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and, be thankful, if you're using the 'goo' method, that you don't have an open bottom bellhousing; it doesn't have a continuous flat surface or cover the whole hole...
Like the above but I used a very thin gasket material and plenty of goo. I had always thought the best fix would be remove shaft and turn it down on the end for an"O" ring. Why would that not work.
Like the above but I used a very thin gasket material and plenty of goo. I had always thought the best fix would be remove shaft and turn it down on the end for an"O" ring. Why would that not work.
not a good idea from the viewpoint of reduced shaft support in the case in the case... especially if the hole is already oversized
Thanks to all who responded to give me tips on this repair. Yesterday I jacked up the car and loosened the 6 bolts to slide the transmission back. I made a couple of rookie mistakes but nothing serious. I was able to get the transmission back about 1/2" for access to the countershaft hole. More space was going to require an "up and over" move of the tailshaft over the cross member. I was concerned about alignment. I bought a couple of 1/2"-13 X 3" bolts and put in the lower bellhousing holes to act as guide pins when pushing the transmission back.
Today I cleaned the countershaft hole and used a putty knife to apply the Black Ultra RTV and made a shim stock gasket (Coke can) to prevent the RTV from adhering to the bell housing (Thanks WMF62).
Slapped it all back together and now allowing the RTV to cure. The most difficult part was getting the cross member bolts to line up. I did not want to cross thread the bolt holes.
Thanks to all who responded to give me tips on this repair. Yesterday I jacked up the car and loosened the 6 bolts to slide the transmission back. I made a couple of rookie mistakes but nothing serious. I was able to get the transmission back about 1/2" for access to the countershaft hole. More space was going to require an "up and over" move of the tailshaft over the cross member. I was concerned about alignment. I bought a couple of 1/2"-13 X 3" bolts and put in the lower bellhousing holes to act as guide pins when pushing the transmission back.
Today I cleaned the countershaft hole and used a putty knife to apply the Black Ultra RTV and made a shim stock gasket (Coke can) to prevent the RTV from adhering to the bell housing (Thanks WMF62).
Slapped it all back together and now allowing the RTV to cure. The most difficult part was getting the cross member bolts to line up. I did not want to cross thread the bolt holes.
You could have had em cut a groove in it for an o-ring.
My machinist wanted to do this also but it is "working on the symptom and not the cause"
The case hole will still be worn and will only get worse.
Joed
Thanks to all who responded to give me tips on this repair. Yesterday I jacked up the car and loosened the 6 bolts to slide the transmission back. I made a couple of rookie mistakes but nothing serious. I was able to get the transmission back about 1/2" for access to the countershaft hole. More space was going to require an "up and over" move of the tailshaft over the cross member. I was concerned about alignment. I bought a couple of 1/2"-13 X 3" bolts and put in the lower bellhousing holes to act as guide pins when pushing the transmission back.
Today I cleaned the countershaft hole and used a putty knife to apply the Black Ultra RTV and made a shim stock gasket (Coke can) to prevent the RTV from adhering to the bell housing (Thanks WMF62).
Slapped it all back together and now allowing the RTV to cure. The most difficult part was getting the cross member bolts to line up. I did not want to cross thread the bolt holes.
Thanks to all.
Randy
How many runs, drips, or errors have you had since last year ?
09-19-2016, 08:15 PM
