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"There's some slight play where the shift rod meets the gear rod (around the pin). Is that normal or acceptable? It seems to shift fine."
Remove the Jesus clip and inspect the hole in the lever, if not egged, it is fine. Inspect the rod end for wear. If worn, you will see the groove in it.
Some clearance is needed, but you don't want the rod moving much without moving the lever.
Then the real fun is getting the Jesus clip back in.
You mean you DIDN'T paint your engine Chevy orange? Sacrilege! Is that even legal???
Just kidding, I paint 'em black too but I'm sure that's what some of the purists on here are thinking!
Wait a minute, the 80 El Camino 305 was blue as I recall, add a little grime and you will see black.
The nice thing about cars is you can dress them the way you want
Don't try that with a women.
Looks like I did get "lubed". He told me that he didn't replace the rear seal....but did everything else, so after I put the transmission oil in I saw a few drops that had leaked from the rear seal, overnight. I stood the transmission up to look at the rear seal and this is what I found after I laid it back down:
Guess I need to figure out if I can replace the front and rear seals myself or take it to a transmission mechanic. I'm pretty handy at doing this stuff, but I never have.
The rear seal requires a transmission yoke or special mechanics rear sealing tool to properly seal up the rear of the unit. Standing the trans up WILL result in you losing just about all of the trans lubricant.....no matter whether it has a new seal or not.
You should be able to see the rear seal condition with a good flashlight. It is not a hard job to replace it now or later. Just need a seal puller (cheap ones available) and a piece of proper size PVC or other plastic pipe to help with the install. But now is probably the best time to do it.
Larry
Last edited by Powershift; 12-24-2016 at 03:07 PM.
The rear seal requires a transmission yoke or special mechanics rear sealing tool to properly seal up the rear of the unit. Standing the trans up WILL result in you losing just about all of the trans lubricant.....no matter whether it has a new seal or not.
You should be able to see the rear seal condition with a good flashlight. It is not a hard job to replace it now or later. Just need a seal puller (cheap ones available) and a piece of proper size PVC or other plastic pipe to help with the install. But now is probably the best time to do it.
Larry
Thanks Larry!!! So you're saying that by standing the transmission up, it's normal for it leak out and I don't have anything to worry about?
i have a rear seal that came in the kit I bought originally. I don't mind buying the tool if I can do it myself. I would say the rear seal leaked about 10-12 drops overnight.
Looks like I did get "lubed". He told me that he didn't replace the rear seal....but did everything else, so after I put the transmission oil in I saw a few drops that had leaked from the rear seal, overnight. I stood the transmission up to look at the rear seal and this is what I found after I laid it back down:
Guess I need to figure out if I can replace the front and rear seals myself or take it to a transmission mechanic. I'm pretty handy at doing this stuff, but I never have.
Thanks,
A Disappointed 58n65
if you stood the trans on its nose , trans fluid is gonna run out of the case throgh the front bearing around the input shaft. There is no seal to keep it from running out
if you stood the trans on its nose , trans fluid is gonna run out of the case throgh the front bearing around the input shaft. There is no seal to keep it from running out
That's REALLY good news. I thank you and Larry for making my Christmas eve a lot more joyful.
That's REALLY good news. I thank you and Larry for making my Christmas eve a lot more joyful.
Thanks,
58n65
Agree..........the front has no seal whatsoever. The rear has a seal, but it requires the trans yoke to be installed to complete the overall sealing. Just about everyone who has pulled the trans in the past for repair or to replace the clutch has had transmission fluid spilled all over their chest. That was how we learned to seal it with a plastic bag and masking tape or spring for the $10-15 for the special rear seal plug (I now keep TWO of these special tools/plugs in my garage )
Merry Christmas Dex. Glad vettesplit 63 and I could help.
Larry
PS: This is why you also don't overfill the trans, as the excess fluid will come out the front unto the clutch disk or possibly work itself out the back unto your garage floor.
Last edited by Powershift; 12-24-2016 at 03:42 PM.
Agree..........the front has no seal whatsoever. The rear has a seal, but it requires the trans yoke to be installed to complete the overall sealing. Just about everyone who has pulled the trans in the past for repair or to replace the clutch has had transmission fluid spilled all over their chest. That was how we learned to seal it with a plastic bag and masking tape or spring for the $10-15 for the special rear seal plug (I now keep TWO of these special tools/plugs in my garage )
Merry Christmas Dex. Glad vettesplit 63 and I could help.
Larry
PS: This is why you also don't overfill the trans, as the excess fluid will come out the front unto the clutch disk or possibly work itself out the back unto your garage floor.
So how do I remove the driveshaft yoke so I can replace the rear seal?. I did fill the tranny up to the plug and then a tiny bit more. Wasn't sure how much to put in.
Although there is a gasket at the front bearing retainer, there is no seal around the input shaft on the transmission, so fluid can leak out regardless. You can check for the gasket, but there is no front SEAL.
If the transmission is not in the car yet, just look at the transmission output shaft in the rear. It has splines like the input shaft. You should see the rear seal (Pic #35) around it. If the transmission is in the car, you will need to remove the driveshaft. The forward end to the driveshaft contains the transmission yoke. Pulling the driveshaft should either remove the yoke or allow you to simply slide it out of the transmission rear. Sometimes you have to disconnect the yoke from the driveshaft for removal clearance.....depending on your car and what is in the way of the driveshaft.
A cheap seal puller should allow you to get the seal out. I will find a picture of one for you and post it. Clean up the mating surfaces, apply a small amount of Permatex #2 on the new rear seal and tap it into place with a small hammer and perhaps using the small section of PVC to provide the final alignment and seal. I think a 6 inch or so piece 1-1/2 inch or 2 inch PVC piping will get be what works. Make sure you install the seal in the correct lip position.
Although there is a gasket at the front bearing retainer, there is no seal around the input shaft on the transmission, so fluid can leak out regardless. You can check for the gasket, but there is no front SEAL.
If the transmission is not in the car yet, just look at the transmission output shaft in the rear. It has splines like the input shaft. You should see the rear seal (Pic #35) around it. If the transmission is in the car, you will need to remove the driveshaft. The forward end to the driveshaft contains the transmission yoke. Pulling the driveshaft should either remove the yoke or allow you to simply slide it out of the transmission rear. Sometimes you have to disconnect the yoke from the driveshaft for removal clearance.....depending on your car and what is in the way of the driveshaft.
A cheap seal puller should allow you to get the seal out. I will find a picture of one for you and post it. Clean up the mating surfaces, apply a small amount of Permatex #2 on the new rear seal and tap it into place with a small hammer and perhaps using the small section of PVC to provide the final alignment and seal. I think a 6 inch or so piece 1-1/2 inch or 2 inch PVC piping will get be what works. Make sure you install the seal in the correct lip position.
Thanks Larry!!! The knowledge that you and the other guys have on here is tremendous. My transmission is sitting on the floor in my shop and the driveshaft is off....but the yoke is still attached. I haven't pulled on it to see if it would come out or not. Fit some reason I was expecting it to be held in by something on the inside of the transmission.
11-28-2016, 06:24 PM
Got My Transmission Back
SOOOOOOOOO TRUE!!!
)
