Noob looking to buy a 1962 C1 Vette - Need Advice
#1
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Noob looking to buy a 1962 C1 Vette - Need Advice
Noob here, and I fell in love with the '62 Vette decades ago and have been following some ads for about a year now.
This car would be a daily driver. I put about 3,000 miles a year on my current car (I work within a mile from my house - so I don't rack up a lot of miles).
I don't really care about matching numbers or how original the car is, rather I'm looking for a fun convertible to drive.
I think I have found one that looks like a fair price ($30k). What advice can you give a first time buyer of a C1?
What should I look for?
What should I expect for maintenance?
Do I need a backup vehicle for when it's in the shop?
Any tips/advice you wish someone had told you before buying?
Anyone use their classic vette as a daily driver?
Thanks and I apologize in advance for any stupid questions!
This car would be a daily driver. I put about 3,000 miles a year on my current car (I work within a mile from my house - so I don't rack up a lot of miles).
I don't really care about matching numbers or how original the car is, rather I'm looking for a fun convertible to drive.
I think I have found one that looks like a fair price ($30k). What advice can you give a first time buyer of a C1?
What should I look for?
What should I expect for maintenance?
Do I need a backup vehicle for when it's in the shop?
Any tips/advice you wish someone had told you before buying?
Anyone use their classic vette as a daily driver?
Thanks and I apologize in advance for any stupid questions!
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Moving from Cars For Sale classified to General discussion.
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Whitedolemite (08-04-2016)
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Wow....a '62 for 30K? And it sounds like it runs?
Better do your due diligence with that one.
Get it on a lift, and carefully scrutinize the car from front to back. Check for frame rust, especially back near the "rear kick-ups." This is where the frame jumps up, just prior to going up and over the rear axle.
Look for any signs of body damage, and/or body repairs.
Check the VIN and ensure it matches. Both on the steering column, and also along the top of the frame, just under the drivers seat.
Honestly though, there are so many areas where you can get stung. And 30K sure sounds awe-fully cheap!
Get yourself an individual who is very familiar with these cars. Even if you have to pay for professional assistance, just be sure they don't try to buy it out from under you.
Again, it may be a "killer" deal and you could have stumbled upon a very nice car.
But honestly, seek the help of somebody who has a significant knowledge base on these cars.
Pat
Better do your due diligence with that one.
Get it on a lift, and carefully scrutinize the car from front to back. Check for frame rust, especially back near the "rear kick-ups." This is where the frame jumps up, just prior to going up and over the rear axle.
Look for any signs of body damage, and/or body repairs.
Check the VIN and ensure it matches. Both on the steering column, and also along the top of the frame, just under the drivers seat.
Honestly though, there are so many areas where you can get stung. And 30K sure sounds awe-fully cheap!
Get yourself an individual who is very familiar with these cars. Even if you have to pay for professional assistance, just be sure they don't try to buy it out from under you.
Again, it may be a "killer" deal and you could have stumbled upon a very nice car.
But honestly, seek the help of somebody who has a significant knowledge base on these cars.
Pat
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Whitedolemite (08-04-2016)
#4
Le Mans Master
Unless you know the person you are getting the 62 from for 30k please post the info here so we can tell you if its a scam or not.
Do what PJ wrote in the reply above.
As for a daily driver, as long as you dont mind working on it some and only drive 3000 a year it will be fine.
I look at my cars every time I drive them. they are 45/50 years old and something always needs checking.
Do what PJ wrote in the reply above.
As for a daily driver, as long as you dont mind working on it some and only drive 3000 a year it will be fine.
I look at my cars every time I drive them. they are 45/50 years old and something always needs checking.
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Whitedolemite (08-04-2016)
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Have you ever driven one?
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Whitedolemite (08-04-2016)
#6
Drifting
Noob here, and I fell in love with the '62 Vette decades ago and have been following some ads for about a year now.
This car would be a daily driver. I put about 3,000 miles a year on my current car (I work within a mile from my house - so I don't rack up a lot of miles).
I don't really care about matching numbers or how original the car is, rather I'm looking for a fun convertible to drive.
I think I have found one that looks like a fair price ($30k). What advice can you give a first time buyer of a C1?
What should I look for?
What should I expect for maintenance?
Do I need a backup vehicle for when it's in the shop?
Any tips/advice you wish someone had told you before buying?
Anyone use their classic vette as a daily driver?
Thanks and I apologize in advance for any stupid questions!
