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Half-Shaft Gap

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Old 11-26-2016, 03:41 PM
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58n65
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Default Half-Shaft Gap

Correct me if I'm wrong but there shouldn't be a gap this wide for my half-shaft (driver's side) should it?




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58n65
Old 11-26-2016, 03:48 PM
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4 Speed Dave
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Originally Posted by 58n65
Correct me if I'm wrong but there shouldn't be a gap this wide for my half-shaft (driver's side) should it?




Thanks
58n65
Holy crap NO. it wouldn't surprise me at all if the snap ring is not even there.
Old 11-26-2016, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 4 Speed Dave
Holy crap NO. it wouldn't surprise me at all if the snap ring is not even there.
Thanks Dave!!!

Guess this is the next part of the project!!!

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58n65
Old 11-26-2016, 05:42 PM
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Donny Brass
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it's there, in the bottom somewhere.........

the stub axle is probably ground down past he groove.
Old 11-26-2016, 07:25 PM
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Is there a rebuild video or instructions for this? The half-shaft (yoke to diff.) gap on the passenger side is about a 1/3 of this.

Okay, I seen a picture of a yoke with the snap ring. How on earth do I put a new snap ring on? Do I have to open the differential up?

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58n65

Last edited by 58n65; 11-26-2016 at 08:08 PM.
Old 11-26-2016, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 58n65
Is there a rebuild video or instructions for this? The half-shaft (yoke to diff.) gap on the passenger side is about a 1/3 of this. Okay, I seen a picture of a yoke with the snap ring. How on earth do I put a new snap ring on? Do I have to open the differential up?
Thanks, 58n65
You can see the grooves where the snap rings should be. This is a rear I rebuilt for my 64 and the snap rings were both off allowing the shafts to move in and out. Notice how mushroomed each end of the shaft is.
After the rebuild I have .025" and .035 in and out play on the new shafts.
Joe


Old 11-26-2016, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by plaidside
You can see the grooves where the snap rings should be. This is a rear I rebuilt for my 64 and the snap rings were both off allowing the shafts to move in and out. Notice how mushroomed each end of the shaft is.
After the rebuild I have .025" and .035 in and out play on the new shafts.
Joe


Thanks Joe for that picture. I will begin to pull it apart this week to see what the ends of the yokes look like. Wonder why the snap rings would pop off like that? If they did, it's best that I open it to remove the old one(s).

BTW, my family, me, and several friends just got back from New York. Had a great time....seen the Statue of Liberty, went up the Empire State Building, my daughter skated at Rockefeller Center, went to Trump Tower and actually met Kelleyanne Conway (daughter has a selfie with her), and MANY more things.

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58n65
Old 11-26-2016, 09:38 PM
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why? because GM did a crappy job of heat treating the side yokes, that and the center pin is harder than the yokes
Old 11-26-2016, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by redvetracr
why? because GM did a crappy job of heat treating the side yokes, that and the center pin is harder than the yokes
I watched a rebuild video where the guy added a second snap ring to help with the extra play. I'm learning way more than I thought I would about these cars.

Thanks,
58n65
Old 11-27-2016, 07:18 AM
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I wasn't aware of this until another thread not too long ago but apparently there are various thickness C-clips that can be found to fine tune in the resulting half shaft play. If new yokes get it within reasonable play I'm not too sure how important it is for the average street driven car since the load of the suspension normally pre-loads the yoke against the center pin
Old 11-27-2016, 07:41 AM
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If you're going to tear it down to that level you might as well check out the rest of the rear end as well. These days it seems that most guys just order a rebuilt from a few reputable rebuilders. We ordered one from Texas? Differentials last summer for my bud's 68. And you can pick any ratio you want that way.
Old 11-27-2016, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by DansYellow66
I wasn't aware of this until another thread not too long ago but apparently there are various thickness C-clips that can be found to fine tune in the resulting half shaft play. If new yokes get it within reasonable play I'm not too sure how important it is for the average street driven car since the load of the suspension normally pre-loads the yoke against the center pin
Didn't realize that about the thickness. This guy used two snap rings....don't think the second one was in the groove so I'm not sure about that.

Thanks,
58n65
Old 11-27-2016, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Kerrmudgeon
If you're going to tear it down to that level you might as well check out the rest of the rear end as well. These days it seems that most guys just order a rebuilt from a few reputable rebuilders. We ordered one from Texas? Differentials last summer for my bud's 68. And you can pick any ratio you want that way.
Yeah, I'll do my best to tear it down and see what I can figure out....since it'll be open. I have a couple mechanic friends so I might get one of them to look at it.

