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The gas should squirt pretty forcibly if you're jerking on that linkage hard enough.
The choke index line is a general guide. What I do is go to the car on a cold morning...take the air cleaner off, loosen the choke cover screws and hold the accelerator linkage all the way back. I then turn the choke cover until the choke plate barely closes completely -- then back off the slightest amount. Re-tighten the choke cover screws and replace the air cleaner and try it out the next morning.
That usually gets it close enough for a particular climate... The manual will give you precise gaps to adjust the choke but its way too much for Florida and most places I suspect.
I never ever started the car yet shouldn't the chock be closed in the picture its wide open . if so can I do that now its not really cold around 60
I have a similar problem to the OP on my '58 in that I need to crank when cold for about a minute; but my setup has a clear issue - I have no choke mechanism.
I have 2x4 Carter WCFB '56-'58 Chrysler carbs.
Does anybody know if a decent mechanic could retrofit a choke using current parts - Chrysler or Corvette?
When I used to run the 2 X 4 carbs (four different sets), the chokes never did work. The car would start very quickly even at -10*F. Just pump the gas a couple of times, wait a few seconds for the gasoline to vaporize and then crank it to start.
You don't need a choke to start an engine (if you have an accelerator pump) but they're very helpful to keep it running when cold.
Maybe your accelerator pump(s) are not working or weak?
I never ever started the car yet shouldn't the chock be closed in the picture its wide open . if so can I do that now its not really cold around 60
You have to understand on these old carb that you have to 'set the choke'. The choke plate will not close until the throttle has been stabbed sharply once (its all in the owner's manual) !!!
Yes - you could try the choke adjustment procedure I've described above...
You have to understand on these old carb that you have to 'set the choke'. The choke plate will not close until the throttle has been stabbed sharply once (its all in the owner's manual) !!!
Yes - you could try the choke adjustment procedure I've described above...
It does go into fast idle and after it runs for a while then it seems
to get warm I push the pedal fast and it goes down to good idle to engage into gear. But always take a lot of pumping to get it to run.
its like the gas has to work its way to the carb remember reading
on form somewhere where the gas flows back to tank after car sits for a day or two Like the fuel needs a check valve .its smoothing I have been living with since I redid the engine .its all stock set up just like it was in 63 .
The choke adjustment procedure is outlined in the 1963 Corvette shop manual and that may be your only problem.
When you set the choke (cold engine) the choke blade should shut tight and when cranking the engine, a low pressure signal (vacuum) pulls fuel from the booster venturi until the engine starts. That is why it's important the choke blade closes tight.
After the engine starts the choke break (vacuum pull off) opens the blade 1/4" +- and engine manifold vacuum pulls fuel from the idle circuit and the choke opens slowly with exhaust heat.
The manifold vacuum that's created when the engine starts is what pulls fuel from the idle circuit. The venturi vacuum created from cranking a cold engine with a closed choke blade is different but that's the fuel source with the blade closed/cold engine.
You should really get your fresh air rubber line hooked up too - all of these things have a designated purpose....
I have that hose it keeps falling of the metal part that goes into the manifold so I blocked it off I could put the hose back on and stick down into that area
The hard line in the choke cover's sole purpose is to heat up the spring in the cover; the fresh air tube is another part of the choke operation's balancing act -- it feeds WARM 'fresh' air to the choke that is not tainted by exhaust gases (it goes THRU the exhaust manifold!)...and engine vacuum operates the 'pull off' internal piston.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 05-24-2016 at 10:35 AM.
OK - lets not start changing too many variables here - LEAVE your double spring arrangement alone for now - also don't worry about the rubber fresh air line (I mentioned it in passing for future consideration)!!!
BUT, WHEN YOU GET AROUND TO IT.....with the proper metal 'tube' and proper sized hose - it ain't gonna 'fall off'. Mines been on there for 3 years...
Your right I should take baby steps thanks for the tube link
they I will order that take all the good information I have and start with an adjustment first see what going on get the tube setup and go from there if I remember correctly the tube that came out of the intake was gone I will have to research that it inside next to engine hard to see or get to.
Today I need to get to DMV for inspection
while everything is working ,horn blinkers if you know what I mean .
I will get back after that and let you know what I have thanks to all I have the good info now.
Your right I should take baby steps thanks for the tube link
they I will order that take all the good information I have and start with an adjustment first see what going on get the tube setup and go from there if I remember correctly the tube that came out of the intake was gone I will have to research that it inside next to engine hard to see or get to.
Today I need to get to DMV for inspection
while everything is working ,horn blinkers if you know what I mean .
I will get back after that and let you know what I have thanks to all I have the good info now.
One final thought....if the metal part of the fresh air tube is broken off in the exhaust manifold then do a search on here for extraction methods...it can be a bit of a bitch
One final thought....if the metal part of the fresh air tube is broken off in the exhaust manifold then do a search on here for extraction methods...it can be a bit of a bitch
I have to think that missing tube is part of the equation.
05-24-2016, 09:34 AM
