Help with 63 find
#41
Team Owner
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Two MAJOR issues. 1) That is NOT a GM-issued body trim tag - they were aluminum, not polished stainless steel, and they never had the car's VIN number on them - it's a bogus reproduction that doesn't match the car's configuration anyway. 2) Not having the original GM-issued (and welded) VIN plate is the "kiss of death" for resale, and until you can get a State-issued VIN for it, the car can't be registered or driven.
#42
Good input! I am bummed but not panicked. I know the Lord is in control.
I talked to FIL tonight and he said the guy he bought it from way back when- had raced it. He said it probably wasn't the original engine and something about 2 barrel also. He said he had the VIN plate made himself for $100 because it was missing.
He said he had the exhaust, pipes, steering column, wheel and light motors replaced back then...most with parts from the Chickasha, OK swap meet.
He didn't know anything about a wreck or paint or anything shady. He simply enjoyed driving the car and looking for parts with his 11 year old daughter (my wife) after his wife/her mom died young. It sort of gave him a purpose.
Someone said the black dash didn't match the red seats? Maybe the previous owner replaced the dash and had no vin on the replacement? Just a shot in the dark. It has been titled and registered for the entire 30 + years the FIL has had it. I am not sure what the corvette registry is.
At this point I feel more stuck than this morning :-) I would love to sell this for him/us for whatever its worth, being totally honest in the process. I guess now it is a matter of taking it to the mechanic or not.
I really appreciate y'all. Thank you. Keep the ideas coming.
I talked to FIL tonight and he said the guy he bought it from way back when- had raced it. He said it probably wasn't the original engine and something about 2 barrel also. He said he had the VIN plate made himself for $100 because it was missing.
He said he had the exhaust, pipes, steering column, wheel and light motors replaced back then...most with parts from the Chickasha, OK swap meet.
He didn't know anything about a wreck or paint or anything shady. He simply enjoyed driving the car and looking for parts with his 11 year old daughter (my wife) after his wife/her mom died young. It sort of gave him a purpose.
Someone said the black dash didn't match the red seats? Maybe the previous owner replaced the dash and had no vin on the replacement? Just a shot in the dark. It has been titled and registered for the entire 30 + years the FIL has had it. I am not sure what the corvette registry is.
At this point I feel more stuck than this morning :-) I would love to sell this for him/us for whatever its worth, being totally honest in the process. I guess now it is a matter of taking it to the mechanic or not.
I really appreciate y'all. Thank you. Keep the ideas coming.
#43
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St. Jude Donor '12-'13-'14-'15, '19
That's about a $35,000 car. Convertible 63's unfortunately, are far down the food chain in terms of desirability because they don't have disk brakes and hard to find one year only parts.
#44
Le Mans Master
Good input! I am bummed but not panicked. I know the Lord is in control.
I talked to FIL tonight and he said the guy he bought it from way back when- had raced it. He said it probably wasn't the original engine and something about 2 barrel also. He said he had the VIN plate made himself for $100 because it was missing.
He said he had the exhaust, pipes, steering column, wheel and light motors replaced back then...most with parts from the Chickasha, OK swap meet.
He didn't know anything about a wreck or paint or anything shady. He simply enjoyed driving the car and looking for parts with his 11 year old daughter (my wife) after his wife/her mom died young. It sort of gave him a purpose.
Someone said the black dash didn't match the red seats? Maybe the previous owner replaced the dash and had no vin on the replacement? Just a shot in the dark. It has been titled and registered for the entire 30 + years the FIL has had it. I am not sure what the corvette registry is.
At this point I feel more stuck than this morning :-) I would love to sell this for him/us for whatever its worth, being totally honest in the process. I guess now it is a matter of taking it to the mechanic or not.
I really appreciate y'all. Thank you. Keep the ideas coming.
I talked to FIL tonight and he said the guy he bought it from way back when- had raced it. He said it probably wasn't the original engine and something about 2 barrel also. He said he had the VIN plate made himself for $100 because it was missing.
He said he had the exhaust, pipes, steering column, wheel and light motors replaced back then...most with parts from the Chickasha, OK swap meet.
