[C2] starter issue
#1
starter issue
I have a starter issue I think...
67, with a 454 crate motor.
The starter works fine when the engine is cold.
But, when it is warm and I turn the key, the starter does nothing. I can hear the electric fuel pump kick in when I turn the key to on.
When I turn the key to start a few times, the starter eventually engages.
Any suggestions?
67, with a 454 crate motor.
The starter works fine when the engine is cold.
But, when it is warm and I turn the key, the starter does nothing. I can hear the electric fuel pump kick in when I turn the key to on.
When I turn the key to start a few times, the starter eventually engages.
Any suggestions?
#2
Drifting
I have a starter issue I think...
67, with a 454 crate motor.
The starter works fine when the engine is cold.
But, when it is warm and I turn the key, the starter does nothing. I can hear the electric fuel pump kick in when I turn the key to on.
When I turn the key to start a few times, the starter eventually engages.
Any suggestions?
67, with a 454 crate motor.
The starter works fine when the engine is cold.
But, when it is warm and I turn the key, the starter does nothing. I can hear the electric fuel pump kick in when I turn the key to on.
When I turn the key to start a few times, the starter eventually engages.
Any suggestions?
RON
#3
Race Director
Member Since: Jan 2002
Location: Close to DC
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C2 of the Year Finalist - Modified 2020
If you can't find one, make it yourself. Go to the Home Depot or similar place and buy a 1'x 1' aluminum sheet. Make a cardboard mock up first, then do the alum. I did and it's much larger then the GM small one. Dennis
#5
Is there a chance this could be a bad battery. I charged the battery and the problem seemed to go away. But I don't understand why, when I turn the key three times, nothing happens but on the fourth time, the engine starts right up.
And thank you for the replies above.
And thank you for the replies above.
Last edited by sbaba; 07-28-2016 at 01:10 AM.
#6
Team Owner
Summit and Jegs both have heat wrap for starters very cheap.
Takes 10 minutes to install and, if you don't want it on there permanently, at least could be used temporarily to test the heat soak theory. Then if you want a fancy metal one fabricated go for it:
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...32000/10002/-1
But yes, first check ALL of the high amperage connections at battery and starter for corrosion, looseness...
Takes 10 minutes to install and, if you don't want it on there permanently, at least could be used temporarily to test the heat soak theory. Then if you want a fancy metal one fabricated go for it:
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...32000/10002/-1
But yes, first check ALL of the high amperage connections at battery and starter for corrosion, looseness...
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 07-28-2016 at 05:10 AM.
#7
Safety Car
I still say a bad connection ,lose or poor ground (only when it's hot) if when cold a bad connection If you can jump the starter at the starter and the engine turn over you have a bad connection some were
Last edited by 1955 copper; 07-28-2016 at 10:33 AM.
#8
Team Owner
#9
Safety Car
I understand what your saying , but then where is the engine grounded to the FRAME ?? engine and trans sits on rubber pads .That's the ground I'm talking about
#10
Drifting
In actuality, on a 67, the negative battery cable is connected directly to the starter. The cable ends in a loop, and one of the starter mounting bolts goes through it, so unless the starter bolt is loose or you have a buildup of corrosion there, it is virtually impossible for the starter to have a bad ground.
#11
Race Director
In actuality, on a 67, the negative battery cable is connected directly to the starter. The cable ends in a loop, and one of the starter mounting bolts goes through it, so unless the starter bolt is loose or you have a buildup of corrosion there, it is virtually impossible for the starter to have a bad ground.
The factory AC cars are different, with ground lead attached to the engine bell housing on the left side.
But a correct statement for the non-AC cars.
Larry
#12
Instructor
If you eliminate all of the obvious problems give this a thought. High torque starters really work great. I have one on my NOM 63 with 350 crate motor and headers that would just refuse to start when warm.
I think this one is for a BB motor
https://www.summitracing.com/nv/parts/pwm-9200
I think this one is for a BB motor
https://www.summitracing.com/nv/parts/pwm-9200