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C2 Luggage Stop Question

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Old 05-29-2016, 06:37 PM
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rayvaflav
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Default C2 Luggage Stop Question

I drove out the rivets that "partially held" the luggage stop in my '66 coupe. What have youse guys used to reinstall it ? Pop rivets ? The body is on the frame so my underside access is somewhat limited.

Ray
Old 05-29-2016, 06:50 PM
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Mike Geary
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Originally Posted by rayvaflav
I drove out the rivets that "partially held" the luggage stop in my '66 coupe. What have youse guys used to reinstall it ? Pop rivets ? The body is on the frame so my underside access is somewhat limited.

Ray
Yes pop rivets, but in new holes for as much strength as possible. Also bonded it to the body with structural epoxy. Floor is much more solid now.
Old 05-29-2016, 07:00 PM
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rayvaflav
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Originally Posted by Mike Geary
Yes pop rivets, but in new holes for as much strength as possible. Also bonded it to the body with structural epoxy. Floor is much more solid now.
Good call Mike, I'll do whatever I can to add to the rigidity of that old car of mine.

Ray
Old 05-29-2016, 07:47 PM
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Nowhere Man
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I would put washers under the pop rivets.
Old 05-29-2016, 08:07 PM
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rayvaflav
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Originally Posted by Nowhere Man
I would put washers under the pop rivets.
Good call, two person job. Getting ready to see if that wife of mine really does love me.

Ray
Old 05-29-2016, 09:02 PM
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Mike Geary
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Originally Posted by Nowhere Man
I would put washers under the pop rivets.
Every little bit helps! If I had the help, washers would have been part of the plan.





It's worth noting that the repro stop obtained from LICS was really heavy-duty compared to OEM. Very nice piece.
Old 05-29-2016, 09:18 PM
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rayvaflav
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Originally Posted by Mike Geary
Every little bit helps! If I had the help, washers would have been part of the plan.





It's worth noting that the repro stop obtained from LICS was really heavy-duty compared to OEM. Very nice piece.
I'm gonna' use my beat to **** OEM piece, it came loose on the driver's side, possibly due to the shifting of my perfect 175/6' frame ... (none of this is true).

Ray (totally/not really healthy)
Old 05-29-2016, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Geary
Yes pop rivets, but in new holes for as much strength as possible. Also bonded it to the body with structural epoxy. Floor is much more solid now.
What are you suggestions for structural epoxy ?

Ray
Old 05-29-2016, 11:36 PM
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Mike Geary
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Originally Posted by rayvaflav
What are you suggestions for structural epoxy ?

Ray

Ray: I happened to have an extra cartridge of Evercoat 100815 left over from a previous project. Uses a standard caulking gun and has worked well for me. 3M and Lord Fusor are great, but I think they need the special, double-barreled gun.

Mike

BTW: here's the little problem that got me involved with this part of the floor in the first place.


Last edited by Mike Geary; 05-29-2016 at 11:41 PM.
Old 05-30-2016, 09:47 AM
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6T7L71CPE
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I used nuts/bolts and fender washers to the underside.
Old 05-30-2016, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Geary
Ray: I happened to have an extra cartridge of Evercoat 100815 left over from a previous project. Uses a standard caulking gun and has worked well for me. 3M and Lord Fusor are great, but I think they need the special, double-barreled gun.

Mike

BTW: here's the little problem that got me involved with this part of the floor in the first place.

At least you can "keep an eye" on your universal!
Old 05-31-2016, 07:59 AM
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I used pop rivets with a washer on the back side of the pop rivet. Seems very solid now.

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