Torque spec?
#1
Melting Slicks
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Torque spec?
My Motors Manual calls out the main bearing cap torque to be from 60 to 70 ft pounds. Engine is a 64 327 250 HP PG.
Can someone please confirm this?
Thanks,
Bruce B
Can someone please confirm this?
Thanks,
Bruce B
#5
Burning Brakes
Don't Fix What's Not Broke
I would not run a tap in any bolt holes unless there is a problem with the thread . A tap will cut metal out and loosen the thread .
JMO Bill
JMO Bill
#8
Melting Slicks
However, every hole in the block has a thread chaser run thru it and is cleaned and blown out with air.
Thread chasers will straighten out slightly bent threads, taps will usually screw them up.
A decent set of thread chasers runs about fifty bucks, you'll be surprised how often you use them.
Last edited by Bill32; 07-26-2016 at 09:34 PM.
#9
Le Mans Master
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Yep, I NEVER use a tap unless I'm cutting new threads, especially on the race motors.
However, every hole in the block has a thread chaser run thru it and is cleaned and blown out with air.
Thread chasers will straighten out slightly bent threads, taps will usually screw them up.
A decent set of thread chasers runs about fifty bucks, you'll be surprised how often you use them.
However, every hole in the block has a thread chaser run thru it and is cleaned and blown out with air.
Thread chasers will straighten out slightly bent threads, taps will usually screw them up.
A decent set of thread chasers runs about fifty bucks, you'll be surprised how often you use them.
#10
I do agree a thread chaser is a better choice. Most people don't have them, but a better choice. Ultimately, if you can take the bolt and run it in by hand to it's limit without effort you're good to go...just oil the bolt threads. I recently assembled a modular Ford aluminum V8 stroker engine and needed to install ARP head studs and did not have a long metric thread chaser and didn't hesitate to run a long tap. I remember distinctly feeling a burr in one hole and just being glad I had the tap.
#11
Le Mans Master
And just as important as putting oil on the bolt threads a drop on the underside of the bolt head is necessary also.
I have an old Federal-Mogul Engine Bearing catalog from the 80's. These were the bearing bible for engine builders for years.
It says
Rods 30-35 ft pounds
Mains 60-70 ft pounds
Head Bolts 60-70 ft pounds
Boy, things were simple back then.
I have an old Federal-Mogul Engine Bearing catalog from the 80's. These were the bearing bible for engine builders for years.
It says
Rods 30-35 ft pounds
Mains 60-70 ft pounds
Head Bolts 60-70 ft pounds
Boy, things were simple back then.
#12
From my memory the rod bolts for the 327 small journal crankshaft has a 11/32 bolt and I believe the torque is 20-25ftlbs. The 30-35 spec is for the later rods with 3/8 bolts.
#13
Race Director
And I ASSUME that those here KNOW that when using an oil on the threads of a bolt...depending on its grade...DOES effect the torque. Which is why in many factory service manuals you may see that when the wheel is being put back on a the car they specifically write: 'DRY threads'.
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/to...ts-d_1693.html
http://www.enerpac.com/en-us/torque-tightening
DUB
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/to...ts-d_1693.html
http://www.enerpac.com/en-us/torque-tightening
DUB