LB66383

I've been running Hella H4s (low beam) without a relay for several years. Of course, I also put all new wiring harnesses throughout the car at about the same time. I recently added rectangular driving lights, mounted under the front bumpers, driven through a relay. With the halogen H4 headlights, it's a big improvement. The advantage of lights with separate halogen bulbs (H4s, H3s, H1s) is that you can you can install brighter, whiter bulbs -- 4000-4200 Kelvin or higher. Haven't done it to the C2 yet, but did on my C4 and it was a huge improvement. These old eyes need all the help they can get. They don't see through the dark like they used to.

Frankie the Fink

Here is the consideration for the upgrade, and an argument for relays. Any lighting solution that draws more current can stress the wiring, but more likely, it'll overheat the headlight switch and cause the thermal internal relay to trip and the lights will begin 'strobing' in 'limp' mode. This seems to occur more often with repro switches.

Some seem to get away without the relays, others have to install them to take the load off the dash switch...its a roll of the dice...

kolsen911

Thanks for all the input. I upgraded the lights on my 72 Porsche 911 and sure enough burnt out the switch. I then did the upgrade with the relays and power right off the battery. I'll have to review that wiring for the Vette.

mrg

Here's an article and wiring diagram that was used to convert over to headlight relays on my '64.
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http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/images/HeadlightRelayWiringDiagram.jpg
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http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/WiringHeadlightRelays.htm
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claf

I've done the upgrade to the latest/best Sylvania halogens (all four) AND the relay trick and the lights are still crap especially on low beam. Whatever you try don't expect miracles ! Been there, done that.

SDVette

I don't know what you are comparing them to... Maybe a modern car. But when you start with non-halogens, it IS a dramatic improvement just to go to halogens.

Frankie the Fink

People need to do some homework:

http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...adlights.shtml

Halogens and relays won't help if you have corroded connectors or degraded wiring....a check of the voltage at the headlights should tell the tale...

A 10% voltage drop at the headlight connectors can cause up to a 30% reduction in illumination...the relationship is non-linear...

Goldduster

I have seen some advertisements for LED headlights which draw a lot less. Would these work or would the same problem exist?

SDVette

There is no work-around for corroded wire and connectors... However, __theoretically__ LEDs would draw significantly less current, thus not be susceptible to voltage drop issues, eliminating the need for relays.

But are they ready for prime time?? Anyone using them?

Frankie the Fink

IIRC somebody on here modified their headlight bucket brackets to accept some expensive LED lights; they may have also modified the connectors. A lot of trouble and money for night driving and how much do any of us do that ? And that still doesn't address corroded connectors or aged wiring....

63Corvette

They are dim because they are 53 years old! I had mine go out completely at Sebring, in a night enduro. I would have given anything to have those old, dim lights back on...even for a minute.

claf

Let me clarify what I wrote on thread #25. I stand on my statement that the improvement is not that great. What bugs me is the transition from "pretty good" high beams to only "slightly better" low beams. Lets face it, most of us spend the majority of our night driving in low beam mode where the improvement is incrementally small.

SDVette

That does not match my experience.

My car sat for 35 years. The bulbs in the car were off-the-shelf headlights from about 1975. They worked, but very poorly. Halogens improved the illumination dramatically. I still have incandescent bulbs in the hi-beam positions as the improvement in the low beams was so great, I never bothered to install the halogens I purchased.

I still have the old bulbs from 1975 if you'd like to give them a try?

davekp78

Any recommendations for a plug-and-play relay kit?

Vettrocious

LED lights are available for about $60. They're made for a Harley. They require some bracket rework, but the wiring is the same and they draw the same power as stock sealed beams.

The 63 that I'm building will be driven a lot, even at night, so these are a valuable add, for a small cost, when you consider you'll never burn one out. I've not driven it on the street yet, but my testing demonstrates that it will it will be much brighter, a much better, well focussed, light.

In fact, replacing only the outboard lights with these hi-lo beam bulbs negates the need for the inboard lights. The low beams alone, without the brights on, are better than both hi and lo sealed beam bulbs put together.

I might also add that the Detroit Speed headlight motors are awesome. They turn in about a second, with just one switch, that turns them on and flips them into position at the same time....

Frankie the Fink

Mad Electric sells relay kits and a few others; nothing I would call 'plug and play'; you'll still be adding connectors and the like. If you're slick you can do the job from the dimmer switch and not butcher any original wiring..

Goldduster

I'm also interested, where did you get them and what kind of bracket rework was needed.

Vettrocious

Got them on Amazon for $54 each at this link:

https://www.amazon.com/Daymaker-Proj...+headlightsGot

You'll need to rework the brackets as well as trim some of the fins on the back of the light. When I get mine done, I'll post pics of the install here.

SDVette

Maybe on a C2 where they hide away... but those would look pretty 'Buck Rogers' on a C1

NightshiftHD

Or you can buy the same thing from your local Harley store under part #67700144A for $400 ... you decide which is a better deal. This one is surely to come in a nice black & orange box though.

Here's a little comparison HD did between this LED projector bulb and a traditional halogen bulb (which is already many times brighter than a T3). Bill