New dash Pad Protection
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
New dash Pad Protection
Just installed a new dash pad in my 62 and would like to know what you guys use to protect it
any and all replies would be appreciated
Thx
Steve
any and all replies would be appreciated
Thx
Steve
Last edited by Canuck62; 07-26-2016 at 09:34 AM.
#2
Race Director
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Location: Cape Cod, Mass.
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303 Aerospace Protectant is very good for protecting the dash and seats. Gives a nice matte finish and is not greasy. Good stuff.
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Canuck62 (07-26-2016)
#3
Race Director
303 seems to be the most recommended. I have found it locally at places that handle a lot of boating equipment (Gander Mountain in my case) although I read recently that they were working on a wider distribution plan.
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Canuck62 (07-26-2016)
#5
Pro
Thread Starter
There is a lot to do to remove and replace the pad
big jobs are removing windshield , gauge cluster and insert
my old pad was completely glued on so i had a lot of scrapping and cleaning to remove old glue and foam
i had a lot of while i was here,,, like i installed new windshield frame,, new wire harness and had everything painted,,, cluster , speaker grill and trim and package tray
if you do a search on here and you tube you can find lots of help
big jobs are removing windshield , gauge cluster and insert
my old pad was completely glued on so i had a lot of scrapping and cleaning to remove old glue and foam
i had a lot of while i was here,,, like i installed new windshield frame,, new wire harness and had everything painted,,, cluster , speaker grill and trim and package tray
if you do a search on here and you tube you can find lots of help
#6
Team Owner
As to the other question I have a dash pad cover for both of my cars that covers the vinyl and protect from sun and heat....
Dashdesigns can make you one too...
#8
Melting Slicks
I had my windshield coated with a clear ceramic (LLuminar) coating to protect my pads and interior. Blocks 99+% UV rays and cuts heat transfer by 40%. Cost was around $225.00 but well worth it IMO. It also comes with a lifetime transferable guarantee!
Gary
Gary
Last edited by Gary's '66; 07-26-2016 at 12:16 PM.
#10
Burning Brakes
On the insert I ground down a nut enough so it would fit through the mounting hole after threading onto the center stud. I had to grind out the opening hole just a very little. With large washers on the back side I was able to pull it in enough to start nuts on the other two studs.
Remove one at a time and install washers and snug down.
The cluster is just as bad. I installed left sissy bar bracket first and then
dash pad for final time. I installed a 1/4" x 2.5 " threaded rod into the center cluster mounting hole. I bent it enough to get it started while dropping the cluster in. It pulled the cluster in enough to get the other bolts started. Be VERY patient trimming the pad for fit around the insert and the cluster. Get the most CONSERVATIVE and patient person you know to help you with this. After the pad is on, fitting the right side sissy bar bracket was easy for me the second time.
I had pre installed it and market lines on the body where the bolts line up. I slide it in from back to front and it went right in.
After the insert and cluster are in, glue and secure, then punch holes from underside to locate speaker, air ducts, mirror and interior light.
Another good tip is to use body putty to fill holes for dash end caps so you can install them without worry about just missing the holes.
good luck,
Patience be with you so you won't need to do it again like me.
Larry
#11
Team Owner
I didn't have to do ANY of that....when I put in my Romeo Engineering pad about 6 years ago...in the 61...
#12
Burning Brakes
Bolts all just went right in?
All the holes where pre-cut for vents, speaker, mirror?
I'm still trying to get the cluster in far enough to get the bolts in,
but, it's only been 3 days.
Larry
Last edited by Larry P; 07-28-2016 at 07:06 PM.
#14
Pro
Thread Starter
I didnt have any problems like yours with my Al Knoch pad
Although i did need my wifes help to push in on the insert and cluster
The insert she used her hands along side mine while i threaded the nuts on
and the cluster she pushed with her feet while i layed on my back to get the bolts started
other than those two things,,, it went in pretty smoothly
Although i did need my wifes help to push in on the insert and cluster
The insert she used her hands along side mine while i threaded the nuts on
and the cluster she pushed with her feet while i layed on my back to get the bolts started
other than those two things,,, it went in pretty smoothly
I'm doing this now, again. The biggest problem for me has been getting the insert and cluster in far enough to install the nuts/ bolts.
On the insert I ground down a nut enough so it would fit through the mounting hole after threading onto the center stud. I had to grind out the opening hole just a very little. With large washers on the back side I was able to pull it in enough to start nuts on the other two studs.
Remove one at a time and install washers and snug down.
The cluster is just as bad. I installed left sissy bar bracket first and then
dash pad for final time. I installed a 1/4" x 2.5 " threaded rod into the center cluster mounting hole. I bent it enough to get it started while dropping the cluster in. It pulled the cluster in enough to get the other bolts started. Be VERY patient trimming the pad for fit around the insert and the cluster. Get the most CONSERVATIVE and patient person you know to help you with this. After the pad is on, fitting the right side sissy bar bracket was easy for me the second time.
I had pre installed it and market lines on the body where the bolts line up. I slide it in from back to front and it went right in.
After the insert and cluster are in, glue and secure, then punch holes from underside to locate speaker, air ducts, mirror and interior light.
Another good tip is to use body putty to fill holes for dash end caps so you can install them without worry about just missing the holes.
good luck,
Patience be with you so you won't need to do it again like me.
Larry
On the insert I ground down a nut enough so it would fit through the mounting hole after threading onto the center stud. I had to grind out the opening hole just a very little. With large washers on the back side I was able to pull it in enough to start nuts on the other two studs.
Remove one at a time and install washers and snug down.
The cluster is just as bad. I installed left sissy bar bracket first and then
dash pad for final time. I installed a 1/4" x 2.5 " threaded rod into the center cluster mounting hole. I bent it enough to get it started while dropping the cluster in. It pulled the cluster in enough to get the other bolts started. Be VERY patient trimming the pad for fit around the insert and the cluster. Get the most CONSERVATIVE and patient person you know to help you with this. After the pad is on, fitting the right side sissy bar bracket was easy for me the second time.
I had pre installed it and market lines on the body where the bolts line up. I slide it in from back to front and it went right in.
After the insert and cluster are in, glue and secure, then punch holes from underside to locate speaker, air ducts, mirror and interior light.
Another good tip is to use body putty to fill holes for dash end caps so you can install them without worry about just missing the holes.
good luck,
Patience be with you so you won't need to do it again like me.
Larry
#15
Burning Brakes
I finally got the cluster bolted in. I had to use a two x four and wedge it between the seat back panel and the cluster. I used part of the old pad to cushion against the cluster. I shimmed it until the bolt holes lined up and finally got it in.
Not something you want to do at 71 and 235!
But, I DID IT!
Larry
Not something you want to do at 71 and 235!
But, I DID IT!
Larry