This car would be a daily driver. I put about 3,000 miles a year on my current car (I work within a mile from my house - so I don't rack up a lot of miles).
I don't really care about matching numbers or how original the car is, rather I'm looking for a fun convertible to drive.
I think I have found one that looks like a fair price ($30k). What advice can you give a first time buyer of a C1?
What should I look for?
What should I expect for maintenance?
Do I need a backup vehicle for when it's in the shop?
Any tips/advice you wish someone had told you before buying?
Anyone use their classic vette as a daily driver?
Thanks and I apologize in advance for any stupid questions!
Does it overheat?
Was the body cut in half and have a donor back end or front end....check paint in trunk to see if the traces of original paint match the front and in and around the dash
make sure the windows roll up and down
strong gas smell from above gas tank?
gas gauge and other gauges work?
windshield leaks, glass pulls away from frame when top is latched, broken bolts on pillar end would allow windshield to rock.
original color written in crayon behind pass seat
wet pass floor rug, means heater core leaking
best 62 engine combo is a 327/300 with a 3:36 gear for easy cruising.
rear and side visiblity with the rag top up is terrible while a hardtop makes you think you have a totally differnt car with differnt sounds, light and 360 view.
terrible in snow unless you have serious snow tires.
brakes on the 62 were the same brakes used on full sized metal cars and more than adequate to stop a vette.
the rear strut rods that attach to the ouer fram rails from the rear axle carrier are typically broken of show small cracks in the weld on the frame. the rear crossmember where the back of the springs attach are typically rusted thru especially at the pass side end. All easy fixes.
these cars were daily transportation and dependable, today with a good radiator and new brake hoses, you are good to go...very simple straight forward, like a canoe compared to the more complicated 63 to 67 series vettes
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Whitedolemite (08-04-2016)
#7
Safety Car
Whitedolemite:
It would help if you filled out your profile and let us know where you are located. You may even get a volunteer to look at the car for you.
Charles
It would help if you filled out your profile and let us know where you are located. You may even get a volunteer to look at the car for you.
Charles
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Whitedolemite (08-04-2016)
#8
Team Owner
What should I look for?
What should I expect for maintenance?
Do I need a backup vehicle for when it's in the shop?
Any tips/advice you wish someone had told you before buying?
Anyone use their classic vette as a daily driver?
Thanks and I apologize in advance for any stupid questions!
The following users liked this post:
Whitedolemite (08-04-2016)
#9
Race Director
That is cheap - C1 bodies for restomods go from $20K-$25K -- could be a good deal but I'm skeptical; so buyer beware
Rusty frame, butchered wiring, replacement front clip (if so check for a good installation) Prob take you 6 months to a year to iron out the mechanicals on a car this cheap to make it a reliable driver. Brakes, fuel system, ignition, suspension, steering.You better have. Most classic car insurance companies require you to have a car registered in your name as a daily driver and don't cover running errands and such. Or, you could put the car under regular auto insurance but prob won't get "agreed upon" value coverage.
Expect to spend a nice chunk of change to bring the car up to make it a reliable, nicely appearing driver.Don't do it unless you live in some rural area without much traffic. Most of us are old and the only protection in these cars are a seat belt. Distracted aggressive drivers will kill or maim you. I know.
Rusty frame, butchered wiring, replacement front clip (if so check for a good installation) Prob take you 6 months to a year to iron out the mechanicals on a car this cheap to make it a reliable driver. Brakes, fuel system, ignition, suspension, steering.You better have. Most classic car insurance companies require you to have a car registered in your name as a daily driver and don't cover running errands and such. Or, you could put the car under regular auto insurance but prob won't get "agreed upon" value coverage.
Expect to spend a nice chunk of change to bring the car up to make it a reliable, nicely appearing driver.Don't do it unless you live in some rural area without much traffic. Most of us are old and the only protection in these cars are a seat belt. Distracted aggressive drivers will kill or maim you. I know.
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Whitedolemite (08-04-2016)
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Whitedolemite (08-04-2016)
#11
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i got my 60 for 20k in 2014 so it can be done. Now I have put a new interior, tires, brakes, cooling system etc to make it very reliable and that probably all said and done added about 13k over a few years.
I would worry about driving it 1 mile 2 times a day because that will be hard on it. My dad had a commute like this when I was a kid and he just kept an extra exhaust at the house because they would only last about 6 months at a time. Now it was a ford, but don't worry I broke the strangle hold ford had on my family and even converted my dad.
