Replacing valve covers ! Adhesive question
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Replacing valve covers ! Adhesive question
So I ordered a new set of aluminum (chrome) covers for my 65. Without the casting defect that ran thru the o on 66/67 vets ... So my question is what kind of adhesive would be best for the gaskets ? Its been a while since i did this .. Thanks .. Joe
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ACCURATE (05-24-2016)
#3
Team Owner
I use Ultra Gray RTV between the cover and gasket - I only use the Felpro cork gaskets (the thicker versions - ask for them at NAPA...IIRC they are 7/32" vs the thinner 5/32").
Slide a little wheel bearing grease or PAM cooking spray along the lip on the cylinder head where the gasket meets the head (NO adhesive on this side)...and snug the covers down. Resnug them after 200 miles or so.
My covers come off regularly for solid lifter adjustment and I get years out of the gaskets with this method.
Slide a little wheel bearing grease or PAM cooking spray along the lip on the cylinder head where the gasket meets the head (NO adhesive on this side)...and snug the covers down. Resnug them after 200 miles or so.
My covers come off regularly for solid lifter adjustment and I get years out of the gaskets with this method.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 05-24-2016 at 09:12 AM.
#4
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Feb 2011
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Permatex #2 is excellent on the valve cover side.
Use a light coating (very light) silicone grease on the head side which will allow you to remove the valve covers easily and re-use the gasket.
Use a light coating (very light) silicone grease on the head side which will allow you to remove the valve covers easily and re-use the gasket.
Last edited by ohiovet; 05-24-2016 at 09:10 AM.
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ACCURATE (05-24-2016)
#5
Race Director
No silicone sealant for me.
Recommend DR REBUILD cork/composition gaskets (very good quality) with #3M Yellow Super Weatherstrip adhesive on the gasket and valve cover surface only. Vaseline on the other side and cylinder head perimeter. Snug hand tight with a 1/4 inch drive ratchet and one-hand only. Retighten after a few heat/cool cycles.
The old MR GASKET cork/composition gaskets were also very good.
Larry
Recommend DR REBUILD cork/composition gaskets (very good quality) with #3M Yellow Super Weatherstrip adhesive on the gasket and valve cover surface only. Vaseline on the other side and cylinder head perimeter. Snug hand tight with a 1/4 inch drive ratchet and one-hand only. Retighten after a few heat/cool cycles.
The old MR GASKET cork/composition gaskets were also very good.
Larry
Last edited by Powershift; 05-24-2016 at 12:38 PM.
#6
Le Mans Master
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Location: Norcal CA
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I use Ultra Gray RTV between the cover and gasket - I only use the Felpro cork gaskets (the thicker versions - ask for them at NAPA...IIRC they are 7/32" vs the thinner 5/32").
Slide a little wheel bearing grease or PAM cooking spray along the lip on the cylinder head where the gasket meets the head (NO adhesive on this side)...and snug the covers down. Resnug them after 200 miles or so.
My covers come off regularly for solid lifter adjustment and I get years out of the gaskets with this method.
Slide a little wheel bearing grease or PAM cooking spray along the lip on the cylinder head where the gasket meets the head (NO adhesive on this side)...and snug the covers down. Resnug them after 200 miles or so.
My covers come off regularly for solid lifter adjustment and I get years out of the gaskets with this method.
#9
Le Mans Master
No silicone sealant for me.
Recommend DR REBUILD cork/composition gaskets (very good quality) with #3M Yellow Super Weatherstrip adhesive on the gasket and valve cover surface only. Vaseline on the other side and cylinder head perimeter. Snug hand tight with a 1/4 inch drive ratchet and one-hand only. Retighten after a few heat/cool cycles.
The old MR GASKET cork/composition gaskets were also very good.
Larry
Recommend DR REBUILD cork/composition gaskets (very good quality) with #3M Yellow Super Weatherstrip adhesive on the gasket and valve cover surface only. Vaseline on the other side and cylinder head perimeter. Snug hand tight with a 1/4 inch drive ratchet and one-hand only. Retighten after a few heat/cool cycles.
The old MR GASKET cork/composition gaskets were also very good.
Larry
#10
Team Owner
Member Since: Feb 2003
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I use Permetex Indian Head shellac to glue my cork gaskets to the covers using close pins to clamp them over night. Install with 1/4 drive ratchet. Works like a charm.
#11
Team Owner
I place the covers on a clean, dead flat surface with a towel over each one and a cinder block on top of the towel overnight... But, I've only been doing it 35 years so my method is clearly not credible
#12
Race Director
I started back in the late 60's when I removed the valve covers and adjusted the valves on the 1969 Z28 every month or so prior to (street) racing on the weekends. Worked then and still works now.
Larry
EDIT: Actually did it this way as early as 1964..................but that was on my early Fords. I won't take credit for it then since it isn't a Chevy.
Last edited by Powershift; 05-24-2016 at 10:10 PM.
#13
Drifting
Whatever works for you
I'm sure everyone's favorite technique works like magic for them. Personally I prefer a Permatex spray on product called "Hi Tack". No unsightly goop oozing around, allows removal without damaging the gasket, and seals beautifully as long as the surfaces are flat. The drawback is it has no gap-filling capability so the valve cover needs to be flat. If Bubba's been torquing the bolts with his 1/2 inch drive breaker bar, it's gonna require some massaging before the oil stops dripping.
#14
Team Owner
Yup - takes at least 1/2 century of experience to glue a piece of cork to a piece of metal..... Ha!
#15
Race Director
Let's just agree tonight that there is more than one acceptable method to this task. The OP can choose whichever he desires.
Larry
#16
Race Director
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I've done hundreds of valve cover gaskets, and with this type of engine, I use no sealer at all with a cork or composite gasket. Just a few dabs of grease between the valve cover and the gasket to hold the gasket in place during the install. That way, there is no sticking and no fuss. I've spent enough hours over the years wire-wheeling the yellow gorilla snot and silicone off of valve covers to know better. The gasket is the seal, not added sealers. Same thing with automatic transmission pans....the yellow 3M is guaranteed to leak and a bear to remove during service. No thanks.
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ACCURATE (05-25-2016)
#17
Team Owner
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I've done hundreds of valve cover gaskets, and with this type of engine, I use no sealer at all with a cork or composite gasket. Just a few dabs of grease between the valve cover and the gasket to hold the gasket in place during the install. That way, there is no sticking and no fuss. I've spent enough hours over the years wire-wheeling the yellow gorilla snot and silicone off of valve covers to know better. The gasket is the seal, not added sealers. Same thing with automatic transmission pans....the yellow 3M is guaranteed to leak and a bear to remove during service. No thanks.
Permatex #2? Those shouldn't own tools.
#19
Le Mans Master
This stuff Rocks... Been around a long time No Mess has a Fuzz ball applicator.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ed...G6saAhe68P8HAQ
You might shop around Locally and find it. Your Hot Rod stores will carry it.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ed...G6saAhe68P8HAQ
You might shop around Locally and find it. Your Hot Rod stores will carry it.
Last edited by Viet Nam Vett; 05-25-2016 at 09:49 PM.
#20
Le Mans Master
But Larry, we have no experience compared to FTF. He's done everything there is to do, better than it's ever been done by anyone else. We all know someone like that. In actuality, they're over compensating for the lack of knowledge and regurgitating what they read on the internet trying to look smart.