57 Rocker Arm Stud Cut
08-22-2016, 10:52 PM
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
57 Rocker Arm Stud Cut
The valve was adjusted
Last edited by 54greg; 11-25-2019 at 12:04 AM.
08-22-2016, 11:10 PM
#3
Race Director
The valve was adjusted too loose. The rocker arm came off the valve and scored the stud. The cut is below the treated portion but about as deep as the threads. The pushrod is bent. Can I replace the pushrod and readjust the valves? Does the stud need to be changed? The stud is a press fit. If need be can the stud be changed without removing the head?
Larry
Last edited by Powershift; 08-22-2016 at 11:10 PM.
08-22-2016, 11:35 PM
#4
Safety Car
Thread Starter
The studs not bent or loose
Last edited by 54greg; 11-25-2019 at 12:04 AM.
08-22-2016, 11:41 PM
#5
Race Director
Hard to say without seeing it first hand. Try it like it is..... and just keep an eye on it to see if it gets worse.. Listen for any unusual noise during operation.
If it looks too scored and bad, replace it. All I can say.
Larry
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54greg (08-23-2016)
08-23-2016, 12:16 AM
#6
Safety Car
Thread Starter
a new press fit stud.
Last edited by 54greg; 11-25-2019 at 12:05 AM.
08-23-2016, 01:11 AM
#7
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They make tools to remove it...but a stack of washers/spacers will do the job. Drop them on and tighten the nut.
A screw in stud (without the socket base) would make it bulletprood (on that stud anyway).
JIM
A screw in stud (without the socket base) would make it bulletprood (on that stud anyway).
JIM
08-23-2016, 08:15 AM
#9
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Greg, that cut will be a point of weakness and potential failure. I think it would be easier to change the stud now, while you can grab it by the threads than it would be to have to grab just the broken stub.
AFAIK, the hole for the stud goes into the water jacket, so you need to drain the coolant slightly before you do anything.
Jim
AFAIK, the hole for the stud goes into the water jacket, so you need to drain the coolant slightly before you do anything.
Jim
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54greg (08-23-2016)
08-23-2016, 08:31 AM
#10
Le Mans Master
Studs
You can always pin the stud. A small hole is drilled into the head and stud. Next a drift or rolled pin is installed that holds the stud in place. I did this on both of my L-79 engines. All 16 studs cost about $3 each to do. Jerry
08-23-2016, 11:26 AM
#11
Race Director
Greg:
Replacement studs are available in regular size, oversize, and then screw-in. You could initially try just regular size....but perhaps buy a slight oversize (maybe 0.002 inch) stud at the same time just in case you feel the original size goes back to loose. Remove like 427 Hotrod stated or get a removal tool.
New one is installed with some sealer like Permatex 2 and hammer. An extra long (special) nut is threaded on the stud to keep from damaging the threads when hammering the stud in. There should be a slight bevel at the bottom of the replacement stud to get in started straight. Maybe even freeze it beforehand or use the freeze-stuff in a can to shrink the metal a bit.
Some of the old Service Manuals should have the procedure for all of this if you need it........probably also a Utube video somewhere if you search. I remember watching my Dad use this procedure on various motors we were rebuilding MANY years ago. Always worked first time, never a rework.
You can also buy the special tool Chuck recommended and make the stud a "screw in".
Larry
Replacement studs are available in regular size, oversize, and then screw-in. You could initially try just regular size....but perhaps buy a slight oversize (maybe 0.002 inch) stud at the same time just in case you feel the original size goes back to loose. Remove like 427 Hotrod stated or get a removal tool.
New one is installed with some sealer like Permatex 2 and hammer. An extra long (special) nut is threaded on the stud to keep from damaging the threads when hammering the stud in. There should be a slight bevel at the bottom of the replacement stud to get in started straight. Maybe even freeze it beforehand or use the freeze-stuff in a can to shrink the metal a bit.
Some of the old Service Manuals should have the procedure for all of this if you need it........probably also a Utube video somewhere if you search. I remember watching my Dad use this procedure on various motors we were rebuilding MANY years ago. Always worked first time, never a rework.
You can also buy the special tool Chuck recommended and make the stud a "screw in".
Larry
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54greg (08-23-2016)
08-23-2016, 07:51 PM
#12
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The valve was adjusted too loose. The rocker arm came off the valve and scored the stud. The cut is below the threaded portion but about as deep as the threads. The pushrod is bent. Can I replace the pushrod and readjust the valves? Does the stud need to be changed? The stud is a press fit. If need be can the stud be changed without removing the head?
The following users liked this post:
54greg (08-23-2016)
08-24-2016, 09:12 PM
#13
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Had a stud start pulling out on my 57 FI engine.
Removed the stud, borrowed a guide to tap the hole and used a replacement screw in stud.
Before I tapped the hole I packed the botton of the hole with paper towel.
After tapping I used a small magnet to pull out the chips and then a vacuum cleaner then carefully removed the paper towel.
6 years of driving and no problems.
Removed the stud, borrowed a guide to tap the hole and used a replacement screw in stud.
Before I tapped the hole I packed the botton of the hole with paper towel.
After tapping I used a small magnet to pull out the chips and then a vacuum cleaner then carefully removed the paper towel.
6 years of driving and no problems.
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54greg (08-25-2016)