deejaydu

You nailed it. Great job

ohpoppy

I wonder if I should continue here on further problems that come up.. well here I go.

the vin on this car is 40867S108845, I need to determine whether it is early or late

the door handles.. a previous owner bondo-ed over the handle area. I removed the the bondo carefully hoping to find the underneath ready for handles but no such luck. It looks to me that handles were recessed into the door, not laying on a flat door. It also looks like he ground down below the handles into the lock area. Please look at the photo and tell me what he did and how to repair it. I suspect I need early handles and i can use them as a guide to determine where the recess actually should be and surrounding area should be brought back up. I suspect the door lock is not recessed but please tell me if it is. as a matter of record I only use quality resin and cloth in these type of repairs, more time consuming but I want to avoid outlines as the car ages.

ohpoppy

I determined my handles should be a early 64.. which has a 4 screw step plate.

Chuck Gongloff

If you have an early 64... depending on HOW early, you might need the door handle "pads" which are part of the fiberglass under each end of the door handle. Also continues to the lock bezel.

This is one of the doors from my 63.

Chuck Gongloff

Read this thread. Nice close up of an early 64 in post #29. Also a nice photo of Frankie's car on the first page.. both showing the door handle "pads".

Later 64's through 67's didn't have them.

Different doors use different door handles too.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...64-67-a-2.html

Chuck Gongloff

NCRS Judging Guide says all 63's and 64's up to VIN 15000 had the doors with the pads for the handles.

Your car is 8845, so you fall into the padded door category.

ohpoppy

I will contact Sermerseim corvette for the repair inserts.. thanks

ohpoppy

Sermerseim is out of stock and may be for some time. Anyone know of another supplier??

Chuck Gongloff

Try Corvette Image fiberglass.

What exactly are you looking for? Do you want just the pads, or do you want a door skin?

Didn't know anyone made just the door handle pads.

ohpoppy

I think they are called pads.. the pieces that need to be glassed in to create the raised areas for the door handles Seimersheim calls them handle area patches

ohpoppy

got the door pad from Seimersheim. They look great and the owner and his daughter are great people and were very helpful. Now I need to install them..

Another question, I'm working on the tail. The top edge of the quarters, how do they meet the rear panel. does the point end before the rear panel or show a slight "V" on the the rear panel edge. if it ends before, how much before. I installed new quarters on this car, quarters were prepared for flairs which I dislike.

DUB

YES.... the 'point' as you are calling it does NOT go all the way to the end of the panel edge. Because the taillight panel area that is AFTER the bonding gap area has no defined body 'point ' in it..

SO...the 'point' washes out a little bit before the bonding seam. It is very similar to how the front end body line does the same thing.

Trying to give you an exact measurement...in my opinion is kinda pointless. The idea is to 'feel' the a panel and it will tell you where it ends...because if someone does give you a measurement...it will be about impossible for you to achieve what they gave you due to you do not know where they exactly measured to....if that makes sense. Get it so it feels good when you run your hand on both sides. That is what I do and when I get one done...you can not tell.

DUB

ohpoppy

seems logical.. as you know that edge is really part of the rear center panel not the quarter. I checked them before I hollowed out the seam of the rear panel (to glass over so it would stay concealed) and it just hit the rear panel and ended. didn't seem right to me. I have to do the front as well. lots of glass work but nearly done, just fine tuning. thanks

DUB

To each his/her own.

There is an easier way and that is extremely effective for making the seams not show up that does NOT require laminating in mat and resin. Been doing it for over 30 years and not one seam has showed itself.

DUB

ohpoppy

tell me.. I believe the gray 3m panel bonding adhesive will work, they say it works but I would hate bto find out 2o years from now it is failing. The idea of all glass is reassuring. tell me though.

I used the bonding adhesive to attach the quarters. Made it smooth and nice then hollowed out along the line and glassed it shut. It is a 2 hour job per seam after smoothing it. the longboard cuts through the 100% glass like butter.

DUB

Vette Panel Adhesive (VPA) made by Evercoat. Gallon can is part number 100880...quart is 100870.

There are tricks to using it.

READ post # 292. It is something I wrote and she saved.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...roject-15.html

If you still have questions...PM me....or ask the question on your thread. Depending on what the answer will be will determine if I type it out or we talk on the phone.

DUB

ohpoppy

yeah I know, I think thats what I'm using, not the 3m.. I have to look at the can. 50 a quart, strong like iron. left some on a pallet before I could get to it, through the pallet away since it was so hard to grind off. you have to be speedy gonzolas to get the quarter on before it sets. set the kitchen counter for 8 minutes and waited for a cooler day.

still I glassed over it even though it looked great..

DUB

One again...not preaching or trying to make you do it my way...I am just saying that if you used the VPA.....then you know how strong that stuff is...that is all I am saying.

The can looks like this:



DUB

ohpoppy

it's what I'm using Dub.. I was mistaken about the brand. I'll use it on the lows on the door instead of body filler.

Anybody have a photo of the tunnel inside the car looking straight down (no shifter) and shifter and boot framemy shifter is a hurst that mounts to a frame attached to the transmission I believe these cars came with Muncie shifters which I will likely install... but in any case, the fiberglass hole where the shifter attaches has been burchered. Some is ok and other areas are broken over with original pieces still present and others missing. With a good photo and a correct shifter and other componants I should be able to reconstruct the area.

those door handle repair pieces look great installed. great product.

ohpoppy

i think I understand it all. if I buy boot retainer all I'll need to do is close up the entire tunnel with glass and then attach the boot retainer.. then cut out the glass by the retainer holes. I found a photo online that directs me as to how the tunnel looks in front of the boot retainer.

I wonder why he cut up so far forward. the hurst shifter is still attached to the trans and the attachment mount is at the tailhead. maybe this trans was not in my car and a previous owner did something else.

WHY IS THE INPUT SHAFT SO FAR FORWARD.. DOES THAT LOOK NORMAL? MAYBE the shifter mounts to the frame next to the universal, is that the case? and that would explain why the hole is so far forward. he mounted the hurst way up forward.