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You don't need a puller to change the seal. Just take a screwdriver or chisel and come in from the side and pop it out. You're changing it anyway, so just destroy the seal and remove it. Takes about two taps.
Put new seal in. It's going to position itself off the inner bore of housing, so no need to align it with a tool. Won't matter. Just line it up and tap it in place.
Yes, check the bushing....you can use a good yoke to get an idea of fit.
JIM
That's the way I got the side seals off when I had to put snap rings (or C clips) on the side yokes. Haven't really had the time to see if I could do that or not. I figured since Larry suggested the tool I'd just go buy a cheap one at Advance Auto.
Yes...........but it requires a special puller that is different than the seal puller I mentioned earlier. Perhaps AutoZone or one of the other auto parts houses might have one they would loan out to you. You could ask. It has two metal fingers that go into the trans tail section and grab the bushing and pulls it out.
Larry
EDIT: 427Hotrod makes a good point about the seal removal. I wasn't exactly sure about the screwdriver or chisel method, but I knew the cheap seal puller would work. Years ago, I never had a seal puller and always found a screwdriver or something that would work. But over the years I got more sophisticated in my approach. However, the bushing is a different animal and does require a puller for removal. However, I am not certain that you need to replace the bushing..............but it is a good idea if you have the time and tool.
Thanks Larry. I've been looking at the bushing, online, and it seems pretty simple piece, which means I'd have trouble getting it out.
I will tempt to get the seal out tomorrow and look at the bushing. I'll take some pictures and if there's a way to tell, just let me know!!!
The bearing retainer size MUST be corrected for the bell housing you plan to use.
I guess using a sealer on this rear seal outer circumference depends a bit on the seal itself. If it looks like a snug fit and has it's own rubber outer seal, then you can probably install it as is. If the outer seal surface is metal, a little Permatex #2 (or a little black silicone)will help provide a better/tighter outer sealing connection. If used, just use a little bit.
The bearing retainer size MUST be corrected for the bell housing you plan to use.
I guess using a sealer on this rear seal outer circumference depends a bit on the seal itself. If it looks like a snug fit and has it's own rubber outer seal, then you can probably install it as is. If the outer seal surface is metal, a little Permatex #2 (or a little black silicone)will help provide a better/tighter outer sealing connection. If used, just use a little bit.
I'm not certain the factory used anything.
Larry
So the picture I marked up on page 2 of this thread, is that what y'all are referring to?
I used a thin coat of black when I installed the rear seal....a very thin layer.
The only thing I'm worried about is the retainer ring discussion on the previous page.
Thanks,
Dex
I blew up your first photo and you can definitely see the gap, unless of course it's an optical illusion. Measure the outside diameter of the retainer. If it is 4.125" then it is the small retainer. Also measure the hole in your bellhousing and compare.
I blew up your first photo and you can definitely see the gap, unless of course it's an optical illusion. Measure the outside diameter of the retainer. If it is 4.125" then it is the small retainer. Also measure the hole in your bellhousing and compare.
Thanks buns!!! That's what I figured y'all were talking about. There's definitely a gap there. I would have never caught it if you guys wouldn't have told me.
I emailed Kajun Job to see which part he recommended. Should be an easy swap....hmmm, well nothing ever is.
Thanks vettsplit!!! So is that all I need is that part? Do I need a gasket or anything? I've never done this before....As you can tell.
Thanks for everything,
Dex
yes, you will need the gasket that goes under the retainer, and I have found that if I put some kind of thread sealant on the threads that secure the bearing retainer, that eliminates the possibility of grease seepage around the threads. (The holes go all the way through the front of the case) Be careful not to over torque- it's aluminum.
yes, you will need the gasket that goes under the retainer, and I have found that if I put some kind of thread sealant on the threads that secure the bearing retainer, that eliminates the possibility of grease seepage around the threads. (The holes go all the way through the front of the case) Be careful not to over torque- it's aluminum.
I could be mistaken, but I'm pretty sure the larger retainer has a different bolt pattern, and won't bolt up to your trans.
I'm not sure of the bolt pattern for the larger bearing retainer but the small one I have (about 4-3/16") has a center to center bolt pattern of 2-1/2". The opening in the bellhousing is 4-11/16" just like vettsplit mentioned above. As long as the bolt pattern is the same, I believe he did it a couple years back, then I'm set....hopefully. I have read on here where different folks have used a spacer collar. Not sure about that or where you'd get one.
I prefer to buy the bearing retainer vettsplit listed above. I will have to give Kajun Jon a call tomorrow to get it and a gasket on order.
12-25-2016, 11:03 PM
