Jeht

Started blocking the first coat of slick sand on the frame, will put one more coat and wet sand. What would you apply to the frame BC/CC or single stage spray can?

ChattanoogaJSB

Many opinions on this but if it were mine I would spray it well with epoxy primer- like SPI. It will be be durable and attractive for years to come and not have a greasy sheen. It is rock hard, airtight, and resists contaminants well.

Just if it were mine.

desertpilgrim

I guess it depends on how over-restored you want it to be.

ILBMF

Looks to me like you have it figured out already. I also prefer epoxy primer

1snake

SPI has the best products on the market, I know, I've used most of the others. Here's a pic. of my 65 restoration using their products on the frame.

Jeht

What are you insinuating by over restored? I could have painted my car and not touched the frame, new suit with muddy shoes!

Benton, here is a shot of the frame after I had it sandblasted. I sprayed black epoxy PPG, thought it looked good but didnt know how durable it would be.

ChattanoogaJSB

Sorry Jeht- it has epoxy already then slick sand to make it a little smoother and now you want to topcoat? I think I would once more do epoxy. Still my preference.

I used DP90 from ppg many years ago. They have improved it I believe and it was good back then. Nothing bad to say about it. I do like the SPI.

Roger Walling

I used epoxy primer and DuPont Industrial Imron.
Very slick and chip resistant. Easy to keep clean.
Not NCRS correct but who gives a ----.

Jeht

Thank you. Is this product what you have on the frame in the pic? It looks like a semi rather than a flat color of the PPG epoxy. The color on your frame is what I'm looking for.

64Corvette

I also used DP90 years ago and it has held up great!

DUB

FOR WHAT THIS IS WORTH:

Applying an epoxy primer before the 'slicksand' was a good move. NO DOUBT there!

Be careful of the thickness of your slicksand. Keep in mind you can stack layers and get the metal really slick and smooth...BUT...the downside effect of doing that is that it can chip REALLY EASY...and when you have body ground straps that need to be attached...you need to grind the stuff off to bare steel so you are actually getting a good ground....and then apply a die-electric grease to that area so the steel does not rust.

On top of the slicksand I would apply another coat of the epoxy if I did it that way.

The old school PPG epoxy.... where it is still mixed 1:1 is out there and in a commercial line....or you can use the SPI stuff ( I never had...but it seems to be good stuff) or the DP90LF.....or spray paint it with whatever you choose.

I PERSONALLY do not think PPG IMPROVED on the DP90...I think what they did was design it to comply with EPA stuff and make it so people in the industry would use it. What I used back when the stuff hit the market is NOT what they sell in the mainstream of products today. Going from a 1:1 mix to a 2:1 mix...and then the 402 hardener that came out for immediate mix and shoot.... instead of the 401 which made a person have to wait 30 minutes for the chemicals to induct with each other. I just like the old stuff myself....and I am not saying that the new stuff is crap...because it is not.

DUB

Lotsacubes

Is anything ever done to treat the inside of the rails? Seems like something called POR has been discussed.

ChattanoogaJSB

Eastwood- not my first choice - makes a lot to spray into the rails. I'll bet other sources do too. Maybe someone will chime in. I don't know if the POR 15 guys do or not- but their product is so gross I would probably seek another source.

I agree it would be a shame not to treat the inside!

DUB

Yes...POR-15 can be used but if you do not use their MARINE CLEAN and ACID ETCH...you are wasting your time and money. It will not stick due to NOT being ready for it to stick to the metal.

A messy job ( YES..I AGREE) and if the inside of the frame is a major concern of my customer....I would then now be able to suggest sending the frame off and have it dipped.

DUB

TJefferson2020

Had my frame acid dipped - then sprayed rust inhibitor (don't remember the brand) inside with a long spray attachment. Then shot it with DP90.

11 years later, it still looks good - very durable. In fact I went to strip some of the bumper mounts that were originally finished as above and that DP90 just doesn't come off. Amazing adhesion and durability.

Finish is satin.

Jeht

Decided on the SPI Epoxy primer, followed recommendation and applied 3 coats.

GTOguy

In the industry, rust inhibitor wax is sprayed inside frame rails with a long tube to protect against corrosion. This started in the 1990's. As for me, the very thought of block sanding a frame is absurd. But then, I'm in California and am used to rust free old cars. For me, a spray bomb of semi-gloss chassis paint is fine. Looks appropriate and holds up. Over restored cars do nothing for me.

Jeht

The ONLY way to protect the inside of the frame is stated by DUB in earlier post. The magic wand is not not to protect if you are planning on doing it correct, it needs to be dipped.

What you may find absurd is your personal opinion, you and BUBBA can spray bomb all you want!

Only reason the frame was sanded is to clean up imperfections from a 50 year old car which had been driven over the course of it's life. I'm not on here to get in a pissing/shouting contest war of words, I look for help and advise from fellow enthusiast.

Railroadman

Geez, take a ! GTOguy clearly stated he was expressing his own opinion, which is just as valid as anyone else's when opinions have been requested. Nobody is talking about a pissing contest except you, I don't understand your hostility.

ricks327

Looks great to me!