Need help on my L88 clone (with EFI) build
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Need help on my L88 clone (with EFI) build
I've been working on finishing up a C2 that I purchased last year and can't wait to at least get the engine fired up and take her down the road for the first time. When I purchased the car, the car didn't have anything in the interior but came with an excellent paint job with gorgeous fender flares, and a fully balanced and blueprinted BBC under an L88 hood setup. During the course of the last few months, I decided to swap out the Barry Grant carb w/ an EFI unit and ended up with pretty much what you see here...
With the Bow-tie nitrous block and forged internals, the engine should handle 900 HP easily but there's no room to add force induction easily under the L88 functioning hood. Want to keep the L88 cold air induction hood as much as possible, I started looking at nitrous systems and found the plate system to be easiest to install but would add too much height to the EFI throttle body and won't clear the hood while the port injected systems are complex and difficult to install and I have a feeling those nitrous nozzles sticking out in the middle of each air intake runners has got to impede airflow to some degree when nitrous is not being used which is most of the time. So I started thinking what if I could find a 2.5" or 3" dropped base to make up w/ the lost space taken up by the nitrous plate??? The issues now is the deepest drop base out there is the one L88 base that I already have so I wonder if there's anyone out there that do custom dropped bases? Or did any of you tried to run taller intake manifolds under the L88 hood and had to deal the same clearance issues? Any advise or comments would be greatly appreciated.
With the Bow-tie nitrous block and forged internals, the engine should handle 900 HP easily but there's no room to add force induction easily under the L88 functioning hood. Want to keep the L88 cold air induction hood as much as possible, I started looking at nitrous systems and found the plate system to be easiest to install but would add too much height to the EFI throttle body and won't clear the hood while the port injected systems are complex and difficult to install and I have a feeling those nitrous nozzles sticking out in the middle of each air intake runners has got to impede airflow to some degree when nitrous is not being used which is most of the time. So I started thinking what if I could find a 2.5" or 3" dropped base to make up w/ the lost space taken up by the nitrous plate??? The issues now is the deepest drop base out there is the one L88 base that I already have so I wonder if there's anyone out there that do custom dropped bases? Or did any of you tried to run taller intake manifolds under the L88 hood and had to deal the same clearance issues? Any advise or comments would be greatly appreciated.
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks Mike, I have March Performance's Style Track serpentine system but the system definitely is not a plug and play type install. Machining was off, instructions were off, etc. but it wasn't easy to find a system that would clear the front cross member of the car.
Here's a picture of the car sitting next to my other '67.
Here's the tank before it went into the car...
Here's the interior with blue LED lights,
Here's a picture of the car sitting next to my other '67.
Here's the tank before it went into the car...
Here's the interior with blue LED lights,
#4
Race Director
Member Since: Jan 2000
Location: Corsicana, Tx
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2020 C2 of the Year - Modified Winner
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Universal Spinners makes some excellent drop base air cleaners.
JIM
JIM
#5
Instructor
Very nice. How did you route the passenger side tank strap. I am installing a new tank now and that strap goes right across the new fuel gauge sender unit. also I think that if you have a vented gas cap you wont need that roll over vent on the new pump (?).
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
I wasn't sure if that one tiny hole in our gas cap was sufficient as vent as that one tiny hole wasn't designed for FI system w/ a return line back into the tank, so I went ahead and installed the breather vent w/ the roll over ball valve just to be safe.
#8
Racer
Thread Starter
We have the same setup. Mine is the Fitech Go EFI 4 Power Adder too and I'm using the factory fuel line as the return line back to the tank, this way I only need to run one new line (Summit Racing 3/8 braided SS line) from the tank to the engine bay. If you run into issues w/ the install or have questions, feel free to PM any time.
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Larry21556 (05-02-2016)
#9
Instructor
Thanks for the help. I am installing the Fitech with Tanks Inc tomorrow and hadn't opened the strap package. I only have a 335 HP motor so I doubt I will have the fuel demands that you will. I will let you know how it works out with out the additional vent. Good tip on the fuel return line.
#10
Race Director
Don't do port nitrous, use central nitrous and gas nozzles in the middle of the floor of the intake under the T-body.
That just two nozzles in a single plane manifold and four nozzles in a dual plane manifold.
Doug
That just two nozzles in a single plane manifold and four nozzles in a dual plane manifold.
Doug
#11
Racer
Thread Starter
Sorry for my ignorance Doug as I've never seen nitrous done the way you described it and yes it would then add nitrous to the system without adding height which is what I'm after. Where can I read more about the setup?
#12
Race Director
That was the least expensive stealthy way to do it back in 1979.
Under the intake and fog into the bottom of the plenum.
Stealth individual port nitrous was for people that had more money.
I would just talk to any of your nitrous suppliers, though I am sure most of their applications are for port EFI now on modern cars, I am sure they have kit for it.
Doug
Doug
Under the intake and fog into the bottom of the plenum.
Stealth individual port nitrous was for people that had more money.
I would just talk to any of your nitrous suppliers, though I am sure most of their applications are for port EFI now on modern cars, I am sure they have kit for it.
Doug
Doug
#13
Race Director
If you are just trying to avoid height and not hide the NO2, you can go into the sides of the manifold underneath the T-body. Much easier installation that way.
The NO2 suppliers should have nozzles for either way I mentioned. They probably also have the lines and fitting you need. Hard Lines will have to be custom bent.
Doug
The NO2 suppliers should have nozzles for either way I mentioned. They probably also have the lines and fitting you need. Hard Lines will have to be custom bent.
Doug
#14
Racer
Thread Starter
I also found this top of carb setup that may work without drilling into the intake manifold. It's great that there are so many options out there now vs back in 1987 when I had it on car. Here's what I'm talking about.
#15
Race Director
Dunno what you planned for wiring, but what i did, was:
I had a master on/off switch under the dash, a first gear lock out switch that kept the circuit from completing in first gear,and a TH400 kickdown switch for a '66 BB Impala that mounts to the carb base, so the system would only turn on in second of higher gear, and when the throttle was mashed to the floor.
You just cruised around with the system armed,a nd you didn't have to think about anything other than steering, shifting and flooring the loud pedal.
No shifter mounted buttons or anything.
Doug
I had a master on/off switch under the dash, a first gear lock out switch that kept the circuit from completing in first gear,and a TH400 kickdown switch for a '66 BB Impala that mounts to the carb base, so the system would only turn on in second of higher gear, and when the throttle was mashed to the floor.
You just cruised around with the system armed,a nd you didn't have to think about anything other than steering, shifting and flooring the loud pedal.
No shifter mounted buttons or anything.
Doug