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Getting Rid of Powerglide

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Old 10-11-2016, 08:04 AM
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Nick Martorano
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Default Getting Rid of Powerglide

I am looking to switch out my Powerglide in my 1966 Coupe to a M-21 or M-22 and wanted to know if anyone can tell me if I will need a new driveshaft? Shorter or longer? Also will need a clutch pedal assembly and need to know where the best place to get one.

Thank you all for your help.

Last edited by Nick Martorano; 10-11-2016 at 02:11 PM.
Old 10-11-2016, 08:13 AM
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Frankie the Fink
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Ya think maybe the year car your working on might be helpful ?
C1s and C2s are COMPLETELY different in clutch geometry, drive shaft configuration and other areas.
Old 10-11-2016, 08:25 AM
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R66
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Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink
Ya think maybe the year car your working on might be helpful ?
C1s and C2s are COMPLETELY different in clutch geometry, drive shaft configuration and other areas.
Looks like it may be a 66 coupe per his profile Frankie. I've never done a C2 conversion, so I'll leave it to you.
Old 10-11-2016, 08:40 AM
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66jack
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You'll need...and this is all based on year of your car...this is just some of what you'll need...

flywheel, clutch and clutch fork, zbar/cross shaft, upper and lower clutch rods, firewall spring/mount/lower anti rattle springs, bell housing, brake and clutch pedals, attaching mechanism and small parts for upper rod to pedal...

:::EDIT:::

Pilot bushing, Starter

Last edited by 66jack; 10-11-2016 at 11:02 AM.
Old 10-11-2016, 08:40 AM
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Trkdrvr
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I would go rock crusher.(M22) it's a beast! Had a camaro back in the 80s,with 600+ hp.stock trans,was the only part that survived
Old 10-11-2016, 08:42 AM
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wmf62
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if I was changing transmissions nowadays, I would go with something that has an overdrive.....

Bill
Old 10-11-2016, 08:43 AM
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Pay extra for a overdrive trans and don't look back.
Old 10-11-2016, 10:09 AM
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As long as we own our '66 the M21 will sit in a box after the SST TKO600 swap. You look in our car and you'd never know the M21's gone. Huge step up in cruising enjoyment. And, no, don't care to sell the M21.
Old 10-11-2016, 10:14 AM
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jet-tech
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I went from a PG to a 3-speed TH350. Got bored with the TH350 and switched to a 5-speed manual Tremec TKO-500 tranny from SST. Their "PerfectFit" package comes with a driveshaft. You will still need to find many other parts like a Bell housing, clutch, Z-bar, pedals and bracket, rods, springs and more. Best upgrade I've bone so far. That and A/C. Tim
Old 10-11-2016, 10:39 AM
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Agree with others who recommended a 5speed...not trying to spend your $$$, but since you are there...

Car year? Small block or big block? Horsepower/tq of current engine?

M22 is cool...but a 5 speed is way better and significantly improves drivability and practicality.

Besides, you will be into the same amount of parts either way you go...of course, a bit more money for the 5 speed BUT money well spent.

Cheers,
Old 10-11-2016, 10:51 AM
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Frankie the Fink
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I believe most of the vendors offer an automatic to 5 speed overdrive transmission kit which would take care of everything (mostly) -- you get extra benefit over a Muncie but it ain't cheap.
Old 10-11-2016, 12:50 PM
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cardo0
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Nick you should look at your block first to see if it has the hole drilled and tapped for the clutch pivot ball/Z-bar stud. And the frame needs a tab to hold the other end of the Z-bar - it should be there but you should check. The block hole would be directly across from this tab. Drilling one with the block in the car would be very difficult though I think possible. Maybe an angle drill could fit in there but even if so accuracy would be poor.

Next option would be hydraulic clutch - yes even more headaches.

Good luck.
Old 10-11-2016, 02:11 PM
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Nick Martorano
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Originally Posted by Nick Martorano
I am looking to switch out my Powerglide in my 1966 Coupe to a M-21 or M-22 and wanted to know if anyone can tell me if I will need a new driveshaft? Shorter or longer? Also will need a clutch pedal assembly and need to know where the best place to get one.

Thank you all for your help.
Sorry! 1966 Coupe
Old 10-11-2016, 02:35 PM
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I am not 100% sure but even though you have a Powerglide, I think your frame has the clutch bracket mount in place from the factory...so for a mechanical clutch application, the zbar and linkage will all bolt up. FYI...The vendors who offer the auto-5speed kits use a hydraulic setup.

I've done hydraulic...not worth it to me...doable, but a PITA to setup...take the money, buy the mechanical linkage and go...all the parts are readily available from any corvette parts vendor...
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Old 10-11-2016, 03:01 PM
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Nick Martorano
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By the way.....car is a 327/300 hp that has been punched out .040 with Edlebrock intake and 600 cfm carb. Not sure of how much torque it has.

I have priced out the TKO 600 from Silver Sport and would like to go that route as I have plans to do an LS3 or LS7 swap at some point. But really I think this little 327 runs great and would be a lot more fun with either a 4 or 5 speed to a point that I don't need to do the LS swap! Thoughts??
Old 10-11-2016, 03:23 PM
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Crunch527
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oh boy...not much comparison with a bored-over-anything 327 and an LS motor...

The 5 speed will make the driving more fun for sure...so would adding a built 383 or a 406 while you are at it.

Part of it comes down to how much money do you want to throw at the car?

An LS swap costs about 10K in parts maybe more, with you doing the work...fuel, electrical, gas pedal, cooling, exhaust, pulleys, clutch, bell housing, etc, etc, etc...all doable, but to what end? Not dinging the guys who do the LS swap...its definitely the cats meow, but it takes a bit of effort and time.

Alternatively, a built 383 or 406 will bolt in over a weekend and have tons of power...500 range...it won't be like an LS motor either but it will be tons of fun in its own right.

Again, just depends on how much money you want to spend and what you want out of the car...
Old 10-11-2016, 05:36 PM
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Nick Martorano
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an LS3 crate motor is +/-$6500 plus accessory drive +/-$2500, wiring harness/computer $1500, headers $900-1200......it gets spendy very quickly. Then the TKO 600 is about $5500-6500 (I think is what I was quoted) so a guy could spend $20 grand in a minute to do the complete swap and that is doing it himself! I can do all of the work myself but I just do not have the time right now.

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Old 10-11-2016, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Nick Martorano
an LS3 crate motor is +/-$6500 plus accessory drive +/-$2500, wiring harness/computer $1500, headers $900-1200......it gets spendy very quickly. Then the TKO 600 is about $5500-6500 (I think is what I was quoted) so a guy could spend $20 grand in a minute to do the complete swap and that is doing it himself! I can do all of the work myself but I just do not have the time right now.
yep...
Old 10-11-2016, 07:09 PM
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ack fia
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Default 66 PG to Manual TX

I did a similar transition back in the day. Bubba had changed the original Muncy to a PG. What I found out (the hard way) is that a peddle assembly from a 67 will not work in a 66. I don't know about the 63 to 65's.
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Old 10-11-2016, 09:34 PM
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Not an LS fan in early cars, but that's just me. The period small blocks run so well, and are bulletproof. If you have a 3.08-3.23-3.36 rear gear, the Muncie would be just fine. I like the way they shift better than the new 5 speeds. On the other hand, since you're changing everything to go manual, a 5 speed conversion makes the most sense. Leave the original motor, and stick a 5 speed in it, and you'll love it. Guaranteed.
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