JohnZ

In a Pertronix setup, the ballast resistor is only there to protect the COIL, unless you have an aftermarket coil that's specifically designed to run on a full 12 volts all the time (if you run a stock-type coil on 12 volts with no resistor, it will fry in short order). The Pertronix module in the distributor wants a hot feed of 12 volts continuous, so there's no resistor in that feed from the ignition switch.

buns

Hey Knucklehead, do you have the Pertronix 1 or 11? I found this on their website:



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easyriderknucklehead

thanks buns and john z I think you guys are on to something here possibly worth trying. I may not need the ballast resistor after today ordering it (was cheap and easy to install) So buns you posted the pertronix ignitor instructions which I got with my pertronix 1 kit 1181 . I also recently bought a pertronix flame thrower high performance coil which they say on box has oil in it for cooling and its for v8 1.5 ohms and for heaven sakes on the instructions in the box of the coil it says remove resistor. So help me out here do I wire it like it says in figure 2 wiring diagram ignitor system without ballast resistor. Would that be remove the white wire at the ballast resistor that already goes to the positive on the coil and then remove the yellow ignition wire from the other side of the ballast resistor and connect them. The red wire from the ignitor in the distributor already is on the positive of the coil.. at the bottom of the page on the wiring it has a note: a resistor wire or ballast resistor may or may not be included in the original equipment. they are not to be in any way with the installation of an ignitor system. ( does that mean I need a resistor wire to go to the ignition yellow wire or all the way to ignition switch?? Am I finally on to something here ,I am gonna wait to make this change in wiring because as John Z mentioned above I could kill my coil if it was not correct however so maybe it will be fine . I tried calling pertronix to confirm but closed now. I also remember reading someone else saying they took the ballast resistor out but this coil was expensive and if I mess up the pertronix ignitor also I will be waiting for a new kit awhile and of the road again.. All this being said today with the ballast resistor the car did not stall but I didn t go too far. Also why did my car initially run o. k with the original points coil in it for a few weeks without problems. It would just be good to understand this electronics stuff which is my weakest link. But any way thanks guys I will wait and try what ever you make of all this pertronix wiring now that you know exactly what I am running too.

easyriderknucklehead

I have the pertronix 1 and now looking at the troubleshooting you found which sounds similar I see installation instructions and line 2 the ignitor is is compatible only with a points style coilwith a minimum of 1.5 ohms of resistance.
line 3 says if your ignition system presently has a ballast resistor do not remove it see figure 3. and that brings me to possibility # 2 in how I screwed up the wiring with a ballast resistor ( where then my red wire from the ignitor should go to the ballast resistor on top of the yellow ignition wire. I hope it reaches if that is the case and do I need that resistor wire to lenghthen it . I hope your able to determine which route I should go with here . kind of confused again now.

easyriderknucklehead

I wonder if I can follow this wiring for the pertronix 1 and use the Flame thrower coil I am running 1.5 ohms It is rated up to 40 000 volt. thanks for the wiring john

buns

Knuckles, I think I read somewhere in the Pertronix instructions that you could use the Blaster coil without a ballast resistor. I will look for that in the morning.

Another issue is that you refer to yellow and white ignition wires, so someone has made some splices. Makes it difficult to figure out how it's wired. Lots of pictures would help.

easyriderknucklehead

yellow comes in from firewall inside car to ignition key switch and the white goes to positive on the coil where there is 2nd wire to starter and 3rd the red from the ignitor (which is in question)




hi buns so the yellow comes from the ignition switch from the and the white goes to the coil positive.

leif.anderson93

Re-read post #11...you could be chasing your tale for the rest of the time you own this car. Electrical gremlins are the worst...and, the most frustrating.

buns

You've got the red wire from the Pertronix on the wrong terminal. It is only seeing full battery voltage when you have the starter motor engaged.



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aclassicnut

My car had the same scernieo , Run fine for a while, then cut off, let it set for a while, crank up and run great. Acted just like it had fuel starvation.
Changed the ignition switch, have not had another espiode since....KNOCK ON WOODEN HEAD!!!

Frankie the Fink

The latest Pertronix versions require a full 12V while running; the MSD Blaster II coil works well with the system. Both Tom Parsons and I run that combo on several cars...

However, I'm with Leif - you need to asses how roached out your wiring is overall. At some point your time in troubleshooting and fixing dangerous Bubba crap exceeds the cost of replacing harnesses...

