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Power glide question

Old 10-21-2016, 07:47 AM
  #21  
Frankie the Fink
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All of the above is good advice (especially the U-joint remarks). Once dialed-in the PG 'slide and glide' are damn near bullet proof and a choice of drag racers for decades...
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William Buckley (10-21-2016)
Old 10-21-2016, 08:25 AM
  #22  
William Buckley
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Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink
All of the above is good advice (especially the U-joint remarks). Once dialed-in the PG 'slide and glide' are damn near bullet proof and a choice of drag racers for decades...

This is true, but if the thing is not right, the answer is to get someone who knows what is going on to fix it. I learned the hard way.
Old 10-21-2016, 09:51 AM
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rtruman
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Originally Posted by William Buckley
Thanks for the flow of information. I mistakenly left the car with a shop that said they knew about adjustment and repair of the vacuum modulator. When pulling the unit out, they dropped a piece of the control rod down in my transmission pan. It has gone downhill from there. Without that working I had to drive the car with REALLY BAD shifting problems to an NCRS certified shop that I found. He has the car now. Lesson learned .... only use someone that really knows what they are talking about!
Got mine dialed in you will be happy when its right completely different ride.
Old 10-21-2016, 02:41 PM
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Fawndeuce
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Thanks for the good input.
My '62 has always shifted hard into reverse, I have fiddled with it since I've owned it, if I lower the idle enough then it just stalls.



Paul
Old 10-22-2016, 01:09 AM
  #25  
seb67
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Not sure about the Powerglide, but in a TH350 or 400, the modulator controls the 1-2, and I believe the 2-3, up-shift based on vacuum signal. At WOT, the signal is low keeping the transmission from making an up-shift until a higher vacuum signal occurs. If you have your foot in the throttle for whatever reason, the engine will therefore not lug in an improper gear. I'm also not sure about what the Belleville washer is that is being referred to, but in the clutch-packs, there is usually a waved steel plate. As the clutch applies, the spring action of the waved plate softens the shift as the high points contact the clutch disks and compress to make complete contact. The only problem with this in a performance vehicle, is that softer compression of the clutch-pack can create additional heat which is the bane of automatic transmissions. If you are experiencing a firm up-shift, there is less likelihood that you will be generating a large amount of heat from friction and the life of the clutches should be extended. In a racing or high performance transmission, a solid shift is welcomed. In the family van, you want a softer shift so you don't knock the dog over every time the transmission shifts. The mechanical connection between the carburetor and transmission forces a downshift when WOT occurs.


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