I would worry about driving it 1 mile 2 times a day because that will be hard on it. My dad had a commute like this when I was a kid and he just kept an extra exhaust at the house because they would only last about 6 months at a time. Now it was a ford, but don't worry I broke the strangle hold ford had on my family and even converted my dad.
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Whitedolemite (08-04-2016)
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Whitedolemite (08-04-2016)
#13
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Well, you've gotten some pretty good advice so far from people who know. While my '62 isn't really a Daily Driver, I would feel comfortable getting in it any day and setting out on a short trip without any real concerns. Just bear in mind that this is a 55 year old car, and as Frankie pointed out, not as safe as a modern car if some nitwit playing Pokemon-Go plows into you. They do take routine maintenance, but are really pretty simple machines. Mine is a 300hp/4-speed and cruises very nicely. I happen to love the car even more with the hardtop, but not everyone does. If you have never driven a C1, do that first - they can be a tight fit for big guys, although the '62 is better than most in that department. Radial tires are a must. I will say that 30K sounds very, very cheap so I would be very, very careful what you're actually buying. Good luck, let us know what you decide and why.
Last edited by fyreline; 07-22-2016 at 05:35 PM.
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Whitedolemite (08-04-2016)
#14
Drifting
Like Charles said if you filled out your profile and let us know where you are located it would be a big help. A one mile drive to work in southern Cal. is not the same as a one mile drive in Denver.
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Whitedolemite (08-04-2016)
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If your commute is a mile, ride a bicycle. Driving a car like this such a short distance is bad for it, plain and simple. Anything less than about 5-8 miles is. You'll never be off the choke or have an open thermostat. Engine oil will never get hot enough to evaporate condensation. Bad stuff for an engine. 30k is indeed cheap these days for a c1 in driving condition. Keep us posted, this sounds promising!
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Whitedolemite (08-04-2016)
#16
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Thread Starter
This is great advice. I'll see what I can find out.
I agree it sounds too good to be true - which usually means it's not!
Thank you for your response.
I agree it sounds too good to be true - which usually means it's not!
Thank you for your response.
Wow....a '62 for 30K? And it sounds like it runs?
Better do your due diligence with that one.
Get it on a lift, and carefully scrutinize the car from front to back. Check for frame rust, especially back near the "rear kick-ups." This is where the frame jumps up, just prior to going up and over the rear axle.
Look for any signs of body damage, and/or body repairs.
Check the VIN and ensure it matches. Both on the steering column, and also along the top of the frame, just under the drivers seat.
Honestly though, there are so many areas where you can get stung. And 30K sure sounds awe-fully cheap!
Get yourself an individual who is very familiar with these cars. Even if you have to pay for professional assistance, just be sure they don't try to buy it out from under you.
Again, it may be a "killer" deal and you could have stumbled upon a very nice car.
But honestly, seek the help of somebody who has a significant knowledge base on these cars.
Pat
Better do your due diligence with that one.
Get it on a lift, and carefully scrutinize the car from front to back. Check for frame rust, especially back near the "rear kick-ups." This is where the frame jumps up, just prior to going up and over the rear axle.
Look for any signs of body damage, and/or body repairs.
Check the VIN and ensure it matches. Both on the steering column, and also along the top of the frame, just under the drivers seat.
Honestly though, there are so many areas where you can get stung. And 30K sure sounds awe-fully cheap!
Get yourself an individual who is very familiar with these cars. Even if you have to pay for professional assistance, just be sure they don't try to buy it out from under you.
Again, it may be a "killer" deal and you could have stumbled upon a very nice car.
But honestly, seek the help of somebody who has a significant knowledge base on these cars.
Pat
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ptjsk (08-07-2016)
#17
5th Gear
Thread Starter
I'm actually looking forward to working on a '62. I think that would be part of the fun.
Unless you know the person you are getting the 62 from for 30k please post the info here so we can tell you if its a scam or not.
Do what PJ wrote in the reply above.
As for a daily driver, as long as you dont mind working on it some and only drive 3000 a year it will be fine.
I look at my cars every time I drive them. they are 45/50 years old and something always needs checking.
Do what PJ wrote in the reply above.
As for a daily driver, as long as you dont mind working on it some and only drive 3000 a year it will be fine.
I look at my cars every time I drive them. they are 45/50 years old and something always needs checking.
#19
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Thread Starter
Thanks everybody. I'm going to see if the vehicle is still for sale. The care is in Washington state (I'm in AZ). So I'll need to find a mechanic that can take a look.