Vette-O-saurus Rex

Hello guys. Coming home from a cruise in tonight I had no dash lights and I checked and no tail lights either. I checked voltage on both sides of the second fuse from the bottom and zero volts. The fuses are good I checked it with my ohm meter. I know the third fuse from bottom is fed from the second from bottom fuse. i turned the rheostat and same problem. A few months ago, the plug that goes in to the firewall to the fuse block had wiggled itself lose and I plugged it back in, but it's hard to tell how long the dash and tail lights haven't been working because it's been a few months since I have driven it at night. I have an electrical schematic but it goes to the switch and then it is very vague and I can't tell exactly what is feeding the brown wire at the switch, which wire? What color? Is it the red one. It could be the switch I guess, or that rheostat. I'm hoping someone knows what to tell me to do. I am competent with a meter so if someone has a good suggestion I will try it right away. Thanks!!

65GGvert

The tail lights and dash lights don't go through the connectors on the firewall.
If you don't have 12v on the left side of the second fuse, and your lighter, power antenna, etc ARE working, you have a broken connection between the red wire feeding battery voltage to the fuse block and the left side of that second fuse. The more likely problem is the fuse is bad internally where it connects to the cap on the fuse. Don't just measure, replace that fuse and see what happens. Another possibility is the prongs that hold the fuse have gotten corroded and not making contact with the fuse cap.
If you are CERTAIN you have no voltage on the left side CLIP that holds the second fuse from the bottom, you probably have a bad connection on the back side of the fuse block. Double check for voltage on the clip itself and report back.

Frankie the Fink

That installed fuse can look good and be a problem. Sometimes its not even corrosion or broken parts. The little "fingers" that hold the fuse can weaken and fail to make good contact. I see people pry those fingers open aggressively with a big screwdriver to remove a fuse instead of using a removal tool or prying horizontally at the cap with a thin screwdriver...doing it wrong can mess things up.

Lectric Limited sells fuse box repair kits but follow the above advice to see what's up and let's hope it something simple. Fuse box repair is a PITA.

Vette-O-saurus Rex

Ok. I apparently didn't have my lead on a good ground so after you guys suggested a recheck I found an actual ground and tried it again. I also changed out the fuse on second from bottom. I now have 12 volts on both sides. Still no voltage on either side of 3rd from bottom fuse. All other fuses show 12 volts so I know I am reading good now. Still no tail lights or gauge lights. A little progress though.

hope2

Always check fuses with test light, not visual. Saves gray hair from appearing.

Vette-O-saurus Rex

Ok, had no voltage going to third fuse from bottom, so I started so taking out headlight switch. While pulling it out the lights came on. Apparently a lose wire or something on or in the switch. Everything is working for now. If I need to take that switch all the way out how do I get the pull piece off? I know how to get the nut thing off, but don't see an Allen head or anything on the handle part, if it gives me anymore trouble I'm just going to replace the switch.

buns

Pull shaft out to 'on' position, push in the spring loaded shaft retainer and continue pulling.








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65GGvert

The voltage on the second fuse from the bottom goes on a brown wire to the switch, then comes back to the third from bottom fuse on the dark green wire. If tail lights and dash lights are both out, the problem should be on the brown wire connection on the switch.

Vette-O-saurus Rex

Got it! Thank you very much. Was a loose wire on the switch, and possibly a fuse that read good but for some reason wasn't working. Changed it out also even though it looked good and read no resistance on the meter. Thanks again.