64 front nose supports question
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
64 front nose supports question
my 64 had a broken off nose section that I re-attached. The 2 nose support brackets were bent so I made them straight since I saw new ones for sale that were straight. The nose seems too high with them attached, meaning the hood is lower then the nose, hood is mounted in correct position. Maybe the braces are meant to be bent in the middle section causing them to be slightly shorter which would bring the nose down a little. Could somebody look at theirs and see if there is a bend along the center section.. I realize the bottom connector is bent where it touches the frame. thanks... Bob
#2
Le Mans Master
my 64 had a broken off nose section that I re-attached. The 2 nose support brackets were bent so I made them straight since I saw new ones for sale that were straight. The nose seems too high with them attached, meaning the hood is lower then the nose, hood is mounted in correct position. Maybe the braces are meant to be bent in the middle section causing them to be slightly shorter which would bring the nose down a little. Could somebody look at theirs and see if there is a bend along the center section.. I realize the bottom connector is bent where it touches the frame. thanks... Bob
#3
Team Owner
If you mean the two on the insides of the headlights they should be straight, and as you said the ends bent:
#4
Le Mans Master
as said, those rods should be straight as an arrow if nose is hanging true.
Original rods have R and L imprinted in them up near top. Repros might too.
see this thread from a couple weeks ago.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...port-rods.html
Original rods have R and L imprinted in them up near top. Repros might too.
see this thread from a couple weeks ago.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...port-rods.html
#5
Instructor
Thread Starter
that picture is not the same.. my braces one left one right
passenger side runs center side of headlight frame to cross-member of radiator support. no bend on headlight side.
drivers side also runs the same way starting at center side of headlight support to cross-member.
they are too short. as far as me reattaching the nose wrong.. I don't think so because the break did not go into the fenders at all. the front center panel was broke off..between the headlights. the gap between the the hood and the front panel is correct. Is it possible different years attach rods in a different way. Maybe one of the repairs of this car was done with incorrect parts or maybe the nose was attached "short" by a previous owner. I bought the car as a core with the damage. any thoughts
passenger side runs center side of headlight frame to cross-member of radiator support. no bend on headlight side.
drivers side also runs the same way starting at center side of headlight support to cross-member.
they are too short. as far as me reattaching the nose wrong.. I don't think so because the break did not go into the fenders at all. the front center panel was broke off..between the headlights. the gap between the the hood and the front panel is correct. Is it possible different years attach rods in a different way. Maybe one of the repairs of this car was done with incorrect parts or maybe the nose was attached "short" by a previous owner. I bought the car as a core with the damage. any thoughts
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USMC 0802 (09-07-2016)
#7
Instructor
Thread Starter
I think I found the problem.
I removed the radiator frame and found there were body shop shims welded under it causing the frame to be higher. More shims on the drivers side which would account for the drivers side to be even more off..needing a shorter rod.
Can anyone confirm the factory didn't weld shims under there.. you know there are 2 bolts one on each side facing vertical, shims raised the radiator mount. I will wait a little for a response before I cut them out.
There is slight damage to the frame arm drivers side which will be easy to straighten. I believe during the cars life it was hit up front and the repair shmoe decided to not straighten the frame, shim up the radiator frame for some reason and bend the nose supports so it would line up.
I removed the radiator frame and found there were body shop shims welded under it causing the frame to be higher. More shims on the drivers side which would account for the drivers side to be even more off..needing a shorter rod.
Can anyone confirm the factory didn't weld shims under there.. you know there are 2 bolts one on each side facing vertical, shims raised the radiator mount. I will wait a little for a response before I cut them out.
There is slight damage to the frame arm drivers side which will be easy to straighten. I believe during the cars life it was hit up front and the repair shmoe decided to not straighten the frame, shim up the radiator frame for some reason and bend the nose supports so it would line up.
#9
Le Mans Master
Last edited by 1snake; 09-07-2016 at 01:38 PM. Reason: picture added
#11
Instructor
Thread Starter
yes snake.. back to square 1. I must remove the center panel and re-glass it on. When I first did it I did not attach the rods and the hood wasn't properly aligned. Once the hood was aligned the nose sat low. I remedied this by building up the nose. Looks good but since nose is thicker the metal headlight frame is sitting lower then normal which is causing the problem. I could shorten the rods but I won't. I want it to be right. I want to keep this car.
#12
Race Director
QUESTION:
I read this thread....and you mentioned the hood was lower than the front clip. My question is:
Is the hood flush with the front clip right beside where the hinges are located... and the hood being down a the back correctly????
DUB
I read this thread....and you mentioned the hood was lower than the front clip. My question is:
Is the hood flush with the front clip right beside where the hinges are located... and the hood being down a the back correctly????
DUB
#13
Instructor
Thread Starter
the nose is higher only when I attach the rods. when they are not attached they are the same but remember I built up the nose because it was too low relaxed no rods attached. the answer is I must remove the build-up of glass I laid and then cut off the nose and start over with rods attached. It should be easy to remove the build-up since the original fiberglass looks and grinds differently. I originally attached it without putting enough thought in it. I really do appreciate all the help I'm getting here.. you guys know a lot which is unusual with forums generally. thank you all..