aobrien

Has anyone had any problems with the headlight switch overheating?

Rewired the entire `58 a couple years ago. Replaced every electrical connection including the headlight switch I bought from Corvette Central (http://www.parts123.com/corvettecent...50e&ukey=47533)

I was driving home from work the other day and it was starting to get dark so I turn on the headlights. I always use high beam lights (looks better )

Then after about 20 minutes I noticed that the headlights were intermittently flashing. Then I reached under the dash and felt that the headlight switch was almost burning hot.

Low beam lights didn't have the same problem. The switch was still warm, but not burning hot.

Thinking about getting another switch, but not sure it will solve the problem. Perhaps I don't have the correct headlights?

Anybody have any other thoughts on the subject?

Thanks.

Frankie the Fink

There is a thermal "cutout" internal to the headlight switch that will cause the lights to 'strobe' if there is an overcurrent condition....supposedly to let you limp to safety in the dark. Many times the switch is just tired or the wiring/connections to the headlights/dimmer switch have degraded to the point that too much current is required to run the lights. The bad part is the repro switches seem to be worse and the two I've installed instantly started strobing.

Sooooo...you can replace your wiring (prob smart anyway if its original) or install headlight relays that supply the hi-amp feeds to the lights and only use the dash switch as a low-current 'trigger' for the relays. A popular mod and LOTS of info on that here and on the Mad Electric web site. If you already replaced the wiring then I'd say you fell victim to the crummy repro switch finally failing on you.

Halogen headlights shouldn't require more current and I'm going from memory here but Sylvania H5001 and H5006 should work just like the old T-3s (you'll have to confirm those numbers)

65GGvert

The headlight switch is the most likely target. I see you replaced all your wiring recently. I would suspect the switch, particularly on a reproduced one. All it would take is for the contacts internally to get a little corrosion and the heat will build up quickly. The new ones seem weak anyway. Frankie's suggestion of wiring the headlights through a relay would not only eliminate all that current going through the switch, but also you'll get brighter lights as a bonus.

Pilot Dan

Much like most other Chinese reproduction electrical parts, they are close but not exact and don't last (fuel tank sending units come to mind). Fortunately, PLENTY of GM cars back in the day used this switch (the bean counters made sure) and since you already have all new wiring (good idea), search for an original switch 1995096,
plenty available used or NOS depending on your budget and my guess is this problem will disappear. Pilot Dan

mrg

Also agree going with relays to power the headlights. It does make a difference. ..

If you still have the original headlight switch carefully take it apart to check for wear, clean contacts, etc. . If in good condition you might consider reusing it.
​​​​​​​John

aobrien

Thanks guys!

I like the idea of using a relay... I'll check into it.

stratplus

I had the exact thing happen on my 60.

Flashing headlights and I could not touch the switch because it was so hot. I replaced the switch about 5 years ago and it has been fine.

I run Sylvania halogens and no relays.

SDVette

The heat is caused by extra resistance.. Typically corrosion or wear on the contact points or attachment lugs. Give it a visual inspection - perhaps you can spot the issue.. If not, it's internal to the switch.

GTOguy

I was able to disassemble my original '61 headlamp switch, and clean it and lube it back to like-new condition. Works great.

63Corvette

Mine is original. Can you get it out to repair or replace it without pulling the dash?

ejboyd5

The dimmer you run your instrument lights the more your headlight switch rheostat is called upon to supply resistance and the hotter the whole assembly becomes.

Frankie the Fink

All day long.....

First, disconnect the car battery, then -- there is a small spring loaded button on the bottom of the switch housing (red circle in picture)...depress that to remove the dash ****/shaft while simultaneously pulling outward on the dash ****.

Then take some needle nose pliers and CAREFULLY (this is the part where you scratch your cluster paint if you're a klutz) unscrew the small bezel ring inside the **** escutcheon. This will free the switch up to where you can finagle the electrical connector off and its the reverse to reinstall.

KMNM44

Is the red light that indicates the headlights are on supposed to flash in my 1965 Corvette?

Frankie the Fink

It does in my '63 but takes a minute for the bulb to warm up enough to get going and flash.

65GGvert

If the lights are on and one or both buckets not fully up, and if it has the correct flashing bulb in it then yes. It should neither light nor flash if the buckets are fully rotated.. The same bulb is used for the parking brake on warning.

PAmotorman

if you switch to more powerful lights this will happen without using a relay

cardo0

Kinda confused here from post #1 as did you replace the wires individually themselves with their connectors or use a replacement harness with assembled connectors?

More likely you replace the entire harness with connectors assembled and the light switch. Yes? In this case both the connector and the switch are suspect. My truck recently/this past year burnt up both the connector and the light switch. This was a 20 year old stock dodge light switch. One of connections decided to arc or possibly inside the switch a contact began to arc - no way to tell now as it destroyed both switch and connector. Just something loosened up over 20 years (but waited until I was on a dark stretch of interstate).

But what I'm going to say is if your switch and wiring is somewhat intact you should be able to investigate here looking for arched contacts on the connector or even inside the switch. Pull the connector off and look for a burnt contact. If you're familiar with multimeters you could also hook up and do a wiggle test watching resistance. May seem like a lot of extra work but it should give you the problem source and maybe the fix is as simple as rebending a contact tab.

Good luck and let us know what you find.

davekp78

No, there are 2 flashing bulbs, one each for buckets closed and the other for parking brake on warning.

Frankie the Fink

I'm sure he meant the same "type" of bulb (e.g. flashing).
65GGvert is one of the most knowledgeable auto-electrical guys on here...

davekp78

Yeah, you're right.