need advice on rebuilding a 327 in 65
05-03-2016, 01:19 AM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
need advice on rebuilding a 327 in 65
after getting this 327 all tuned up and running again I am leaning towards a rebuild. the numbers match and it was a 250 horsepower car in 1965 but now has some aftermarket stuff like hooker headers and edelbrock intake and holley 600 carb. the engine was not driven for about 5 years when u got the car earlier this year and I am not sure if it has been bored already and touched inside. I am noticing a little noise like its only a matter of time until something lets go- first start of the day when cold especially but then gets quiet and a mechanic said it almost sounds like pistons ( forget his words clapping in there ) I wanted him to adjust the lifters or something and he took a dr s scope and listened for this noise I notice when I start car cold. i should do a compression test first i guess too and maybe valve adjustment and check timing chain.
OR rip it out and this is my question what do you guys recommend to rebuild it ? which cam, do what to heads and pistons i guess will be determined when it gets taken apart to see the bore. I have never had an engine rebuilt before so want to know what to ask for and from members who have and had success with a reliable rebuild and yet nice sounding engine. maybe bump the horsepower up to a 365 if possible and how much can i expect to spend ?? Are there any no no s things not to do. thanks members i just think maybe it should be my next step before this engine blows a rod or something the way i drive.
OR rip it out and this is my question what do you guys recommend to rebuild it ? which cam, do what to heads and pistons i guess will be determined when it gets taken apart to see the bore. I have never had an engine rebuilt before so want to know what to ask for and from members who have and had success with a reliable rebuild and yet nice sounding engine. maybe bump the horsepower up to a 365 if possible and how much can i expect to spend ?? Are there any no no s things not to do. thanks members i just think maybe it should be my next step before this engine blows a rod or something the way i drive.
05-03-2016, 03:55 AM
#2
Le Mans Master
If your engine was built with Forged Pistons, which are accepted to be the very best, many builders would assemble them with pretty loose clearances. Some of these were designed to run at .005 clearance while stock cast pistons could run at .0015 clearance.
The only negative to the forged piston was the cold start up piston slap. Piston Rattle. Sounded a little like lifter tapping but softer and much faster tapping.
As soon as the combustion heat warmed the piston they would grow a little and the noise went away. Usually 15 to 20 seconds after cold start up.
My 2001 GMC Denali with the 6.0L had this issue factory stock. Most modern engines have better engineering and you never hear piston rattle any more but I bet more than half of the Forged Piston Engine Corvette cars on this forum will report cold start piston rattle is normal and a badge of honor telling people you have high performance pistons.
With piston rattle it may not show at all if it is Summer Heat on start up and it may rattle longer if you start in the cold of winter. It is all about getting piston heat to grow the piston and close the piston to cylinder wall clearance down eliminating your rattle.
Piston Rattle is fast because you have 8 pistons all making the same noise at once.
With the modern CNC controlled machines used today to build pistons the manufacturers can build a forged piston that will not rattle cold but I don't think this technology happened with Forged pistons till about 1998 and much as 10 years later with some manufacturers.
In the 60's if you had forged pistons you had piston slap on cold start. It was and is Normal. Hope this helps.
If you want to rebuild you need to come up with your list of wants:
Balanced? Always a good upgrade but adds $200-$250
Is your crankshaft good or will it need to be turned?
Forged Pistons or Cast?
Stock Rings or Performance Rings? I want a Moly ring on Ductile Iron not Cast iron for the top ring. Costs $50 more but offers a lot of protection.
Will your block be Bored?
Torque Plate Honed?
Line Bored?
Decked?
Zero Decked?
Are you having the cam degreed in?
Are you upgrading to a Roller Camshaft? Extra $500
Using your rods or new rods? Add ARP Rod bolts, good insurance, reconditioning rods would be $100 plus $40 for the ARP bolts or most new rods come with ARP rod bolts installed. Less than $300
Using your heads or aftermarket? Aftermarket heads will add $1,000 to 1,800 but can add 40-60 HP.
If using your heads do you plan to have them ported or polished for more flow?
Head rebuild both heads $400, with porting could be $800+.
To hit 365 HP with a 327 you will need good parts that can spin safe to 6,500 or you will come up short on power and reliability. Not a problem and certainly can be done.
