Harmonic balancer timing ring shifted
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Harmonic balancer timing ring shifted
During an upgrade from an automatic transmission to a Tremec 5-speed I had the service shop replace all the engine gaskets while the engine was out of the car. I'm glad I did. The outer ring on the harmonic balancer that contains the timing mark shifted counter clockwise resulting in a 12 degree difference. I don't think it would have been caught had the timing cover not been removed. With a new balancer and correct timing the engine has come to life. Of course, the manual transmission gets some of the credit. But so often we're concerned about "project creep" adding significantly to the original project costs that minor work is skipped. That would not have been found had I been solely focused on the tranny replacement and its cost. Second good find was the water pump had a minor leak and was replaced as well. Those two finds prompted a thorough inspection of the remaining drivetrain and suspension, and fortunately nothing else was found. I considered the extra work an early birthday present as my Vette is racing to 50 in September.
#2
#3
Team Owner
Member Since: Mar 2003
Location: Greenville, Indiana
Posts: 26,118
Received 1,843 Likes
on
1,398 Posts
#4
Race Director
Member Since: Jan 2002
Location: Close to DC
Posts: 14,541
Received 2,126 Likes
on
1,465 Posts
C2 of the Year Finalist - Modified 2020
Good catch. Adds peace of mind when you turn the key later. Hopefully the shop didn't over tighten the cover and pan bolts, thereby dimpling the rails and creating future leaks. After you get some 50-100 miles, check those bolts. I don't have the spec before me, but they only need a small torquing in inch pounds. Dennis
#5
Melting Slicks
Is your engine all original? You can also have a misaligned TDC if there is a mix of older/newer balancer and timing chain cover. I can't recall which way the mark goes though.
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w..._TDC_lines_SBC
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w..._TDC_lines_SBC
Last edited by 6T7L71CPE; 05-29-2016 at 11:21 AM. Reason: Added info link
#6
Le Mans Master
Good catch. I never take anything for granted. Every engine I build, before the heads go on, I use a dial indicator to find TDC. Then the balancer is checked against the timing tab to make sure everything is correct. Even using new balancers, I've seen a 2°-3° discrepancy between the tab and the balancer mark. It's an easy fix at that point.
#7
Racer
I don't think this is a rare occurrence at all. I have a '67 coupe and a '68 convertible, both with 327's and both with over 70K miles. The dampers had shifted on both of them. The '68 went first, and I finally figured it out when I couldn't get it to run right with the timing set at factory specs. When I couldn't get the '67 to run right with factory timing, I pretty much knew what was going on. I sent them both out to be rebuilt. It was $110 each and no problems since.
Last edited by tubman; 05-29-2016 at 04:01 PM.
#9
Team Owner
Member Since: Mar 2003
Location: Greenville, Indiana
Posts: 26,118
Received 1,843 Likes
on
1,398 Posts
#10
Melting Slicks
I believe that the pre-69 balancers had the TDC mark aligned with the keyway. Later balancers had the TDC mark 10 degrees counterclockwise.
An easy check is to view with a mirror where the pulley bolt is relative to the TDC mark. Since one of the three struts to the outer ring is aligned with the keyway, it is a good proxy for locating the keyway.
An easy check is to view with a mirror where the pulley bolt is relative to the TDC mark. Since one of the three struts to the outer ring is aligned with the keyway, it is a good proxy for locating the keyway.
#11
Safety Car
#12
Team Owner
Member Since: Mar 2003
Location: Greenville, Indiana
Posts: 26,118
Received 1,843 Likes
on
1,398 Posts
As I recall, myself and four of my buddies all owned cranks like that. All of us had tri-five Chevys, all of us ran 4.56 gears, all of us did a lot of highway driving, all of us had just purchased a new SHP 327 shortblock and finally, all of us used the original 265/283 balancer.
The following users liked this post:
vettefred (01-23-2021)
#13
Safety Car
These things are just inertia rings bonded to the hub with rubber. It would be a rare high mileage damper that didn't have some ring movement relative to the hub
#14
Racer
I have a friend who had a similar problem with his 66 B/B. He complained of a sudden loss of power. I told him to verify his timing, he said he did with a timing light. He finally pulled the engine and sent it to a shop for rebuild against my advice as the compression test and leak down test showed excellent results. The engine shop called him the next morning and said they had found his problem when they pulled his oil pan. The damper's crank shaft end woodruff key was lying in the bottom of the pan. Seems that during the damper installation the key rotated out of the key way in the snout of the crank. The damper was free to rotate on the end of the crank with the result that his timing was WAY off. Just another thing to look at.
Don
Don
Last edited by wraplock; 06-11-2016 at 09:56 AM.
#15
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Washington Michigan
Posts: 38,899
Received 1,857 Likes
on
1,100 Posts
I don't know where the thought originated that the timing index line on the pre-'69 balancers was indexed 2 degrees off of the TDC keyway slot. It wasn't - the timing index line on the pre-'69 inertia rings was aligned EXACTLY in line with the centerline of the keyway slot, and the balancer drawings all had a section of that area that showed the index line was to be centered on the keyway slot, +/- 1/4 of a degree.
#17
Drifting
I have a friend who had a similar problem with his 66 B/B. He complained of a sudden loss of power. I told him to verify his timing, he said he did with a timing light. He finally pulled the engine and sent it to a shop for rebuild against my advice as the compression test and leak down test showed excellent results. The engine shop called him the next morning and said they had found his problem when they pulled his oil pan. The damper's crank shaft end woodruff key was lying in the bottom of the pan. Seems that during the damper installation the key rotated out of the key way in the snout of the crank. The damper was free to rotate on the end of the crank with the result that his timing was WAY off. Just another thing to look at.
Don
Don
You could take the damper off the car and his timing wouldn't change.(it would leak some oil though)
#18
Drifting
I don't know where the thought originated that the timing index line on the pre-'69 balancers was indexed 2 degrees off of the TDC keyway slot. It wasn't - the timing index line on the pre-'69 inertia rings was aligned EXACTLY in line with the centerline of the keyway slot, and the balancer drawings all had a section of that area that showed the index line was to be centered on the keyway slot, +/- 1/4 of a degree.
Why did they change it for the later years?
Gerry
#19
Racer
Perhaps I didn't state it correctly in my original post. The engine didn't begin to run poorly because the damper moved. It began running poorly when he tried to re-time the car after the damper had moved.
#20
Drifting
The engine suddenly ran poorly, and he couldn't set the timing properly to fix it. So he probably had a loose distributor clamp bolt which caused the suddenly poorly running engine.
Sucks to have to pull the engine to find out though.
Gerry