DUB

If your driveshaft is installed in the rear differential..I can say...that your drive shaft looks WAY TOO LONG.

It is so long that if your pulled the driveshaft to the rear of the car...the tip of your yoke would barely be able to be seen poking out from under the fiberglass panel there.

I have repaired many area that were severely cut out by some Bozo who did not know how to use a tape measure. So...if you need any help....if you feel you need any advice.....PM me and I would be more than glad to help you. Because do not forget that GM put all those curves and contours in this area to actually strengthen this area structurally...and this is noticeable where they cut out all the fiberglass forward of where the shifter should actually be....instead of this area being a flat piece of fiberglass.

DUB

ohpoppy

I'll check the driveshaft but I believe it is correct.
I think the shifter is mounted to the side of the universal but I will discover the answer when i install the engine/trans. I will remove the driveshaft at the rear and when i install it I'll then discover if it is too long,

as far as the tunnel, the boot retainer is fastened on top of the tunnel.. is there a similar metal frame underneath, what I mean is the fiberglass sandwiched between the boot retainer and metal underneath. the car came with these parts missing, i need to determine what to get.

I found this link that includes photos that will enable me to reproduce the fiberglass, I'll need the fasteners for the dash bottom or whatever they attach to. I'll try to find them on this site or I'll reproduce them the best I can which will be good.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...n-my-64-a.html



i think I should be googling the before asking here.. I found Seimerseim Corvette sells a repair panel. panel is quite large so pricy.. maybe I can find a smaller one or fabricate it myself.

DUB

YES...there is metal plate that is riveted to the floor pan so the metal retainer on the top surface gets screwed to it with Phillips head machine screws.

As for buying this panel from anybody....honestly....with the photos of the thread you found...and having the metal retainers in hand....I would be able to laminate in fiberglass mat and resin. And knowing that I do not possess super powers or anything like that. I fell you could do the same thing. Seriously I do. All it takes is being patient and getting your set-up correct. But then again..I do possess a lot of patience.

If I had a transmission tunnel panel for that year model I could make a splash mold off of it and send it to you...but I don't. I do have one for a 1969... but not a 1963-1967.

If you get to a point where this is 'gettign in you head' and you need someone to real you back in to reality...just ask.

DUB

ohpoppy

it will be fine.. I do have the patience and skill to make it right. the raised block is partially there.. I could carve a piece of soap to fit there and even duplicate that block. most of it is just flat, fastening cardboard with wax paper over it and glass away. I remember back in the 80's I copied body parts for a 308 ferrari. nobody could afford what they charged for new ones. there is a 77 308GTB out there that has a checkered past.

the other option is pay 300 for a new piece. maybe seimersheim will chharge me less, they were reasonable on the door handle pads.

ohpoppy

I think I messed up on the lower front quarter panels.

I suspect if one runs a yard stick flat against the door bottom into that short area in front of the rear wheel opening.. I believe it should be a straight line. mine is tucked in a little. please confirm..

DUB

I need to see what you are referring to on your car....via a good photo.

DUB

ohpoppy

its a screw-up.. The door should have been perfectly lined up before I bonded the quarter panel. stupidly I assumed the bonding strips could be trusted to keep it all lined up. I'll have to break the tire side loose from the bonding strip and refasten it in the correct position. I wish I used kitty hairs instead of corvette adhesive.

DUB

You 'say' that now...but you would really be cussing later when more problem could start to show them selves becasue you did you the wrong adhesive.

Heat can aid you in getting the section off.

I can see the area you are referring to but not the extent of how bad it is....unless you just do not want to post a photo of the actual issue....which is your choice to do so.

DUB

ohpoppy

I fixed it... it was off 1/8" ..of course your right, that adhesive is terrific.

I'm just not experienced on these cars. I'm restoring it for myself, normally I sell my projects.

DUB

YES...but it does not take too long for your experience to increase. Glad to read that you got it repaired.

DUB

ohpoppy

hey Dub.. if you're there

I have to reproduce the lip on the front body area directly in front of the hood, can you give me a measurement and a photo of the corner?

and is that drain hole factory, likely is but look awful, do people usually fill them and if so, would that drop the value of an original car?

DUB

AS for filling in the hole in the hood..that depends on what market you plan on selling the car in. If you are going for FACTORY PERFECT..then it needs to stay...because someone would surely point it out and want to beat you down on the price. If not...do as you wish.

I will check on those measurements for you....unless someone comes in and posts them.

DUB

ohpoppy

also need picture and lip measurement, if on, on center area. thanks