tfvesquire

Just replaced the heater core in my '60 this past weekend and I have to say, it was one of the quickest projects I've ever done. I bought a replacement heater core 2 years ago and it's been sitting in a box until I got up the nerve and set aside the time to tackle this install.

After carefully removing the firewall stud nuts and the cables, I tried to chase down the brown wire to the blower assembly, but I lost it up under the dash and couldn't figure out where the end was. I ended up cutting the wire and resoldering it instead of spending another 30 mins under the hot dash laying on my back looking for the end of the wire. Plus, someone before me had taken the time to secure it in a cluster of dash wires with cable straps that I did not want to disturb since the cluster was kept clear from the wiper transmission cables path of destruction.

Once I got the heater assembly out, it was easy to disassemble the heater core, insert the replacement and button it back up. I inspected the heater valve and did not see any obvious signs of leakage, so I lubricated the valve lever and spring assembly and enlisted my neighbor to watch the firewall while I coaxed it into place.

One thing that took a little time was pulling the fresh air valve cable thru the small hole at the top of the plastic fresh air opening. I realized I needed to pull this cable thru the small hole only after I had gotten the four heater studs in place and nuts started. Instead of having to start all over again, I ran a pull wire from the firewall thru that hole back under the dash and secured it to the loop that attaches to the fresh air valve lever. Worked like a charm.

At this point, I began to think about the heater valve as a possible culprit to my soggy anti-freeze smelling passenger floor carpet so I did not hook up the heater hoses to the heater core.

My question is, has anyone ever experienced one of these valves leaking instead of the heater core itself? It would be a shame to hook up the heater hoses only to have a nice leak from the valve. If there is no way to separately test the heater valve, then I guess I have no choice, but to hook up the line, bleed the air from the heater core and hope for the best.

Any information would be great and I will post my results as well.

Ted

AZDoug

One month after I replaced my heater core, the valve started leaking. On my brand new carpet.

Since it is pain to hook up stuff under the dash, i always would recommend changing the valve with the core.

Doug

ejboyd5

Test the installation with straight water before you add any antifreeze.

Powershift

ALWAYS a good idea.

Larry

Frankie the Fink

When I replaced my heater valve the repro does not come with the silver capillary tube like the original. You can fake it by sticking the old capillary tube into the valve and terminate the other end like the original was. (If your car is judged or whatever)...

The point being don't toss that capillary tube along with the old heater valve...

I also hope you used the correct copper elbow (Paragon has it) as shown near the end of this document. Some vendors sell one that is more like a plumbing fixture and can be the cause of leaks...

A good set of Corbin clamp pliers with swiveling heads makes the job scads easier as well!

wraplock

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE heed Frank's advice. I restored my 60 before I ever found this site. I bought the elbow that some of the vendors sell that looks like a plumbing fitting. I didn't know any better at the time. When the car was finished my wife rode with me to a few cruise nights in the car but one morning she was to tired to join me for a ride to the local Cars and Coffee. Thank God. On my return ride home I pulled into my driveway and the hose was blown off the fitting and 200 degree antifreeze sprayed out at high pressure. Had my wife been in the car her legs and feet surely would have been badly burned. If you have one of those cheapazz fittings replace it now before this happens to you.

BADBIRDCAGE

The valve most likely has the same age and deterioration as the heater core. REPLACE it.

GTOguy

X3 or 4.....I replaced the valve in my '61, because with my luck, I KNEW it was going to fail. My heater core replacement was good quality, but a hair bigger than the oem, so it was a super tight fit in the case. Glad yours fit properly.

DZVette

Here is the elbow fitting in question.
DZ

stratplus

It is easier to change the valve now.

Also per Johnz recommendations have the new valve pressure tested before you install it.

I had my brand new core and valve pressure tested at my local radiator shop and sure enough the new valve was leaking. I brought it home, added some new solder to the joints and it has been great. Had I not tested it you can imagine the pain and frustration of having to remove it again.