Thanks,
58n65
Old 11-27-2016, 05:00 PM
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Can anyone positively identify the diff. for me? The number on the front side is 3876476-N and the number on the back side is 3871376.

And it has the red plastic tag that reads USE POSITRACTION DIFF LUBRICATION ONLY.

Thanks,
58n65

Last edited by 58n65; 11-27-2016 at 05:03 PM.
Old 11-27-2016, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by DansYellow66
I wasn't aware of this until another thread not too long ago but apparently there are various thickness C-clips that can be found to fine tune in the resulting half shaft play. If new yokes get it within reasonable play I'm not too sure how important it is for the average street driven car since the load of the suspension normally pre-loads the yoke against the center pin
That was probably me regarding the c-clips. I have Toms 30 spline stub axles and outer axles. You can only use C-clips on these 30 spline stub axles. And the way you set the stub shaft clearance between the end and the posi cross shaft is by using the correct thickness c-clip. This is only AFTER you get the posi clutches set up and shimmed properly.

Here is Toms corvette differential parts. I did the 1350 vette axle setup and used the correct 30 spline posi spider gears and steel bearing cap.

http://www.tomsdifferentials.com/201...Pages14-23.pdf
Old 11-27-2016, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 58n65
Can anyone positively identify the diff. for me? The number on the front side is 3876476-N and the number on the back side is 3871376.

And it has the red plastic tag that reads USE POSITRACTION DIFF LUBRICATION ONLY.

Thanks,
58n65

What numbers and letters are stamped on the bottom side of the rear case?? That will tell us more.

Larry
Old 11-27-2016, 06:00 PM
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The stamped information is what it is 'supposed' to have and does not mean that is what you have.

Simply spin the wheel ONE full revolution and count the number of times the pinion spins...that will tell you the axle ratio. So 3 full turns and a little more than half of a turn would be 3.55:1

I posted photos of it sometime ago...but if you replace your side yokes...make sure you also replace the center carrier pinion shaft where these side yokes contact and spin on....because it can wear also.

I have also repaired rear differential where I had to replace the case itself due to the side yoke wore down so much that the dust cone on it actually ate into the casting where the outer grease seal for the side yoke goes and ate it up so much there was no way to install a new seal...nothing for it to grab onto and hold.

DUB

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Old 11-27-2016, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by DUB
The stamped information is what it is 'supposed' to have and does not mean that is what you have.

Simply spin the wheel ONE full revolution and count the number of times the pinion spins...that will tell you the axle ratio. So 3 full turns and a little more than half of a turn would be 3.55:1

I posted photos of it sometime ago...but if you replace your side yokes...make sure you also replace the center carrier pinion shaft where these side yokes contact and spin on....because it can wear also.

I have also repaired rear differential where I had to replace the case itself due to the side yoke wore down so much that the dust cone on it actually ate into the casting where the outer grease seal for the side yoke goes and ate it up so much there was no way to install a new seal...nothing for it to grab onto and hold.

DUB
I agree....................but the "numbers" will at least tell what year and original gear ratio was there. ANYTHING can be changed on a 50+ year old car. Plan for it.



Larry
Old 11-27-2016, 10:19 PM
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58n65
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Originally Posted by Powershift
What numbers and letters are stamped on the bottom side of the rear case?? That will tell us more.

Larry
Larry,

The numbers look like "AM 6 15 66" or it could be "AM 6 151 66". It's hard to see since it's installed and I was in my church clothes trying to crawl under there....The wife will kill me for it but oh well.

Thanks,
Dex
Old 11-27-2016, 10:21 PM
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58n65
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Originally Posted by DUB
The stamped information is what it is 'supposed' to have and does not mean that is what you have.

Simply spin the wheel ONE full revolution and count the number of times the pinion spins...that will tell you the axle ratio. So 3 full turns and a little more than half of a turn would be 3.55:1

I posted photos of it sometime ago...but if you replace your side yokes...make sure you also replace the center carrier pinion shaft where these side yokes contact and spin on....because it can wear also.

I have also repaired rear differential where I had to replace the case itself due to the side yoke wore down so much that the dust cone on it actually ate into the casting where the outer grease seal for the side yoke goes and ate it up so much there was no way to install a new seal...nothing for it to grab onto and hold.

DUB
Thanks DUB,

I can do that once I've removed it. That's the worst part....removing it again. That leaf spring is a headache.

Thanks,
Dex


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