Some of your 250 HP internals would be the same for a 365 HP and could be used.
A simple rebuild to factory stock could be $1,750 + or - $200
Every step up costs a little more.
Stock cam may be $50 where a performance cam may be $200.
Same is true for Oil Pump, Timing set etc.
Cheap Gasket set might be $40 and Fel-Pro $90
I always build an engine so I know each piece and part's quality but I use local machine shops for the necessary machine work.
A local shop would make a package deal that should include cleaning all your engine parts, including the manifold, oil pan, valve covers and timing cover plus assembly of the engine.
If you have them assemble as part of a package deal you will normally get a warranty and the cost is almost identical to you building the engine plus if they do it you get warranty, if you build it there is no warranty except to say the machine work was done to spec. If you build the engine you take on the risk. ( I still build mine, call me stupid )
Hope this helps.
PS: I am not a fan of crate engines unless I know the builder, the machine tools he owns, and the exact list of parts to be used in my build.
I also want to know:
What Cylinder finish is used
What clearance Piston to Wall
What clearance for Rod and Main bearings
A proper rebuild today will use zero oil, have zero piston slap, have great oil pressure at idle and at RPM and last a very long time.
Mark
The only negative to the forged piston was the cold start up piston slap. Piston Rattle. Sounded a little like lifter tapping but softer and much faster tapping.
As soon as the combustion heat warmed the piston they would grow a little and the noise went away. Usually 15 to 20 seconds after cold start up.
My 2001 GMC Denali with the 6.0L had this issue factory stock. Most modern engines have better engineering and you never hear piston rattle any more but I bet more than half of the Forged Piston Engine Corvette cars on this forum will report cold start piston rattle is normal and a badge of honor telling people you have high performance pistons.
With piston rattle it may not show at all if it is Summer Heat on start up and it may rattle longer if you start in the cold of winter. It is all about getting piston heat to grow the piston and close the piston to cylinder wall clearance down eliminating your rattle.
Piston Rattle is fast because you have 8 pistons all making the same noise at once.
With the modern CNC controlled machines used today to build pistons the manufacturers can build a forged piston that will not rattle cold but I don't think this technology happened with Forged pistons till about 1998 and much as 10 years later with some manufacturers.
In the 60's if you had forged pistons you had piston slap on cold start. It was and is Normal. Hope this helps.
If you want to rebuild you need to come up with your list of wants:
Balanced? Always a good upgrade but adds $200-$250
Is your crankshaft good or will it need to be turned?
Forged Pistons or Cast?
Stock Rings or Performance Rings? I want a Moly ring on Ductile Iron not Cast iron for the top ring. Costs $50 more but offers a lot of protection.
Will your block be Bored?
Torque Plate Honed?
Line Bored?
Decked?
Zero Decked?
Are you having the cam degreed in?
Are you upgrading to a Roller Camshaft? Extra $500
Using your rods or new rods? Add ARP Rod bolts, good insurance, reconditioning rods would be $100 plus $40 for the ARP bolts or most new rods come with ARP rod bolts installed. Less than $300
Using your heads or aftermarket? Aftermarket heads will add $1,000 to 1,800 but can add 40-60 HP.
If using your heads do you plan to have them ported or polished for more flow?
Head rebuild both heads $400, with porting could be $800+.
To hit 365 HP with a 327 you will need good parts that can spin safe to 6,500 or you will come up short on power and reliability. Not a problem and certainly can be done.
Some of your 250 HP internals would be the same for a 365 HP and could be used.
A simple rebuild to factory stock could be $1,750 + or - $200
Every step up costs a little more.
Stock cam may be $50 where a performance cam may be $200.
Same is true for Oil Pump, Timing set etc.
Cheap Gasket set might be $40 and Fel-Pro $90
I always build an engine so I know each piece and part's quality but I use local machine shops for the necessary machine work.
A local shop would make a package deal that should include cleaning all your engine parts, including the manifold, oil pan, valve covers and timing cover plus assembly of the engine.
If you have them assemble as part of a package deal you will normally get a warranty and the cost is almost identical to you building the engine plus if they do it you get warranty, if you build it there is no warranty except to say the machine work was done to spec. If you build the engine you take on the risk. ( I still build mine, call me stupid )
Hope this helps.
