chris383

You're right... I've seen the rubber components to replace and some hard work on engine bay.
My appraiser told me the frame and underbody is rust free... But I didn't see by myself....
Working on a car (I've restored a pretty rusted Dodge Challenger) don't affraid me, but not for that price !
Again thank you everybody for your help.
Chris

midyear

your rear end pics are not showing the right end of the half-shafts...and, that rear pumpkin is restamped, and not a great job of that. only redeeming big block thing I see is that the drivers inner fender at one time did have a prop rod on it. as for originality, this car is lacking in many ways, the radiator is also a replacement.

NightshiftHD

That trim tag is suspicious but not because its scratched up. Some idiot has taken steel wool or Scotchbrite to it probably to clean off paint overspray instead of wiping it with lacquer thinners. Its an AO Smith built body, assembled in Jan 28 (F28) which means the VIN should be before 12587 which was the last car built in Jan 66. This VIN 133xx would be a week into Feb 66. I don't know when the trim tag date code is actually applied to the car. Maybe someone here can confirm. That tag is for an original Tuxedo Black (900) car with black leather (402).

Mikado463

'IF' everything is correct, than given the color combination that price is in line IMO. I can tell you if it were a '67, 75k would almost be a bargain in my area

kenba

This has been beat to death but the reverse of the old saying is appropriate. If it DOSN'T look like a duck walk like a duck & quack like a duck it's NOT a duck.

chris383

Thank you all for your precious help.
I've asked the seller to lower the price to $ 60k, but, as expected, he refused.

I understand his point of view because it is a nice driver for someone not very concerned about originality...

He told me this sentence :

This car is an AO Smith body car and the hood latch and rod should be on the passengers side on AO Smith body cars and on Drivers Side on ST Louis built bodies

What do you think about this ?

DansYellow66

I don't believe that statement is true to the best of my knowledge. Owning a 66 BB car and being on this site for 13 years - never heard that one.

Even if he were willing to take $60k it would be a tough call on this one. It does appear to be a solid, good condition, fairly original appearing (to the average person) BB, solid lifter car, convertible - in Black on Black with a NOM (and quite possibly a clone of a BB). I would say if as it sits, it's close to exactly what you want and you are sure that you won't get bit by the gotta restore this thing so every nut and bolt is pristine and I could eat off the frame and burn retinas from the paint reflection - then I would say $60k might be within reason. Buy it, make minor repairs, drive it, enjoy it. It would be a knockout at most cruise nights.

If you think you might not be satisfied with it as it sits and would want to start restoring it, you would quickly get way underwater fast on the car. In that case you would be far better off to look for a completely done, original motor car for another $20 - 30k.

But in the end it's all about what the seller wants for it and what someone else is willing to pay for it. Sounds like he wants more for it than I would be willing to pay for it - so, if it were me I would have to walk away and keep looking.

NightshiftHD

Well, this seller has no idea what he's talking about. ALL big blocks had their hood support on the drivers side EXCEPT for very early cars up to about VIN 3600 which were mounted on the passenger side as a carry over from the 65 396 hoods. The 65 396 hood did not have any mounting pad on the drivers side so they were used up in very early 66 427 cars on the passenger side. In Sep 65, the hood was redesigned to move the mounting pad to the drivers side. Since this is a Feb 66 car around VIN 133xx, its definately well past this. The reason the hood on this car has the support on the right is because someone installed a 65 hood, which also explains why there is no holes for the Corvette script emblem on the drivers front corner of the hood. You can see on the drivers inner fender there used to be a hood support bolted onto the pad there ... thats when the car was a small block most likely.

Has he send you pictures of ...

- the half shafts where they attach to the rear differential
- the rear sway bar
- the dash showing the tach and oil pressure gauge
- the front side of the drivers inner fender so you can see the TI unit (or holes)
- an overhead shot of the gas line on top of the frame rail on the passenger side where it bends toward the fuel pump
- the actual VIN number ... I can only see 133xx

These will help confirm if a clone or not. Bill

chris383

I've today declined the car !
Too much unknow facts. Plus, the condition of that car need certainly at least 15k of material (+work) to have a reasonable (but still unoriginal) good car. But for these 90k, I can have a good (but not perfect) original L72.

Thanks to everybody for your very valuable help !

Chris.

DansYellow66

I think a $90k budget should find you a really nice, original/restored 66 L72 although it may take a while and some looking - as long as you stay away from places like Barret-Jackson.

chris383

Yes, but I haven't this budget for now (I must still pay about 10k for Swiss importation...)
I have 2 choices : I wait until next year to have more money to buy a decent L72 or L36
or I buy a good L76/L79 this year.
I won't use auctions anyway !

Mikado463

Chris, I met a fella @ Carlisle with a superb '66, L79, Mossport Green (my personal favorite), NCRS 'second flight', he was asking 65k. If interested I'll see if I still have his contact info when I get home

chris383

Hello,
Thank you for your proposal. But I really don't like this color, I'm sorry !
Chris