KENS78SILVERANNIV

All this talk of putting a in a 5 speed is fine. Just realize it will cost roughly double the cost of putting in a Muncie. Good Luck.

ptjsk

Yep...nothing wrong with the old Muncie!

Especially if you're like most of us (again, most of us), these car's see limited use.

Pat

Frankie the Fink

I would price out getting all the original parts quoted in post #4 along with the transmission/shifter etc.....it could be an eye opener vs buying a complete kit.

I put a 5 speed OD behind my original 283 and it was a killer combination Tremec TKO 600 and 3.7 peg leg rear. Cruising at 70 and 75 was a fast idle and I also got a 'deeper' first gear out of it too..

Lotsacubes

Your SST quote in post #17 must include installation. Frankie's post above is on the money since we have 3.70 also. Yes, I spent a little over 5K including install... worth every penny. Love the SST shifter adapter. I just wanted to add that I didn't like the stock clutch, pp, and throwout. If you go with SST (I recommend them) upgrade those components. I replaced with Centerforce Dual Friction. The base clutch components are not worthy of the SST transmission.

sub006

Draga racers LOVE aluminum Powerglides. I had a Turbo 350 INSTALLED in exchange for mine long ago.

0Tech@HurstDrivelines

Hey, Nick Martorano
We have a awesome C2 Vette TKO 5 speed kit that requires no mods to the tunnel of the car. We can get you a kit between 4k-5k. Let me know if you have any questions.
http://www.hurst-drivelines.com/kit/...WITH%20CONSOLE

Steve
Hurst Drivelines
707-544-4761 EXT452

58n65

That's my problem now. The Muncie I have in my 65 is out of a 63....or at least the casting number says so.

I'm at the point of either rebuilding it or buying a different transmission. Went back and forth but I'm leaning to rebuilding it and going with it, even though it's not original.

Thanks,
58n65

Frankie the Fink

The '63 Muncies are considered the 'weakest' of the breed (I have one); maybe there are rebuilding techniques to make them stronger but, if you flog the car much, you might want to consider something else...

GTOguy

X2....the stronger Muncie's are '66-up. But even the 'weak' early ones are an improvement over the T-10 of that vintage. Iron mid-plates can help a lot. Most of these cars are no longer abused like they once were, though.

ptjsk

After blowing 2nd gear in my T=10, I picked up a rebuilt Muncie for $650.00.

I did know the guy who had it built for his car, but he then decided to go with an automatic. So I was comfortable with the purchase.

Have had it in my car for several years now and it has performed very well, and I don't treat it lightly.

Curious though, I'll have to see what year it is.

I still would like the M-22. I'm sure I'll come across one sometime when I least expect it.

Pat

Nick Martorano

Thank you all for your comments. I am in the process of pricing both ways.....Muncie and TKO. I think I will go with a hydraulic clutch if I go with the TKO.

Nick Martorano

Steve,
I will try to call tomorrow to discuss my transmission and get some pricing from you.
Thanks
Nick

Nowhere Man

Don't over complicate things with a hydraulic clutch.

jules-57

I have been mulling this idea (PG to M21 or 2) for a while now, and culled some items from various threads to form this list. Hope it helps.

M20 4-speed Transmission
3.36 Gear
3.36 rear with 2.56 1st gear works fine

- Flywheel & special bolts
- Pilot bushing
- Clutch Pressure Plate & Disc & special bolts
- Bellhousing, bolts & Fork Stud
- Throwout bearing & moly lube
- Clutch fork & boot
- Transmission & bolts
- Shifter & linkage & bolts
- Speedo cable & clips & 2-hole grommet
- Manual console plate & shift pattern plate
- Shift boot & retainer plate
- Brake & clutch pedals & pads, bushings & pushrod bracket & bolts
- Clutch pedal pushrod, spacer & retainer clip
- Clutch cross shaft assembly & engine-side stud
- Pedal pushrod swivel & jam nuts
- Pedal pushrod boot & screws
- Return spring & retainer at dash
- Lower fork pushrod, hardware & anti-rattle springs
- Backup light switch, bracket & wiring

Nick Martorano

That's a lot of parts to source out! Not cheap in any case. Seems easier to buy a complete kit. Is there a vendor out there that sells a complete kit to swap to a Muncie M-21 or 22? Or is it just better to go with a TKO 500 or 600?

409/409

I did the same thing about 3 years ago to my '66. I sourced almost all parts from swap meets and Ebay for about 900.00. I bought a '67 M-20 from a friend for 600.00. A few minor new reproduction parts (springs, fork boot, nuts, bolts etc.) new flywheel and clutch kit. I did all the work myself and spent a total of about 1650.00. You would never know it wasn't factory installed. I sold the complete powerglide change over for 500.00. Total invested, less than 1200.00. It can be done without selling the farm.

ptjsk

You definitely completed the swap in the most sensible, as well as economic way.

Pat

GearheadJoe

I totally agree that if you are going to replace the Powerglide with another transmission, the replacement should be a transmission with an overdrive.

If you want to stay with an automatic, two strong contenders would be the 700R4 or the 2004R 4-speed automatics. A company called Bowtie Overdrives makes kits for these swaps.

If you want to switch to a manual, the cost will be higher because you need to add the clutch and all the related parts. However, the Tremec TKO-600 5-speed is a great solution.

For my ’67 Powerglide Vette, I carefully researched both the 4-speed automatic and 5-speed Tremec options. Both options give you a lower first gear than the Muncie (better launch), and a higher top gear than the Muncie (lower cruise rpm). To me, this is the best of both worlds.

One way to understand the advantages of having the extra gear can be illustrated by comparing the overall gear ratios for first gear and top gear. My TKO-600 has a lower first gear than a Muncie close-ratio trans, and a higher top gear. The 4-speed automatics are the same way.

So, with a 3.70 rear end ratio, my first gear is equivalent to a close ratio Muncie with a 4.88 rear, but my fifth gear is equivalent to a close-ratio Muncie with a 3.08 rear. To me, this is the best of both worlds compared to trying to select a compromise rear end ratio for use with a Muncie.

If you are going to go through the time and expense of replacing the Powerglide, I highly recommend switching to an overdrive transmission (either automatic or manual). Feel free to PM me if you want to discuss the details. I did a lot of research on both the automatics and manuals before I made my swap.

The change to an overdrive transmission was the best modification I have ever made to my ’67. I am very, very happy with the results.