PS: I am not a fan of crate engines unless I know the builder, the machine tools he owns, and the exact list of parts to be used in my build.
I also want to know:
What Cylinder finish is used
What clearance Piston to Wall
What clearance for Rod and Main bearings
A proper rebuild today will use zero oil, have zero piston slap, have great oil pressure at idle and at RPM and last a very long time.
Mark
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easyriderknucklehead (05-03-2016)
05-03-2016, 08:38 AM
#3
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Nov 2015
Location: Really Central IL Illinois
Posts: 5,239
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If your engine was built with Forged Pistons, which are accepted to be the very best, many builders would assemble them with pretty loose clearances. Some of these were designed to run at .005 clearance while stock cast pistons could run at .0015 clearance.
The only negative to the forged piston was the cold start up piston slap. Piston Rattle. Sounded a little like lifter tapping but softer and much faster tapping.
As soon as the combustion heat warmed the piston they would grow a little and the noise went away. Usually 15 to 20 seconds after cold start up.
My 2001 GMC Denali with the 6.0L had this issue factory stock. Most modern engines have better engineering and you never hear piston rattle any more but I bet more than half of the Forged Piston Engine Corvette cars on this forum will report cold start piston rattle is normal and a badge of honor telling people you have high performance pistons.
With piston rattle it may not show at all if it is Summer Heat on start up and it may rattle longer if you start in the cold of winter. It is all about getting piston heat to grow the piston and close the piston to cylinder wall clearance down eliminating your rattle.
Piston Rattle is fast because you have 8 pistons all making the same noise at once.
With the modern CNC controlled machines used today to build pistons the manufacturers can build a forged piston that will not rattle cold but I don't think this technology happened with Forged pistons till about 1998 and much as 10 years later with some manufacturers.
In the 60's if you had forged pistons you had piston slap on cold start. It was and is Normal. Hope this helps.
If you want to rebuild you need to come up with your list of wants:
Balanced? Always a good upgrade but adds $200-$250
Is your crankshaft good or will it need to be turned?
Forged Pistons or Cast?
Stock Rings or Performance Rings? I want a Moly ring on Ductile Iron not Cast iron for the top ring. Costs $50 more but offers a lot of protection.
Will your block be Bored?
Torque Plate Honed?
Line Bored?
Decked?
Zero Decked?
Are you having the cam degreed in?
Are you upgrading to a Roller Camshaft? Extra $500
Using your rods or new rods? Add ARP Rod bolts, good insurance, reconditioning rods would be $100 plus $40 for the ARP bolts or most new rods come with ARP rod bolts installed. Less than $300
Using your heads or aftermarket? Aftermarket heads will add $1,000 to 1,800 but can add 40-60 HP.
If using your heads do you plan to have them ported or polished for more flow?
Head rebuild both heads $400, with porting could be $800+.
To hit 365 HP with a 327 you will need good parts that can spin safe to 6,500 or you will come up short on power and reliability. Not a problem and certainly can be done.
Some of your 250 HP internals would be the same for a 365 HP and could be used.
A simple rebuild to factory stock could be $1,750 + or - $200
Every step up costs a little more.
Stock cam may be $50 where a performance cam may be $200.
Same is true for Oil Pump, Timing set etc.
Cheap Gasket set might be $40 and Fel-Pro $90
I always build an engine so I know each piece and part's quality but I use local machine shops for the necessary machine work.
A local shop would make a package deal that should include cleaning all your engine parts, including the manifold, oil pan, valve covers and timing cover plus assembly of the engine.
If you have them assemble as part of a package deal you will normally get a warranty and the cost is almost identical to you building the engine plus if they do it you get warranty, if you build it there is no warranty except to say the machine work was done to spec. If you build the engine you take on the risk. ( I still build mine, call me stupid )
Hope this helps.
PS: I am not a fan of crate engines unless I know the builder, the machine tools he owns, and the exact list of parts to be used in my build.
I also want to know:
What Cylinder finish is used
What clearance Piston to Wall
What clearance for Rod and Main bearings
A proper rebuild today will use zero oil, have zero piston slap, have great oil pressure at idle and at RPM and last a very long time.
Mark
The only negative to the forged piston was the cold start up piston slap. Piston Rattle. Sounded a little like lifter tapping but softer and much faster tapping.
