Firemedic1966

Well, changed the oil in my 62 and noticed a knock on lower end oil pan bought the car about two months ago and only drove it maybe six times. Weighing crate vs rebuild and can have complete rebuild new everything-balanced bulletproof for about $4,000. My guess is PO just filled the crankcase with a heavy weight oil and passed problem to next owner. Its possible...but can't do anything about it now and try and keep a positive attitude about it.

My car has its numbers matching motor, and although a crate motor is attractive price wise...leaning towards complete rebuild. Even if I pull the motor and get a crate...yes I have the numbers matching on a stand with a rod knock.

Oh well, PO stated he rebuilt engine, but just had a few receipts for parts. At least I had a shop receipt for trans and diff rebuild.

Yes, not even going to drive the car and the motor will be coming out soon. Just sucks, but at the same time its part of owning an old car.

Firemedic1966

Just to add when I inspected the car all fluids were clean no knocks-ticks-rattles of any kind. Car idles fine and has no blowby and great oil pressure. Oil was clean as a whistle and nothing leaks...its just after oil change noticed the noise and to me its either rod knock-piston slap. Sound is faint and can't really hear it under load, but its there...was hoping it was clutch related but you can still hear it with clutch pressed in. I even pulled the plugs and plugs are fine. I know...there was probably a million other things I could have checked before I bought it..but unless you have xray vision...can't see engines internals

Powershift

Could it be a faulty lifter??

If you have the old oil, you could have it analyzed for metals. That might tell you something.

Otherwise try some STP (remember this ) or perhaps a 20W-50 oil and see if things improve.

You might pull the valve covers and check to see if anything is amiss. Same with the oil pan.

Larry

jim lockwood

If you really, really suspect something serious is wrong with the engine, this should be your first step.

A knocking sound could have lots of causes. One, for example, is a failing engine-mounted fuel pump. The sound of one of these is similar to a rod knock and it comes from down low in the engine.

Best to do some good detective work before you do needless work.... like pulling the engine.

Jim

wmf62

except for nostalgia, there is no good reason to not use the latest new technology. pull the old engine and set it aside; a new crate engine is the easiest and best choice.

Bill

Powershift

But we don't know yet if it is even broken.

Don't get too far ahead of the rest of us.

Larry

Kerrmudgeon

Fuel pumps can cause a knocking sound that's hard to pin down as well.

TCracingCA

Literally go get a section of rubber hose and put it to your ear and find where it is! I like big hose, so I get it around the whole ear canal! Or a stethoscope!

I personally would just just take off the valve covers and check push rods, rockers etc! And I would next just drop the oil pan! Cut the oil filter apart and things like that! I hope it isn't like a fuel pump rod or other fooling you! Is it constant or does it increase with rpms?

wmf62

true, time will tell... BUT it seems more than a coincidence that it started after an oil change; but then, coincidences do happen...

I certainly wouldn't put $4k in rebuilding an old engine... (my LT1 is sitting in an engine cradle, a ZZ4 is sitting in the car... :-))


Bill

claysmoker

With the engine warmed up, pull one plug wire at a time and see if the knocking changes or stops completely.

Does it sound worse when its cold vs. hot? If it makes a lot of noise cold, could be piston slap.

Mikado463

FireMedic, I'm bumin' for you as well, follow the precautionary suggestions listed beforehand and hopefully a easier outcome will prevail ......... if not, you'll establish 'your' clean slate for your '62

Procrastination Racing

Before we get too carried away on pulling the engine, check some things first.

1. What engine is in the car? In cold weather, forged pistons will make some noise while warming up and those who have never seen or heard them can think they have a rod knocking.

2. PO rebuilt the engine, go ask him what he did, what he used, and who did the actual build. What clearances did he go for? The builder may stand behind it with such little use.

Many "rebuild" an engine by polishing the crank and installing stock bearings if the crank looks good and doesn't need turning. Of course, they may have .003" to .005" clearance. Then they do something like hang a "high volume" oil pump on to put enough flow to fill the gap. later, someone else freshens it up, and decides to get rid of the high volume pump, and suddenly, you have excess slop in the rod ends.


