tgtexas02

Have a T10-1 main case cast Jan 58 with build date Apr 1, 1958 and tail cast Mar 25, 1958. Going to buy a repop T148 side cover and can come up with a front bearing retainer and a mid plate. I have no internals such as bearings, gaskets, gears, sync and forks. Want to rebuild with original close ration setup. Any recommendations on who to buy complete parts from?

DZAUTO

Call Larry Fischer of D&L Transmission, tell him what you need. I've been doing 4sp business with him for over 30yrs and he is one of the most knowledgeable and helpful people you will ever do business with.
Now, with that said, if it were my T10, I'd upgrade it with later T-10 parts and go with a later 27spline tail shaft. To do this, it will be necessary to very slightly enlarge the hole in the main case for the reverse idler gear---------------the 59-later T10 used a larger, better reverse idler gear.
http://www.dandltransmission.com/

tgtexas02

Thanks so much. Calling him now

tgtexas02

Yes, a really nice guy and you only have to tell him once what you are trying to achieve. He takes it from there. Pleasantly surprised at quote too. I am buying. Thanks Tom!

jimgessner

I would love to learn the story of your car, a 58 Corvette. ''REAL'' T-10 transmissions are very rare. Many of them ''broke''. In 58 they made 3764 units, far greater than the 661 in 1957. Chevy improved them over the years thru 1963.

Can you describe you car?

tgtexas02

Jim, thanks for your interest in my 58. I actually found the car locally (Fort Hood, Texas) in 2000, fell in love with her, and purchased as my "rescue" effort. A 59 283 tonawanda motor, no transmission, totally disassembled, rust free frame/parts, soda blasted body, and many, many boxes of original parts wrapped in 1978 Lawrenceville, Georgia newspapers. According to the owner(s), it was last registered in Georgia and the title had been lost so this was a bill of sale buy (Georgia only keeps title records for a couple of years so no way to get a replacement title). It was his wife's car from a previous divorce settlement and now they were going through divorce too. In speaking to her she simply did not want it anymore and money was more important than the car. I paid $9K and hauled everything 30 miles to my garage and stored it until now.

The car most likely was a base optioned car built May 28 with radio and heater. No clutch tower so originally an automatic, blue exterior, charcoal seats, nonposi rear, and hardtop only.

As for the T10, the cases are in excellent condition. I found the 7A tail about ten years ago and the main case a week ago. D&L is shipping me everything I need except the side cover and they preferred to put the main assembly together.

Will eventually find a correct motor someday, going through bonded title process, and plan to finish the car in next 12 to 18 months.

jimgessner

If you want to share the vin number, I might have an engine block located. I sold all my iron, but know many collectors that can help with this effort.

jim lockwood

Not quite true.

Georgia does not issue titles on vehicles made prior to about 1964. Vehicles manufactured prior to about 1964 transfer ownership on the tag receipt only.

tgtexas02

Maybe it was a poor choice of a word title vs registration. However, as I recall back in 2000 if you lost a registration/title in Georgia that was over a couple of years back (in this case about 22 years), you weren't getting anything for Georgia records. Probably true in most States? Regardless, the only proof I have is a bill of sale and I did have my sheriff department friend run the vin back then-not reported stolen and no registered owner.

In Texas, a bonded title isn't too difficult to get and then you eventually get a clear Texas Title. As a Texas resident, this is the only choice I have.

Thanks for keeping me honest as I don't want to confuse others about Georgia DMV procedures.

tgtexas02

Jim, sent you PM regarding engine block info.

DZAUTO

I guess that a lot of people are not aware that the VERY early (57-62) T-10s can ALMOST be upgraded to Super T-10 condition. YES, it will certainly cost more than just a rebuild, but if someone (like me for instance) wants to have a 4sp that will tolerate a lot more abuse (I have a Muncie in the 56) than a stock T-10, but RETAIN a factory stock look and have correct numbers, then that is certainly a very good option. About the ONLY thing that is noticeably different is replacing the stock 16spline tail shaft with a later 27spline tail shaft ----------------------- but wait, once the driveshaft yoke is installed, it can't be seen!!!!

Pilot Dan

Exactly what I did in my 59 and went to the wide ratio to work best with the highway rear.

tgtexas02

Excellent point-that is why I have an M22 Muncie and Super T10 too. But I really like the idea of having a pretty hard to come by T10-1 too. Hoping that whoever gets this car when I am gone will appreciate my efforts from a "correct" perspective. Always thinking of others.

Pilot Dan

Mine is an original T-10 and I think Tom was trying to make the same point. The upgrade is visually undetectable when installed.

jimgessner

I just sent you a PM Bill. A California friend has a #739 block casting FLINT E/6/8 with a a.030 bore. $1100 for block. $350 deck, broach and stamp for a total of $1450. He will check tomorrow for 770 heads.

tgtexas02

I want to personally thank two people who helped me in this thread. First is Tom Parsons (DZAuto) who recommended D&L Transmissions in New York. I am in Texas and Larry made it a breeze to do long distance business. I only had two mid-58 cases and D&L came up with everything else except a side cover--I mean everything too! Parts ranged from very, very prestine mint used and nos items for original geared close ratio. And, I had budgeted $1000 and it cost less. Second person is Jim Gessner who put me in touch with a friend of his who is sending me a correctly cast/dated/stamped standard bored block and 770 heads for my car. Another great guy, Joe Marquez (he knows this business too), private message me and I will send you his phone number. Thank you very much Tom and Jim.