As soon as the combustion heat warmed the piston they would grow a little and the noise went away. Usually 15 to 20 seconds after cold start up.
My 2001 GMC Denali with the 6.0L had this issue factory stock. Most modern engines have better engineering and you never hear piston rattle any more but I bet more than half of the Forged Piston Engine Corvette cars on this forum will report cold start piston rattle is normal and a badge of honor telling people you have high performance pistons.
With piston rattle it may not show at all if it is Summer Heat on start up and it may rattle longer if you start in the cold of winter. It is all about getting piston heat to grow the piston and close the piston to cylinder wall clearance down eliminating your rattle.
Piston Rattle is fast because you have 8 pistons all making the same noise at once.
With the modern CNC controlled machines used today to build pistons the manufacturers can build a forged piston that will not rattle cold but I don't think this technology happened with Forged pistons till about 1998 and much as 10 years later with some manufacturers.
In the 60's if you had forged pistons you had piston slap on cold start. It was and is Normal. Hope this helps.
If you want to rebuild you need to come up with your list of wants:
Balanced? Always a good upgrade but adds $200-$250
Is your crankshaft good or will it need to be turned?
Forged Pistons or Cast?
Stock Rings or Performance Rings? I want a Moly ring on Ductile Iron not Cast iron for the top ring. Costs $50 more but offers a lot of protection.
Will your block be Bored?
Torque Plate Honed?
Line Bored?
Decked?
Zero Decked?
Are you having the cam degreed in?
Are you upgrading to a Roller Camshaft? Extra $500
Using your rods or new rods? Add ARP Rod bolts, good insurance, reconditioning rods would be $100 plus $40 for the ARP bolts or most new rods come with ARP rod bolts installed. Less than $300
Using your heads or aftermarket? Aftermarket heads will add $1,000 to 1,800 but can add 40-60 HP.
If using your heads do you plan to have them ported or polished for more flow?
Head rebuild both heads $400, with porting could be $800+.
To hit 365 HP with a 327 you will need good parts that can spin safe to 6,500 or you will come up short on power and reliability. Not a problem and certainly can be done.
Some of your 250 HP internals would be the same for a 365 HP and could be used.
A simple rebuild to factory stock could be $1,750 + or - $200
Every step up costs a little more.
Stock cam may be $50 where a performance cam may be $200.
Same is true for Oil Pump, Timing set etc.
Cheap Gasket set might be $40 and Fel-Pro $90
I always build an engine so I know each piece and part's quality but I use local machine shops for the necessary machine work.
A local shop would make a package deal that should include cleaning all your engine parts, including the manifold, oil pan, valve covers and timing cover plus assembly of the engine.
If you have them assemble as part of a package deal you will normally get a warranty and the cost is almost identical to you building the engine plus if they do it you get warranty, if you build it there is no warranty except to say the machine work was done to spec. If you build the engine you take on the risk. ( I still build mine, call me stupid )
Hope this helps.
PS: I am not a fan of crate engines unless I know the builder, the machine tools he owns, and the exact list of parts to be used in my build.
I also want to know:
What Cylinder finish is used
What clearance Piston to Wall
What clearance for Rod and Main bearings
A proper rebuild today will use zero oil, have zero piston slap, have great oil pressure at idle and at RPM and last a very long time.
Mark
Bottom line, run a dry and wet compression check to determine the health of the current engine. Is it using oil? what is the oil pressure? Remove the rod and main bearings one at a time to see if they are sound. Look at the cylinder walls from the bottom side to see if there are any scars. Have the oil tested for metal particles and cut open the oil filter for an inspection. The pros on here can give you more advice.
Good Luck.
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easyriderknucklehead (05-03-2016)
05-03-2016, 09:12 AM
#4
Team Owner
Member Since: Mar 2003
Location: Greenville, Indiana
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If you insist on rebuilding it, I'd suggest you get a crate engine somewhere already built with the power level you desire and a warranty. Sounds like you will be paying someone else anyway and besides, you have a running, original(?) engine so why give that away?
