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I'm beginning the process of getting my '57 roadworthy.
Since this car is nearly 100% untouched, are there any details which may be helpful others that I can look for and pass on as I go through it?
Also, what did you decide on... just getting it road worthy?
Here she is, for the other that missed THIS THREAD
I'm in the gray area around conservation. I will remove the drive train, disassemble and replace anything that may compromise durability if necessary. Same for the chassis - including dimensioning and retempering the springs to original specs.
I'm in the gray area around conservation. I will remove the drive train, disassemble and replace anything that may compromise durability if necessary. Same for the chassis - including dimensioning and retempering the springs to original specs.
The way that car is sitting, I wouldn't touch the springs...front or rear.
I would not disassemble anything that did not need it. Period. I would not remove the drivetrain. Sitting for decades inside and full of grease, the drivetrain is likely just fine. Change out the fluids and go from there. Does the engine turn over by hand, or is it stuck? Remember, in your case particularly, less is more. Your car is a special case, and should be left as un-disturbed as possible in the process of making it safe and roadworthy. Yanking the driveline....please don't....unless you have to for repairs!
I would not disassemble anything that did not need it. Period. I would not remove the drivetrain. Sitting for decades inside and full of grease, the drivetrain is likely just fine. Change out the fluids and go from there. Does the engine turn over by hand, or is it stuck? Remember, in your case particularly, less is more. Your car is a special case, and should be left as un-disturbed as possible in the process of making it safe and roadworthy. Yanking the driveline....please don't....unless you have to for repairs!
If the car is truly untouched I would proceed with caution. Clean the car within an inch of it's life. Get the car running and see what it may need to run and drive. Replace only what absolutely has to be replaced. Leave the rest alone
I would not disassemble anything that did not need it. Period. I would not remove the drivetrain. Sitting for decades inside and full of grease, the drivetrain is likely just fine. Change out the fluids and go from there. Does the engine turn over by hand, or is it stuck? Remember, in your case particularly, less is more. Your car is a special case, and should be left as un-disturbed as possible in the process of making it safe and roadworthy. Yanking the driveline....please don't....unless you have to for repairs!
A few things I know about the car right now. Sometime around 1959
(I assume the mileage was low at that time) the heads were removed. It was clearly evident one cylinder had a broken ring. My Dad told me the cylinder wall was heavily scored at that time. There remains a considerably thick black streak of road draft under the car. I spoke with my uncle who last drove it in 1970, told me the clutch was in very poor condition. The original exhaust system is crumbling. The differential won't lock, although it may with a fluid change and some use
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (track prepared))
2019 C1 of Year Finalist (track prepared)
It's your car, so do what you want. But since you are soliciting opinions, the writers above are correct; leave everything that you can alone.
Assuming it's level side to side, it's stance looks very good. The springs are fine. Getting it to run will probably not be a big challenge, but if you disassemble anything, keep track of which bolts came out of where and put them back where they belong.
Be concerned mainly with the brakes. Look for leaks around the master cylinder; especially inside the car where the plunger attaches to the brake pedal. Wheel cylinders may leak. Hoses should be replaced with new correct hoses. Of course, as said before all fluids should be changed.
Front suspension may need attention. Lift it and see if the kingpins seem loose. If not, grease all of those zerks and hope for the best. Re-pack front wheel bearings.
The steering box will probably be dry. I fill mine with grease that won't leak out, unlike the gear oil they used to use.
I doubt that your wiring needs to be replaced. But I installed a battery cut-off in my '57 because I don't quite trust my 59 year old wiring.
I hope you'll just take your time, and affect repairs with correct parts.
It's your car, so do what you want. But since you are soliciting opinions, the writers above are correct; leave everything that you can alone.
Assuming it's level side to side, it's stance looks very good. The springs are fine. Getting it to run will probably not be a big challenge, but if you disassemble anything, keep track of which bolts came out of where and put them back where they belong.
Be concerned mainly with the brakes. Look for leaks around the master cylinder; especially inside the car where the plunger attaches to the brake pedal. Wheel cylinders may leak. Hoses should be replaced with new correct hoses. Of course, as said before all fluids should be changed.
Front suspension may need attention. Lift it and see if the kingpins seem loose. If not, grease all of those zerks and hope for the best. Re-pack front wheel bearings.
The steering box will probably be dry. I fill mine with grease that won't leak out, unlike the gear oil they used to use.
I doubt that your wiring needs to be replaced. But I installed a battery cut-off in my '57 because I don't quite trust my 59 year old wiring.
I hope you'll just take your time, and affect repairs with correct parts.
I was just offering to look for any details others may want to
know about concerning originality
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (track prepared))
2019 C1 of Year Finalist (track prepared)
So maybe it's time to go through the engine. Just be sure your shop (if you're not doing it yourself) knows that decking the block is out of the question, and all the bolts go back where they were. Then you can do the clutch replacement, and you might as well go through that four speed.