He didn't know anything about a wreck or paint or anything shady. He simply enjoyed driving the car and looking for parts with his 11 year old daughter (my wife) after his wife/her mom died young. It sort of gave him a purpose.
Someone said the black dash didn't match the red seats? Maybe the previous owner replaced the dash and had no vin on the replacement? Just a shot in the dark. It has been titled and registered for the entire 30 + years the FIL has had it. I am not sure what the corvette registry is.
At this point I feel more stuck than this morning :-) I would love to sell this for him/us for whatever its worth, being totally honest in the process. I guess now it is a matter of taking it to the mechanic or not.
I really appreciate y'all. Thank you. Keep the ideas coming.
#45
Safety Car
Right up front, I know next to nothing about Corvettes. That said, please don't get discouraged, there is and always will be a market for that car. A million dollars? No, but don't let it go to a low baller. Get a reputable appraisal, and don't get ripped off. When a car is "less desirable" it doesn't mean worthless. Take your time, do some research, get in touch with a local car or corvette club, and relax. It sat in a garage since 88, so a year or two more won't hurt it. Sometimes we get so caught up in what is wrong that we miss everything that's right. Take it slow, and good luck.
Kind of a side note, when I was young I was selling a beater pick up, asking for $800. Had a guy walk around a 15 year old work truck and keep tell me what was wrong with it. I told him they sell new ones all day long downtown, then threw him off the property. Very satisfying. Ended up selling it the next day for $750.
Kind of a side note, when I was young I was selling a beater pick up, asking for $800. Had a guy walk around a 15 year old work truck and keep tell me what was wrong with it. I told him they sell new ones all day long downtown, then threw him off the property. Very satisfying. Ended up selling it the next day for $750.
#46
Team Owner
I wouldn't lay under a bus because of what you've heard here....FIL passion for the car aside; some are just worth more in parts than drivers. I once told a forum member on here he had paid way too much for a ragged out split window coupe. He educated me on what he sold the parts for and he was way over in the positive column. I learned something.
If the VIN/Trim Tag and other condition issues push this car down in the cellar - its something to consider.
If the VIN/Trim Tag and other condition issues push this car down in the cellar - its something to consider.
#47
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1592169944
gold 63 didn't have anything on his data base trim tag didn't line up with build date time to check the frame
gold 63 didn't have anything on his data base trim tag didn't line up with build date time to check the frame
Last edited by rtruman; 05-08-2016 at 11:54 AM.
#48
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Feb 2011
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Two MAJOR issues. 1) That is NOT a GM-issued body trim tag - they were aluminum, not polished stainless steel, and they never had the car's VIN number on them - it's a bogus reproduction that doesn't match the car's configuration anyway. 2) Not having the original GM-issued (and welded) VIN plate is the "kiss of death" for resale, and until you can get a State-issued VIN for it, the car can't be registered or driven.
JohnZ is a very smart man........please read his post carefully.
To sell this car for any reasonable amount of money, it may be necessary for you to get a VIN number issued by the State of Oklahoma.
Best of luck to you and your FIL
#49
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What scares me the most is the OP said it was a former race car then turned into a street car by is FIL. I'm only guessing is the orginal vin and trim tag were removed and sold when the car was a race car If that is true there might be another 63 out there with this cars vin number that is already issued a registration in anther state. So I would be curious if the OP can find the vin number on the frame and what that matches
#50
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What scares me the most is the OP said it was a former race car then turned into a street car by is FIL. I'm only guessing is the orginal vin and trim tag were removed and sold when the car was a race car If that is true there might be another 63 out there with this cars vin number that is already issued a registration in anther state. So I would be curious if the OP can find the vin number on the frame and what that matches
As has been said, this minor detail needs to be worked out before you can consider getting any worthwhile money for the car.
#51
I am confused...the car already has the VIN # on the current Oklahoma title...but what you guys are saying is that it could be wrong?
The VIN would have had to be on the previous owner's title when this current title was issued in early 80s, correct?