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easyriderknucklehead (05-03-2016)
05-03-2016, 09:24 AM
#5
Team Owner
My 63 came with an Edelbrock intake and the wrong carb (the right stuff was included with the sale separately). It was a trivial matter to recondition the pieces and put them back on the car (headers would be no problem). Not a reason for an engine rebuild by a long shot. Hydraulic lifter V-8s may well make a bit of noise on cold start up after the car has sat for an extended period until the lifters 'pump up'. Again, not a reason for a rebuild. If its REALLY sat for a while you may get a brief rod knock.
All of this is normal stuff not a reason to rip into your otherwise well-running motor. As stated if you want a bump in HP; mothball your original motor and just get a crate engine. A bad rebuild is the worst and a ton of them abound. There is an epic thread on here about a horrible job on a rebuild that another forum member (Donny Brass) had to straighten out.
All of this is normal stuff not a reason to rip into your otherwise well-running motor. As stated if you want a bump in HP; mothball your original motor and just get a crate engine. A bad rebuild is the worst and a ton of them abound. There is an epic thread on here about a horrible job on a rebuild that another forum member (Donny Brass) had to straighten out.
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easyriderknucklehead (05-03-2016)
05-03-2016, 10:26 AM
#6
Drifting
In general, piston 'slap' is a pretty acceptable phenomenon. Loud-ish cold and get much quieter when hot right? In a street car it's really no big deal. If you are shooting for 365 HP from a 250 HP mill...about the only thing you would reuse would be the block and maybe the crankshaft.
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easyriderknucklehead (05-03-2016)
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easyriderknucklehead (05-03-2016)
05-03-2016, 11:39 AM
#8
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2004
Location: altered state
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St. Jude Donor '05
with the others piston slap is nothing to worry about
my 5.3 has it along with the noisy lifter syndrome
Some mornings holy smokes it sounds like a rods coming through the side, embarrassing. Keeps running.
If you use a rebuilder get one you trust, 1-2 man shop
Worked in some larger rebuilder shops , crate factories etc.
"Rebuilt"....they really arent, scary what goes out the door.
Basically everything gets reused unless its broken and if it IS new its the cheapest part on the planet. Thats why they are cheap, the warranty is to override your gut feeling for buying a pos
my 5.3 has it along with the noisy lifter syndrome
Some mornings holy smokes it sounds like a rods coming through the side, embarrassing. Keeps running.
If you use a rebuilder get one you trust, 1-2 man shop
Worked in some larger rebuilder shops , crate factories etc.
"Rebuilt"....they really arent, scary what goes out the door.
Basically everything gets reused unless its broken and if it IS new its the cheapest part on the planet. Thats why they are cheap, the warranty is to override your gut feeling for buying a pos
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easyriderknucklehead (05-03-2016)
05-03-2016, 12:06 PM
#9
Le Mans Master
I have been asked to inspect Crate failures several times and found less than stellar work inside. There are crates that are excellent and some are far less so.
On your GM 5.3L I have worked on two with the start up knock and one that finally lost all oil pressure on start up. The first was a 2002 with 150,000 miles. They are known for losing start up oil pressure due to an O Ring getting old and hard on the pick up tube on the oil pump. On this one I dropped the pan and replaced the O ring and a new pan gasket only. It was 75% better but if I let it sit for more than 3 days it would knock on cold start for a few seconds. I suspect the factory oil pump does not pick up oil on cold start as well as a new Oil Pump. These are front mount Geroter pumps on the LS Engines.
The second one was a friends 2005 5.3L with 250,000 miles, it knocked for over a year on cold start then one morning it would not pick up oil pressure at all.
On this one we came in from the front pulled the oil pump and replaced the pump and the O ring. Used a Melling M295 pump. On first cold start after assembly it started quiet with 60 lbs of oil pressure. It has started quiet ever since. 60 lbs cold and 45 lbs hot idle 60 psi hot above 1,500 RPM.
I know because he texts me a message with a picture of his oil pressure about once a week with a smile face. His is now at 270,000 miles and is his work truck.
The third was a 2003 5.3L with 102,000 miles it was just starting to knock on cold start.
Fixed this one from the front with a new oil pump and it has not knocked since.
Piston rattle, my Denali 6.0L had it and it was known to be a common issue. Both of the 5.3L's I have owned did not have piston slap. Luck of the draw but your start up knock can be fixed. As an engine guy I could not listen to that start up knock, it made me crazy. The oil pump change is 6-8 hours of work. Sorry to go off topic.