59BlueSilver

I'm running Pertronix III with a Blaster II coil and disconnected the ballast resistor. A couple of years and several thousand miles.

easyriderknucklehead

after confirming what you wrote here I called pertronix helpline and he said the same . I have the 1181 pertronix and 1.5 ohm coil so he said just by-pass the ballast resistor and run a jumper from one side (ignition wire) to the other side of the ballast resistor (white wire) which goes to the positive on the coil. He said I could leave the red wire from the pertronix ignitorin distributor on the positive of the coil as well. I went for a long drive and no problems what so ever. So that is another good thread solved and only because you all were involved and I kept trouble shooting. I believe it was mentioned early on a few people with the pertronix 2 and 3 had by-pass the ballast resistor and had success but I had the original 1 and sorry was hesitant due to wrecking the coil.. THanks fellows

easyriderknucklehead

I thought I was done with this problem as the other day I by-passed the ballast resistor and drove the car and did not have it stall on me once. Yesterday excited about my new seat skins I installed and a seat belt for my girlfriend we go ten minutes and take a left turn and it Stalled again , I rolled into the parking lot and should have got out and tried to trouble shoot and rule out fuel-pump again and check the driving lights etc , but I decide to reach under and wiggle the ignition switch and it fired up, now this has worked before. I have not replaced this yet and left the old ballast resistor on the firewall which I re-check the wires and the bypass jumper I installed and will try take it right out maybe as one of the brass connections is loose on the ballast resistor but since It is by-pass should not matter right. I am also going to run a ground from the ignition switch as there is not one and maybe call the pertronix tech line again to see if I can rub that ground to where the distributor (I believe the points had one and I left it connected) If none of this works and I have to check the bulkhead again. Why or how does the ignition switch even work and cause this problem and is the 1965 switch different I read than the 1966 or 1964 etc . I got a part number delco d1417b or g.m 12322803 if I need can I use anything else . thanks I left this for last as its probably weeks till I get it .

jet-tech

I would try putting everything back to stock, points, coil, B-resistor and wiring to ignition system. See if your problems come to an end. Just thinking outside the box. Tim

JohnZ

The ignition switch is NOT grounded. Why not just put it back together the way it was designed and move on?

65GGvert

I seem to have trouble communicating with you, so I am going to ask only one question and I'd like you to answer only that question so I can eliminate something we discussed in your other thread. When the car dies, do the radio, fan motor, clock, courtesy lights, etc in the cabin still work? If you don't know, turn on the fan and courtesy lights and drive until it dies and then tell me what happens to those two things when the car dies.

babbah

Easy, did you ever replace all of that butchered wiring harnesses in you car? We were working with you months ago recommending new wiring harnesses. Some of your wiring photos from your posts months ago still will make anyone cringe. If you haven't replaced the wiring I hope that you have purchased a good fire extinguisher.
Also have you Removed and cleaned your 2 bulkhead connectors pins etc. And then Tighten your bulk head connectors under the master cylinder. This Will cure all your ills.

babbah

Wow this post brings back many memories with the ongoing saga by the OP. Remember months ago??

easyriderknucklehead

I remembered your question earlier today when I walked out to the car and had not even drove it and turned the key and nothing happened. I immediately thought of you 65ggvert and tried the blinkers,heater,radio and got nothing with the ignition left in the on position. And just for the heck of it I wanted to rule out once again I wasn t experiencing a bad fuel pump (backing off etc ) took air cleaner off and watched gas dump in the carb as I pump throttle . O.K so its clearly electrical (the ballast coil is now disconnected and I ran a new yellow correct coloured wire to the ignition from the coil positive with 1 single connection . I checked the ground which I see is under the cap and still connected from the old points set up and clean. Still nothing and so now I focus on the ignition switch take it off smell it see if its burnt or something and then wiggle the wires on the plastic connector when I hook it back up and the heater ,turn signals come on. I think I am finally on to something The red wire going into the plastic is a little loose , so I stick a screw driver in remove it to check if the connector is clean and o k and seems like if I pull the lock tab out a bit it goes into the ignition switch much better and securely. I go for a drive with the ignition hanging and did not stall after 30 minutes so far. I also stopped by the bumper to bumper to see if I can get a new switch but now think iys just the connections and my red wire-but while I am in there tomorrow I am going to pull all the wires out of that plastic plug carefully and solder any that are weak and loose and puul the little tab out and securely put them back in ,maybe a little shrink tube colour coded properly on the ends I may solder so no fires even though there is plastic to protect them. If that solves it great , I sure hope so because every thing else on the car works and I am confident there will be no more smoke from my wiring as I now disconnect my battery and do carry a fire extinguisher in the car . SO anyway do you agree this was the problem and I can cancel that ignition switch because the key part works fine. And oh I noticed there is no ground hooked up on the ignition switch (where is the best or proper place for a ground to go from the ignition switch. And just one more thing I noticed the thick ignition yellow wire that goes to my coil has a black /purple striped spliced to it at the ignition switch slot. I believe that goes to starter. Are they supposed to be together at the switch. Maybe if possible anyone have the correct colours behind the ignition switch to plug??/ thanks for getting involved I think your earlier tip heater,radio etc has got me to narrow it down , I don t feel bad about changing the coil,and eliminating the ballast resistor it only Improves the way my car runs and responds to my heavy lead foot and its 2 things I won t have to change in the near future. one day if I get working again I may change the bulkhead and wiring to new , but the frame is looking great painted and interior is done , just did the seats myself.Lseat