Flywheel bolts
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Flywheel bolts
I have put together a few engines and I can't remember using any type of locking washer on the flywheel bolts. Did Chevrolet ever use a lock washer on their flywheel bolts. I am currently installing a 350 into my 32 and put it together without any lock type washer. I did use loctite on the bolts though. Thanks for any help.
#2
Melting Slicks
Don't know about OEM, but I've used ones like these:
http://www.parts123.com/corvettecent...050b&ukey=1628
http://www.parts123.com/corvettecent...050b&ukey=1628
#3
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GM used the external stare washers on the flywheel bolts. An you MUST use GM designed bolts. Hard wear store bolts isn't good enough
#4
Safety Car
I have put together a few engines and I can't remember using any type of locking washer on the flywheel bolts. Did Chevrolet ever use a lock washer on their flywheel bolts. I am currently installing a 350 into my 32 and put it together without any lock type washer. I did use loctite on the bolts though. Thanks for any help.
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jerry gollnick (05-31-2016)
#5
Melting Slicks
Just yesterday i wondered the same thing.
My old flex plate had marks from the star washers, I installed the new one without them and used red lock tite.
I must be able to read minds in advance!
My old flex plate had marks from the star washers, I installed the new one without them and used red lock tite.
I must be able to read minds in advance!
#6
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Thanks for the responses. I did use locktite but not red. The flex plate bolts I used came out of the same engine and flex plate that they were originally in from the factory. I torqued to 60 FP so hopefully they'll be good..
Steve
Steve
#8
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Not a good idea - you'll need a torch to get them hot enough to remove; blue will work fine, without affecting the temper of the flywheel.
What REALLY matters is using the correct style bolts with a precision-diameter unthreaded shank, to register the flywheel precisely to the crank flange (shown on the right side in the photo below). DO NOT use a full-threaded bolt (shown on the left side). The photo shows a pressure plate bolt, but it's the same dedicated design as a flywheel bolt.
What REALLY matters is using the correct style bolts with a precision-diameter unthreaded shank, to register the flywheel precisely to the crank flange (shown on the right side in the photo below). DO NOT use a full-threaded bolt (shown on the left side). The photo shows a pressure plate bolt, but it's the same dedicated design as a flywheel bolt.
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jerry gollnick (05-31-2016)
#9
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:agree: Every small block Chevy I have ever disassembled from 1955 thru 1975 had the star lock washers and the thin head bolts. Also, if you use red LocTite, I will guarantee you will be heating the bolts with a torch cherry red to get them out and you will not want to reuse the bolts. Blue LocTite may be OK, but I go with Chevy. Put it back the way they built it. Never had a problem with the stock bolts and star washers in 50 years, why would you want to change something that has worked for 50 years, designed by the Chevrolet Engineers???
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:agree: Every small block Chevy I have ever disassembled from 1955 thru 1975 had the star lock washers and the thin head bolts. Also, if you use red LocTite, I will guarantee you will be heating the bolts with a torch cherry red to get them out and you will not want to reuse the bolts. Blue LocTite may be OK, but I go with Chevy. Put it back the way they built it. Never had a problem with the stock bolts and star washers in 50 years, why would you want to change something that has worked for 50 years, designed by the Chevrolet Engineers???
#11
Pro
#12
Safety Car
Not a good idea - you'll need a torch to get them hot enough to remove; blue will work fine, without affecting the temper of the flywheel.
What REALLY matters is using the correct style bolts with a precision-diameter unthreaded shank, to register the flywheel precisely to the crank flange (shown on the right side in the photo below). DO NOT use a full-threaded bolt (shown on the left side). The photo shows a pressure plate bolt, but it's the same dedicated design as a flywheel bolt.
What REALLY matters is using the correct style bolts with a precision-diameter unthreaded shank, to register the flywheel precisely to the crank flange (shown on the right side in the photo below). DO NOT use a full-threaded bolt (shown on the left side). The photo shows a pressure plate bolt, but it's the same dedicated design as a flywheel bolt.
Last edited by 65tripleblack; 05-31-2016 at 10:37 AM.
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jerry gollnick (05-31-2016)
#13
Melting Slicks
I think there's some confusion here. Some are talking about flywheel bolts and others are talking about pressure plate bolts.
I don't think I've ever seen a correct bolt for either application actually come loose in operation if installed/torqued properly.
Use the correct bolts and washers for each application, torqued to the correct spec, and you don't need loctite. They won't fall out.
I don't think I've ever seen a correct bolt for either application actually come loose in operation if installed/torqued properly.
Use the correct bolts and washers for each application, torqued to the correct spec, and you don't need loctite. They won't fall out.
Last edited by Critter1; 05-31-2016 at 10:47 AM.
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Some innovations are great today, I.E. I7 Intel processor v.s. Texas Instruments TI-99 or Commodore, or the slide rule, but If you own and OLD Chevy, stick with Chevy unless you are going PRO-MOD with a 1200 HP engine. I don't like any of the fantastic "Gorilla Glues" or LocTite when the original split lock washers or star washers have proven for 50+ years to do the job without the hassle of the glues. I ruined a Hydraulic cylinder shaft trying to remove the nut (stripped the threads) that was secured with RED LocTite. Cost $$$$$
#17
Le Mans Master
That's fine as long as you don't re-use the washers as they're designed for single use only. I prefer to use blue Loc-Tite on critical fasteners without any washers. Seems to have worked for over 4 decades of building cars and engines with zero failures.
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I have found that it's fine as well if you re-use the "one time use" star washers.
I've changed a lot of flywheels over the years. Don't recall ever buying any new washers or Loc-Tite or anything that looks like Loc-Tite to hold the bolts tight.
That's contrary to the books but it's worked for me without any issues.
I've changed a lot of flywheels over the years. Don't recall ever buying any new washers or Loc-Tite or anything that looks like Loc-Tite to hold the bolts tight.
That's contrary to the books but it's worked for me without any issues.
#19
I've always used red loctite on flywheel and pressure plate bolts and have never had to use heat to remove them. That has always been an over-exaggerated idea of needing heat. If you use just a drop of red the bolt always comes out by hand and gives peace of mind. I wouldn't use red on small screws though.
#20
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Three items are being discussed here: flywheel bolts, flex plate bolts, and pressure plate bolts. None are the same.