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The passenger hinge looks like it was cut. I think they are L/R so check that. Also, its hard to tell but the top of the fender air inlet should be flush against top of the radiator support. At least that's what my pictures are showing. Was the nose worked on??? It looks really rough from the inside the front passenger side from the pictures.
The passenger hinge looks like it was cut. I think they are L/R so check that. Also, its hard to tell but the top of the fender air inlet should be flush against top of the radiator support. At least that's what my pictures are showing. What the nose worked on??? It looks really rough from the inside the front passenger side from the pictures.
I intend to replace the right side as soon as we can figure out what's amiss
There are rub marks on the underside of the hood where the radiator support is touching. That should tell you that the radiator is supporting the weight of the hood. There should be some clearance between the hood and the front radiator support. Either the radiator support has been modified since it is sitting flush on the third arm support or you have a front clip issue.
If it was me I would determine if the holes in the fender well where the the inner fender wells mount to the radiator support have been re-positioned. That would tell you why the nose hanging downwards.
Do the inner fender wheel houses hit the frame rails? They should clear by about 1/4" or so if the front clip is adjusted correctly and not sagged. If they are hitting, you have to adjust the front mount.
There are rub marks on the underside of the hood where the radiator support is touching. That should tell you that the radiator is supporting the weight of the hood. There should be some clearance between the hood and the front radiator support. Either the radiator support has been modified since it is sitting flush on the third arm support or you have a front clip issue.
If it was me I would determine if the holes in the fender well where the the inner fender wells mount to the radiator support have been re-positioned. That would tell you why the nose hanging downwards.
Was the nose worked on? If so how was it done?
Some of the marks on the underside is from the hood setting on the support without hinges. I will however recheck the clearances to be certain there is clearance with the hood on the hinges
Some of the marks on the underside is from the hood setting on the support without hinges.
It should have cleared it. It should have only touched at the top header portion near the firewall and the side fender without the hinges. It never should touch the radiator support with it resting on top of the car. Look at the picture I attached with the hood off and you can see what I am talking about the side fender lip is higher than the radiator support.
If I took the hinges off my hood would clear the radiator support.
Do the inner fender wheel houses hit the frame rails? They should clear by about 1/4" or so if the front clip is adjusted correctly and not sagged. If they are hitting, you have to adjust the front mount.
The inner fenders sit about 1/16 above the frame rails
Ironheadvette you might have something there. I was going to switch them and had figured they must be L&R because the right hinge is butchered up as you cans in the pic. I looks like one side of the hinge is longer than the other which might run the pivot point of the hinge lower into the car. Thanks
Last edited by scottash; 11-29-2016 at 08:38 PM.
Reason: condense posting
[I]Here's a picture with the hood set in place a couple weeks ago. Still a bit high but considerably better, Note the raised area in the cowl latch section.
[I]Here's a picture with the hood set in place a couple weeks ago. Still a bit high but considerably better, Note the raised area in the cowl latch section.
Was the hood resting on the radiator support in that picture? Were the rear male latches installed in the picture?
Quick update, We removed the core support and upon visual inspection there is no evidence of the support being move such as extra holes. The hood lays flat in it's proper location with the support removed with the expected discrepancies for the manufacturers fitment. With the shims removed from the front body mount the inner fenders sit flat on the frame rails with 1/8 to 1/4 inch gap on the front body mount so the shimming seems right. So all that said I believe the proper fix to be to lower the core support by 5/8 to 3/4 of an inch by notching the base of the core support and gaining the remainder of the movement needed by utilizing the front mount shims. There is evidence of front end collision damage so some of what I am fighting may well be a body-man's mistake.
Question.. Does anyone know of anyone else notching the core support to gain the necessary hood alignment?
Does anyone have any other ideas as to why an apparently stock ( as compared to another known 62 core support) would sit 1 inch high.
Another.. can someone tell me the proper orientation for the aluminum shim between the frame and front end assembly. It's tapered and will change the elevation of the front body mount. I want to rule this out also
Thanks guys
Last edited by scottash; 12-04-2016 at 06:28 PM.
Reason: Additional question added
the shim is tapered for a reason, it is additional adjustment for alignment caster and should be retained; sometimes 2 are used. thick end towards the rear of the car.
I vote for incorrect hinge orientation too. They are either reversed left to right or upside down. I've had my hood off a half dozen times and it is easy to get it wrong if your not paying attention, worse even if you were not the taker aparter.
After looking at the pic again it appears the part of the hinge that pivots is upside down (rotated 180 degrees).
Last edited by claf; 12-04-2016 at 08:32 PM.
Reason: New scoop
11-29-2016, 09:34 AM
