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Old 05-28-2016, 10:07 AM
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66BlkBB
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Default Flywheel bolts

I have put together a few engines and I can't remember using any type of locking washer on the flywheel bolts. Did Chevrolet ever use a lock washer on their flywheel bolts. I am currently installing a 350 into my 32 and put it together without any lock type washer. I did use loctite on the bolts though. Thanks for any help.
Old 05-28-2016, 10:12 AM
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6T7L71CPE
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Don't know about OEM, but I've used ones like these:





http://www.parts123.com/corvettecent...050b&ukey=1628
Old 05-28-2016, 10:23 AM
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GM used the external stare washers on the flywheel bolts. An you MUST use GM designed bolts. Hard wear store bolts isn't good enough
Old 05-28-2016, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by 66BlkBB
I have put together a few engines and I can't remember using any type of locking washer on the flywheel bolts. Did Chevrolet ever use a lock washer on their flywheel bolts. I am currently installing a 350 into my 32 and put it together without any lock type washer. I did use loctite on the bolts though. Thanks for any help.
You must use Gr 8 bolts with red Loctite. I like to use ARP bolts on flywheel.
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Old 05-28-2016, 05:45 PM
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Roger Walling
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Just yesterday i wondered the same thing.
My old flex plate had marks from the star washers, I installed the new one without them and used red lock tite.
I must be able to read minds in advance!
Old 05-28-2016, 06:07 PM
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Thanks for the responses. I did use locktite but not red. The flex plate bolts I used came out of the same engine and flex plate that they were originally in from the factory. I torqued to 60 FP so hopefully they'll be good..

Steve
Old 05-29-2016, 04:47 PM
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I'd use the red loctite
Old 05-30-2016, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by ILBMF
I'd use the red loctite
Not a good idea - you'll need a torch to get them hot enough to remove; blue will work fine, without affecting the temper of the flywheel.

What REALLY matters is using the correct style bolts with a precision-diameter unthreaded shank, to register the flywheel precisely to the crank flange (shown on the right side in the photo below). DO NOT use a full-threaded bolt (shown on the left side). The photo shows a pressure plate bolt, but it's the same dedicated design as a flywheel bolt.
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Old 05-30-2016, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Nowhere Man
GM used the external stare washers on the flywheel bolts. An you MUST use GM designed bolts. Hard wear store bolts isn't good enough
:agree: Every small block Chevy I have ever disassembled from 1955 thru 1975 had the star lock washers and the thin head bolts. Also, if you use red LocTite, I will guarantee you will be heating the bolts with a torch cherry red to get them out and you will not want to reuse the bolts. Blue LocTite may be OK, but I go with Chevy. Put it back the way they built it. Never had a problem with the stock bolts and star washers in 50 years, why would you want to change something that has worked for 50 years, designed by the Chevrolet Engineers???
Old 05-30-2016, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by R66
:agree: Every small block Chevy I have ever disassembled from 1955 thru 1975 had the star lock washers and the thin head bolts. Also, if you use red LocTite, I will guarantee you will be heating the bolts with a torch cherry red to get them out and you will not want to reuse the bolts. Blue LocTite may be OK, but I go with Chevy. Put it back the way they built it. Never had a problem with the stock bolts and star washers in 50 years, why would you want to change something that has worked for 50 years, designed by the Chevrolet Engineers???
YEP! I've never used LocTite on flywheel-to-crank bolts.
Old 05-31-2016, 01:27 AM
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Originally Posted by DZAUTO
YEP! I've never used LocTite on flywheel-to-crank bolts.
Agreed , never used Loctite on any flywheel to crank bolts stick or auto . only noises coming from down there were cracked flywheels and loose converter bolts . Star washers with shouldered bolts is the combo.
Old 05-31-2016, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by JohnZ
Not a good idea - you'll need a torch to get them hot enough to remove; blue will work fine, without affecting the temper of the flywheel.

What REALLY matters is using the correct style bolts with a precision-diameter unthreaded shank, to register the flywheel precisely to the crank flange (shown on the right side in the photo below). DO NOT use a full-threaded bolt (shown on the left side). The photo shows a pressure plate bolt, but it's the same dedicated design as a flywheel bolt.
You're exaggerating for effect, aren't you. I use red loctite on a lot of applications and never needed a torch to remove them.

Last edited by 65tripleblack; 05-31-2016 at 10:37 AM.
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Old 05-31-2016, 10:46 AM
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I think there's some confusion here. Some are talking about flywheel bolts and others are talking about pressure plate bolts.

I don't think I've ever seen a correct bolt for either application actually come loose in operation if installed/torqued properly.

Use the correct bolts and washers for each application, torqued to the correct spec, and you don't need loctite. They won't fall out.

Last edited by Critter1; 05-31-2016 at 10:47 AM.
Old 05-31-2016, 10:51 AM
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Also never used Loctite and never had a problem.
Old 05-31-2016, 10:58 AM
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FLAP carry the correct bolts. I bought mine at NAPA.
Old 05-31-2016, 10:08 PM
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Some innovations are great today, I.E. I7 Intel processor v.s. Texas Instruments TI-99 or Commodore, or the slide rule, but If you own and OLD Chevy, stick with Chevy unless you are going PRO-MOD with a 1200 HP engine. I don't like any of the fantastic "Gorilla Glues" or LocTite when the original split lock washers or star washers have proven for 50+ years to do the job without the hassle of the glues. I ruined a Hydraulic cylinder shaft trying to remove the nut (stripped the threads) that was secured with RED LocTite. Cost $$$$$
Old 05-31-2016, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by R66
I don't like any of the fantastic "Gorilla Glues" or LocTite when the original split lock washers or star washers have proven for 50+ years to do the job without the hassle of the glues.
That's fine as long as you don't re-use the washers as they're designed for single use only. I prefer to use blue Loc-Tite on critical fasteners without any washers. Seems to have worked for over 4 decades of building cars and engines with zero failures.

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Old 06-01-2016, 08:25 AM
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I have found that it's fine as well if you re-use the "one time use" star washers.

I've changed a lot of flywheels over the years. Don't recall ever buying any new washers or Loc-Tite or anything that looks like Loc-Tite to hold the bolts tight.

That's contrary to the books but it's worked for me without any issues.
Old 06-04-2016, 10:18 AM
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I've always used red loctite on flywheel and pressure plate bolts and have never had to use heat to remove them. That has always been an over-exaggerated idea of needing heat. If you use just a drop of red the bolt always comes out by hand and gives peace of mind. I wouldn't use red on small screws though.
Old 06-04-2016, 11:19 AM
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Three items are being discussed here: flywheel bolts, flex plate bolts, and pressure plate bolts. None are the same.


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