On your GM 5.3L I have worked on two with the start up knock and one that finally lost all oil pressure on start up. The first was a 2002 with 150,000 miles. They are known for losing start up oil pressure due to an O Ring getting old and hard on the pick up tube on the oil pump. On this one I dropped the pan and replaced the O ring and a new pan gasket only. It was 75% better but if I let it sit for more than 3 days it would knock on cold start for a few seconds. I suspect the factory oil pump does not pick up oil on cold start as well as a new Oil Pump. These are front mount Geroter pumps on the LS Engines.
The second one was a friends 2005 5.3L with 250,000 miles, it knocked for over a year on cold start then one morning it would not pick up oil pressure at all.
On this one we came in from the front pulled the oil pump and replaced the pump and the O ring. Used a Melling M295 pump. On first cold start after assembly it started quiet with 60 lbs of oil pressure. It has started quiet ever since. 60 lbs cold and 45 lbs hot idle 60 psi hot above 1,500 RPM.
I know because he texts me a message with a picture of his oil pressure about once a week with a smile face. His is now at 270,000 miles and is his work truck.
The third was a 2003 5.3L with 102,000 miles it was just starting to knock on cold start.
Fixed this one from the front with a new oil pump and it has not knocked since.
Piston rattle, my Denali 6.0L had it and it was known to be a common issue. Both of the 5.3L's I have owned did not have piston slap. Luck of the draw but your start up knock can be fixed. As an engine guy I could not listen to that start up knock, it made me crazy. The oil pump change is 6-8 hours of work. Sorry to go off topic.
05-03-2016, 12:19 PM
#10
Team Owner
Member Since: Nov 2005
Location: Beach & High Desert Southern California
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No-one has asked what your use for the car is?
Determine your use, then tailor the engine rebuild to benefit the use, or planned use.
Powerglide or 4-speed ( or modern upgrade) ?
Rear end gear?
Tires, size, style?
Cruiser on highways or in town?
Short errand car or long trips?
Restoration in ten years or never?
Canyons for speed or pleasure?
Street light or long quarter speed runs through the gears?
Listen to the radio, or listen to the rpm?
None of these questions did into the internal or options of the engine, and they are as important if not more important. What do you want for the experience when you go for a drive?
Determine your use, then tailor the engine rebuild to benefit the use, or planned use.
Powerglide or 4-speed ( or modern upgrade) ?
Rear end gear?
Tires, size, style?
Cruiser on highways or in town?
Short errand car or long trips?
Restoration in ten years or never?
Canyons for speed or pleasure?
Street light or long quarter speed runs through the gears?
Listen to the radio, or listen to the rpm?
None of these questions did into the internal or options of the engine, and they are as important if not more important. What do you want for the experience when you go for a drive?
05-03-2016, 12:24 PM
#11
Racer
Thread Starter
nice advice WESTLOTORN very detailed and something I will print and bring to a fellow I went to a car club with yesterday who builds engines and ask for exactly that as he has asked me if I was going to rebuild it . I will do a compression test and just want to know how many cranks or how long on each cylinder (turning over to get proper number ) I will then post and you guys said wet and dry so the wet I guess do I just put oil down the cylinder and how much. I think that will check the valves seal or rings right. thanks guys awesome help here !
05-03-2016, 12:32 PM
#12
Racer
Thread Starter
thanks can I get some details on proper way to do compression test (how long do I crank it or how ) I know take all the pugs out and also you guys mentioned do a wet test too so is that to see if rings seal or check valves and how much oil down cylinder do I put like a few drops or 50 ml . And awesome write up on engine rebuild suggestions very detailed I will print and bring it when its time to machine shop and insist on doing this once and right . grateful for all the help here I will post my compression tests after I do this first.
05-03-2016, 12:46 PM
#13
Le Mans Master
Pull all spark plugs, tie the throttle all the way open. Test one cylinder, I crank it for a few seconds, you hear the compression bump each time it hits. After 3 or 4 hits you see your gauge is not going up anymore then I record the finding by cylinder number. 1 - 8.
If you are good on all 8 no need for a wet test. Good would be within 15 pounds on all 8.
If you are low in a cylinder you can add a teaspoon of oil and re test. If compression comes up you have bad rings, if it does not improve the leak is in your valves. Maybe burned but maybe just out of adjustment.