But an entire correct exhaust (are the mufflers original? are they round?) and an entire set of hangers. Check the bezels inside the rear chrome that the pipes go through. They might need to be replaced. If not, leave them.
So maybe it's time to go through the engine. Just be sure your shop (if you're not doing it yourself) knows that decking the block is out of the question, and all the bolts go back where they were. Then you can do the clutch replacement, and you might as well go through that four speed.
But an entire correct exhaust (are the mufflers original? are they round?) and an entire set of hangers. Check the bezels inside the rear chrome that the pipes go through. They might need to be replaced. If not, leave them.
I'm set up to do engine work. I do plan to catalogue every component. Yes, round, all that remains of the exhaust system are the bezels, the mufflers crumble to pieces if touched, hangers are almost that bad.
Before you embark on ANY work at all, be sure you understand the notion of NCRS Bowtie Star judging, and Bloomington Gold Survivor judging. IF you have any interest at all in obtaining those awards for your dad's car you need to go down those paths BEFORE you touch the car with a wrench or a screwdriver. You have some NCRS Regionals coming up in CAL and AZ, and in Washington state over the next couple years, and the NCRS National meet is in Las Vegas in 2018. You would get your Bowtie sign off at a Regional meet, and the Bowtie Star award at a National. Since you have nearby meets coming up, you could more easily obtain those awards conveniently rather than having to trailer the car across the country to get it accomplished. And for Bloomington you just apply and go next year to Indy and get your award. IF you want to pursue this. Just understand that once you start removing parts for cleaning, you negate your option for these awards. There is a No. CAL NCRS meet coming up next month in Folsom. You can push the car up onto a UHaul trailer and take it there, and let some people in the know in the club put some eyes on it and tell you if you should pursue Bowtie Star judging.
write me if you want more info on doing what I have described above.
If none of what I wrote interests you, then forge ahead with your plans.
good luck
Before you embark on ANY work at all, be sure you understand the notion of NCRS Bowtie Star judging, and Bloomington Gold Survivor judging. IF you have any interest at all in obtaining those awards for your dad's car you need to go down those paths BEFORE you touch the car with a wrench or a screwdriver. You have some NCRS Regionals coming up in CAL and AZ, and in Washington state over the next couple years, and the NCRS National meet is in Las Vegas in 2018. You would get your Bowtie sign off at a Regional meet, and the Bowtie Star award at a National. Since you have nearby meets coming up, you could more easily obtain those awards conveniently rather than having to trailer the car across the country to get it accomplished. And for Bloomington you just apply and go next year to Indy and get your award. IF you want to pursue this. Just understand that once you start removing parts for cleaning, you negate your option for these awards. There is a No. CAL NCRS meet coming up next month in Folsom. You can push the car up onto a UHaul trailer and take it there, and let some people in the know in the club put some eyes on it and tell you if you should pursue Bowtie Star judging.
write me if you want more info on doing what I have described above.
If none of what I wrote interests you, then forge ahead with your plans.
good luck
Sounds interesting. What spoils that status? This weekend I removed the door panels to lubricate the regulators, latch mech. and locks - everything in the passenger door was seized. Also, I discovered - attached image - I don't know when this was done.
Jerry,
what spoils survivor (or bowtie) status in the classic corvette hobby is the hand of man.
The judging in either Bloomington or NCRS evaluates the degree of originality in all the aspects of the car from chassis, to body, to interior, to engine bay.
There can be alterations to originality in minor degrees and still meet the standard. Cleaning if done gently so as not to remove markings does not affect originality.
So, the question becomes, do you want to seek the awards while your car is still eligible (before you start disassembly, overhaul and reassembly) or not.
My point is, if I had your car, I would want to make that decision BEFORE I made changes that remove the option of seeking the awards.
I would have the car judged before I do anything. NCRS, or BG, judges can point out things that you might never notice. Once you start taking things apart you're basically screwed.
Even an aggressive cleaning would screw this car up.
If you need something to do you can start by changing all the fluids, including the brake fluid. NOTE: Do Not use Silicone fluid.
You want to get the car operational without changing any parts.
I would plan on not doing anything for at least a year. Take to it NCRS shows and collect advice from the judges.
I though my '58 was mainly original until I started working on it. Wow - was that an experience. I can't tell you how many redneck fixes I found.
57'S are one of my favorites. I owned 9 of then back in the day.
I see you are from El Dorado, California, home of NOLAND ADAMS. Great guy having some senior health issues.
You need to meet JIM LOCKWOOD, who lives in Pollock Pines. He is a long time NCRS member and Corvette owner. His wife has a 58. Jim ''knows'' solid axel Corvettes. I have his phone number if you PM me, I am happy to forward.
08-22-2016, 03:54 PM
Original '57 - what's a mystery?
If the car is truly untouched I would proceed with caution. Clean the car within an inch of it's life. Get the car running and see what it may need to run and drive. Replace only what absolutely has to be replaced. Leave the rest alone
