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Got the 67 started and ready to do a little driving. The amp gauge hasn't worked for a long time (needle stays on zero no matter what). Decided to check voltage at battery------not charging.
Took the cover off the original regulator and used a tooth pick to close the field relay. Small spark and voltage went up to 13.5 at the battery.
Bought new solid state regulator and hooked it up. No charge. Hooked original regulator back up and closed the field relay and it charges.
Here's the circuit diagram from the 1967 GM service manual:
I did some voltage checks with the ignition turned on, but engine not running. I have battery voltage at terminal 3, but not 4 (horn works).
Do I have a switch problem?
Could the non-working amp meter (note the name used in the GM manual ) be the cause.
The engine does start and run fine, but I don't want to keep charging the battery after every time I use it.
The battery gauge is fed by 2 12v feeds - one from the starter solenoid and the other from the horn really bus bar. Both of these feeds have a fuse link. They run thru the bulkhead connectors under the brake master cylinder.
With battery connected you should measure with VOM each of the feeds at the back of the battery gauge. Ground one lead and with the positive lead measure each of the 2 wires behind the gauge. Each one should read 12v.
I suspect that your battery gauge is either disconnected or its bad since the needle does not move.
The battery gauge is a galvanometer that measures the differential voltage between the horn relay and starter. (which represents the charging circuit and the battery). The battery gauge operation will have no effect on the charging system whatsoever.
The test you did on the regulator would indicate that you may have either a wiring issue or possibly the alternator not signaling the regulator correctly. Keep us posted.
The battery gauge is fed by 2 12v feeds - one from the starter solenoid and the other from the horn really bus bar. Both of these feeds have a fuse link. They run thru the bulkhead connectors under the brake master cylinder.
With battery connected you should measure with VOM each of the feeds at the back of the battery gauge. Ground one lead and with the positive lead measure each of the 2 wires behind the gauge. Each one should read 12v.
I suspect that your battery gauge is either disconnected or its bad since the needle does not move.
The battery gauge is a galvanometer that measures the differential voltage between the horn relay and starter. (which represents the charging circuit and the battery). The battery gauge operation will have no effect on the charging system whatsoever.
The test you did on the regulator would indicate that you may have either a wiring issue or possibly the alternator not signaling the regulator correctly. Keep us posted.
Thanks for the info, but I'm not really concerned about the amp gauge unless it could be the cause of the charging system not working.
Check all the wiring to the regulator plug and the F/R terminal plug to the alternator. On my '65 the blue wire to the F/R plug had the copper conductor break completely open inside the wire insulation, which was completely undamaged so the wire break was invisible. I got lucky and saw small sparks through the blue plastic insulation when I jiggled the wires to the connector. A quick wire splice; problem solved.
If you were wondering whether that dang car was jinxed, sometime after the blue wire incident, the alternator just lost its "oomph." It would charge, but not well at idle and the max output seemed to have dropped a lot. One of the three terminal lugs for the stator coil broke off at the end of the wire connection to the stator coil.
Sometimes troubleshooting these things takes a lot of patience and good understanding of how the components work.
First a couple of thank you's. One to Plaidside above whose trouble shooting guide helped a bunch.
The second is to JohnZ whose old thread helped me get the ignition switch out. The GM service manual says to have the key in the "Off" position. That didn't work. Found John's thread and it said to turn the key to the "Acc" position. That worked.
Long story. I had the alternator checked-----it was OK. Then checked continuity of the wires from the alternator to the VR. All good. Used Plaidside's trouble shooting guide and found that, with the key on, there wasn't proper voltage at VR terminal 4. Checked continuity of the wire from #4 to the firewall connector. That was OK. Pulled switch (thanks again John) and checked it. It was OK. Cleaned out the firewall connectors with some electrical cleaner, and put things back together.
Walla--------------system was not only charging but the ammeter was now working!!!!!
I wrote an article on charging systems, understanding and testing.
Send me your email address and I will send a copy.
Joe
Could you please send me your charging systems, understanding and testing guide. I am having problems with my 67 charging the battery.
Thank you, fred fjmann13@gmail.com
[QUOTE=Redd Fox;1601974524]Could you please send me your charging systems, understanding and testing guide. I am having problems with my 67 charging the battery.
Thank you, fred/QUOTE]
I had a similar problem in my C2 from '67, the alternator did not charge. I changed the alternator, no positive result, I changed the voltage regulator- no result. Finally i found the problem. The 4 contacts of the regulator did not have a good contact and after polishing the contacts, the alternator charged.
To control the charging I installed a separate voltage gauge and as long as it shows 14,4 V, I can be sure that the alternator works.
05-03-2016, 12:43 AM
voltage regulator/charging problem
) be the cause.