If you are good on all 8 no need for a wet test. Good would be within 15 pounds on all 8.
If you are low in a cylinder you can add a teaspoon of oil and re test. If compression comes up you have bad rings, if it does not improve the leak is in your valves. Maybe burned but maybe just out of adjustment.
05-03-2016, 04:18 PM
#14
Team Owner
No-one has asked what your use for the car is?
Determine your use, then tailor the engine rebuild to benefit the use, or planned use.
Powerglide or 4-speed ( or modern upgrade) ?
Rear end gear?
Tires, size, style?
Cruiser on highways or in town?
Short errand car or long trips?
Restoration in ten years or never?
Canyons for speed or pleasure?
Street light or long quarter speed runs through the gears?
Listen to the radio, or listen to the rpm?
None of these questions did into the internal or options of the engine, and they are as important if not more important. What do you want for the experience when you go for a drive?
Determine your use, then tailor the engine rebuild to benefit the use, or planned use.
Powerglide or 4-speed ( or modern upgrade) ?
Rear end gear?
Tires, size, style?
Cruiser on highways or in town?
Short errand car or long trips?
Restoration in ten years or never?
Canyons for speed or pleasure?
Street light or long quarter speed runs through the gears?
Listen to the radio, or listen to the rpm?
None of these questions did into the internal or options of the engine, and they are as important if not more important. What do you want for the experience when you go for a drive?
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 05-03-2016 at 04:33 PM.
05-03-2016, 04:53 PM
#15
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Nov 2015
Location: Really Central IL Illinois
Posts: 5,239
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1,044 Posts
Pull all spark plugs, tie the throttle all the way open. Test one cylinder, I crank it for a few seconds, you hear the compression bump each time it hits. After 3 or 4 hits you see your gauge is not going up anymore then I record the finding by cylinder number. 1 - 8.
If you are good on all 8 no need for a wet test. Good would be within 15 pounds on all 8.
If you are low in a cylinder you can add a teaspoon of oil and re test. If compression comes up you have bad rings, if it does not improve the leak is in your valves. Maybe burned but maybe just out of adjustment.
If you are good on all 8 no need for a wet test. Good would be within 15 pounds on all 8.
If you are low in a cylinder you can add a teaspoon of oil and re test. If compression comes up you have bad rings, if it does not improve the leak is in your valves. Maybe burned but maybe just out of adjustment.
When you are done, don't be surprised to get a little blue smoke out of the exhaust for a while.
05-03-2016, 09:34 PM
#16
Racer
Thread Starter
I just did a compression test and cylinders 1- 3 - 5 -7 are all 150 on the other side I got cylinders 2 - 100 , 4 - 140 , 6 - 100 , 8 - 150 I then put some oil into 2 and 6 and got 150 and then noticed the guage got plugged when re-try from the oil I think as it was spitting out the release air button on release. and got 0 reading and quit. so I guess as mentioned above I got 2 bad rings on piston and will probably need a rebuild I guess . that sucks before summer.
05-03-2016, 09:40 PM
#17
Racer
Thread Starter
I would like a reliable engine good for long 1200 km drive on a weekend or day that yet when I get to the city I can shake rattle and roll I guess and I am running radial tires on 15 inch rims and it handles like a 1965 so nothing too crazy right a cruiser. And of course a lumpy cam for the red lights to keep the mustangs guessing be good.
05-03-2016, 10:02 PM
#18
Burning Brakes
With those compression #'s I would drive the car another 3 to 5 years and then retest it ! That engine just barely fits the description " if it ain't broke, don't fix it" .
05-03-2016, 11:55 PM
#19
Racer
Thread Starter
should I have been using a special guage for wet test and did I screw this one up with the oil , its hanging to drain now !!
05-04-2016, 01:46 AM
#20
Le Mans Master
#2 and #6 are a light on compression, if this engine has been sitting a lot put some miles on it and maybe the rings will seat again.
On the negative side if someone has been running regular pump gas and the timing was not right you might have some broken top rings in there.
Run it, it will either get better or get worse and then you will know.
On the negative side if someone has been running regular pump gas and the timing was not right you might have some broken top rings in there.
Run it, it will either get better or get worse and then you will know.
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easyriderknucklehead (05-04-2016)