Secondly, what I hear everyone saying is that I need to:
1. find the frame number
2. see if it matches the VIN on the remade VIN plate
3. see if that is also the one on the car's Oklahoma title
One poster said to find the frame number I need to:
"There is also a number stamped atop the frame, just above the left rear
shock mount, that is another location for the vehicle serial number. Finding that, however requires removing the LR wheel, cleaning the top of the frame in that area, and probably using a mirror to read the number."
Is this the best way? I wish I could do it without removing the wheel. Thanks!! Happy Mother's Day!
The VIN would have had to be on the previous owner's title when this current title was issued in early 80s, correct?
Secondly, what I hear everyone saying is that I need to:
1. find the frame number
2. see if it matches the VIN on the remade VIN plate
3. see if that is also the one on the car's Oklahoma title
One poster said to find the frame number I need to:
"There is also a number stamped atop the frame, just above the left rear
shock mount, that is another location for the vehicle serial number. Finding that, however requires removing the LR wheel, cleaning the top of the frame in that area, and probably using a mirror to read the number."
Is this the best way? I wish I could do it without removing the wheel. Thanks!! Happy Mother's Day!
#54
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You have an oklahoma title with the vin on it. You are okay. If you have any questions, Go to the registry. Everyones worried about period correct. Do you have the old registration. Go register it in your name. Everything will be fine. Just have you FIL sign the title over to you.
#55
I am confused...the car already has the VIN # on the current Oklahoma title...but what you guys are saying is that it could be wrong?
The VIN would have had to be on the previous owner's title when this current title was issued in early 80s, correct?
Secondly, what I hear everyone saying is that I need to:
1. find the frame number
2. see if it matches the VIN on the remade VIN plate
3. see if that is also the one on the car's Oklahoma title
One poster said to find the frame number I need to:
"There is also a number stamped atop the frame, just above the left rear
shock mount, that is another location for the vehicle serial number. Finding that, however requires removing the LR wheel, cleaning the top of the frame in that area, and probably using a mirror to read the number."
Is this the best way? I wish I could do it without removing the wheel. Thanks!! Happy Mother's Day!
The VIN would have had to be on the previous owner's title when this current title was issued in early 80s, correct?
Secondly, what I hear everyone saying is that I need to:
1. find the frame number
2. see if it matches the VIN on the remade VIN plate
3. see if that is also the one on the car's Oklahoma title
One poster said to find the frame number I need to:
"There is also a number stamped atop the frame, just above the left rear
shock mount, that is another location for the vehicle serial number. Finding that, however requires removing the LR wheel, cleaning the top of the frame in that area, and probably using a mirror to read the number."
Is this the best way? I wish I could do it without removing the wheel. Thanks!! Happy Mother's Day!
#56
Dementer sole survivor
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Yes that is a normal vin
It hasn't been registered on the c2 registry but that only means your father in law hasnt posted it because the registry didnt exist in the 80's
It hasn't been registered on the c2 registry but that only means your father in law hasnt posted it because the registry didnt exist in the 80's
Last edited by Rescue Rogers; 05-08-2016 at 04:05 PM.
#57
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The regrestry means absolutely nothing here. I can guarantee there are more owners of old cars who one don't use the Internet or is afraid to post there vin numbers on the Internet. Then owners who do. Your trim tag is not remotely correct or GM issiued So we have no idea where your FIL got that vin number It could have been pulled from air or it could be the cars actual vin number. I would check the frame vin and hope it matches. If it does I wouldn't worry about it too much. On a side note orginal vin tags where held on by spot welds and sometimes the vin plates fell off. If the the car was a race car then there was no need for a vin and trim tag and those plates are very valuable on the black market for stolen cars. I very well could be making a mountain from a ant hill or just scratching the surface. For your sake I hope I'm wrong
#58
I happen to have my rear tires off so I thought I would post a picture of where the vin number is. The tape with the arrow pointing towards the top of the frame is where the number is. Find the thinest mirror you can find and stick the mirror in this location between the body and frame. You will need a flashlight. Most of the numbers I've seen are stamped lightly so since your frame is rust you may not be able to see it.
#59
This is the kind of stuff that we learn from go picks Putin this in my data bank .
#60
Burning Brakes