3. Oil analysis is needed like everyone has said.

4. What gas do you have? Could you have too low of octane and you have spark knock and not rod knock?

5. What oil did he run and what oil are you running? If he has been running 10W40 because he left .004 inch clearance, and you decide to run 5W30, yes, it is going to knock.

6. Original engines that come out of cars and sit in the corner rarely get reunited. That is fine if you are 30, plan on living to 100, and never selling the car. But most don't and the original engine car will take a hit because of the work to really make it "all-original" if you sell.

7. Start it up and watch the oil gauge. Does it fluctuate?

Firemedic1966

I appreciate the replies...and believe me, HOPING its something simple, but have heard rod knock before and have had several mechanic friends listen with a stethoscope...do the ER doctor glance down thing "got to remember I am a paramedic" and look up with a sad expression and say...yeah, its rod knock.

So I will do the cylinder cancel move...and will post replies. Spoke to PO and he is acting shocked...and who knows? Maybe he didn't know. He stated before he used 10-30 pennsoil. I put brad penn 10-40 in it and didnt see anything crazy with engine oil (already discarded oil) It is very faint on start up, and as the engine warms up it get louder. It a dull thud thud thud at idle, sounds like exhaust leak...but Its constant and disappears at higher RPM. I'm afraid to run the engine any longer than I have to due to being afraid of damaging the motor further.

its a 327-300 HP motor with a 4 speed. Clutch has a slight chatter, but to me "and hoped the sound was clutch related" but is constant with clutch in and out. I pulled inspection cover and checked crank shaft end play and feeler gauge was at .012

At cold start up, oil pressure is 50/60 and constant until warm up. After warm up oil pressure is at least 30. I can always pull valve covers/pan and may just do it just to make sure

Firemedic1966

And crate vs rebuild...I have used a shop in the past that has done excellent work and nothing but goid things around the car community. Yes, there is shop X that is cheaper by $1000..but one friend had a motor completely assembled by them and crank snapped in 10 miles...another had horrible blow by issues and rings were not installed correctly. Did shop x give a guarantee? You betcha! But what about your labor-gaskets-fluids-time-frustration?

sure...its a 327-300...Debating a 355-375 horse from blueprint engines in ohio $3100 delivered, dynoed, and plug and play vs about $4200 for my numbers matching engine...I have read very good things about this builder. but...

one of the main reasons I bought the car was because it was #'s matching engine. Is the car perfect? No...but, A friend that owns a restoration shop walked around the car several times after I bought it and doesn't hold back. To him...its a very nice car. Paint is very nice/chrome stainless/interior/top/etc. new wiring/a lot of correctness to it.

So I'm at the "what do I do?" Sure...pull the engine, put in a 375hp 355 and have fun! BUT...Like I said again..then I have the original engine on a stand, and it still has a knock. I like the car, and I don't

Firemedic1966

Sorry...damn Iphone
I really dont see selling the car, BUT if the day ever comes...here is a car with a rebuilt-balanced 327 born with engine with all receipts on rebuild....I have read posts where C1 owners that don't have their numbers matching engine wish-wish-wish they could find it. Not saying everyone does...but if you were in the market...Here is a nice 62. Powerfull crate motor and original is on stand...do you go thru trouble of buying the car and going thru trouble of getting engine and leaving it on a stand forever? Or just buy one with a proper rebuild?

wmf62

I don't want to open the 'originality' can of worms again, but "balanced/blueprinted/etc" don't necessarily fit the mould either....

a GM ZZ4 or ZZ383 or an aftermarket assembled engine are a better value in the driver niche today...

IMHO

Bill

wraplock

I've had two motors rebuilt, the original 283 in my 60 and a 350 4 bolt main for my 56 Belair hotrod. Two different shops where use, both with good local references. Neither cost me over $2300. with all machine work and new parts included. Crank was cut .010 and polished, new bearings, rebuilt rods, bored .030 over with new H/E pistons and rings, timing gear set, Crane cam kit, cam bearings, oil pump, 3 angle valve job and assembly. Now these prices where 6 or 7 years ago, factor in the higher New York labor rates and I think your rebuild prices should be closer to mine.

Frankie the Fink

$4,000 for a rebuild of a 'meat and potatoes' Chevy small block with no major issues is excessive IMO.

1955 copper

Carbon build up on top of the piston will sound like a bad rod

hedgehead

save and additional grand by doing your own assembly.