carlisle61

I need a new radiator for my project, and I noticed a huge difference in price for the brass/copper at Corvette America and the Dewitt aluminum. Is there that big a difference in the performance of the two? They both say the fit is as original. Thanks

finleyeagle

Why not use an original? I have an extra if you are interested. Give me a call.
Merry Christmas,
Thanks Mike (317)729-2418

carlisle61

Actually I have the original in it now and it stays cool. The reason I'm considering changing is that it has some rust (but no leaks) at the very bottom.


eyeagle;1593608655]Why not use an original? I have an extra if you are interested. Give me a call.
Merry Christmas,
Thanks Mike (317)729-2418[/QUOTE]

0Tom@Dewitt

Of all the radiators we reproduce, this is my favorite one. The photo says it all

Easy Rhino

OP, I suspect the difference in cost is at least partly due to the current high cost of copper (major ingredient in brass) over the cost of aluminum.

mhobtr

Are you sure that's radiator rust? I thought all of those early radiators had brass tanks.

Rusty looking gunk would collect in the tank and a small leak would be evident by a rusty looking spot. It used to be commonplace to have them boiled out, cleaned and painted at a local shop so they were good as new.

But with the new aluminum and plastic "throw away" radiators, those shops are few and far between.

corvettesander

i just have my original 56 radiator re-cored
And paid 260$ at an oldschool radiator shop localy (over here in the netherlands) maybe you can find one near you too ?

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0Tom@Dewitt

I can't tell for sure, but that looks like a replacement "tube and header" core and the stock one is called a V-cell.

This not a Corvette radiator, but it shows what a v-cell pattern looks like

corvettesander

correct Tom, they where also able to put in an original V cell core ,
the cost would have been a little bit higher. but i went for the modern style with the advantage of better cooling.

92GTA

The DeWitt is the way to go, I went to that on my '56 after another brand of brass/copper radiator.

I was told this by Tom back in 2010, don't know if it is still true....

"side brackets for 55-57 are different than 58-60 and the only difference is the 55-57 has a taller side bracket with another nut for the hood pop up on top.

We could not afford tooling for both style brackets, and since the taller one (55-57) wouldn't work at all for the later years, I decided to make the (58-60) one. When installing this in one of the earlier year cars, like yours, all you have to do is mount the radiator with our top nut in the second hole in the core support. Then all the holes will line up. Then just use a regular nut on the top hole (in the core support) for the pop up."

gowenfast

Are you saying this radiator is an exact reproduction of the 55 Corvette radiator? I'm working on a 55 NCRS type restoration, so the part would have to be correct. Thanks, David

0Tom@Dewitt

No, it is not correct because it is made out of aluminum instead of the copper and brass. The upper tank and side straps look very original and in many cases people will just glue a Harrison date tag on (we can do that) and with the Black Ice coat they slip by. Not every judge is a radiator expert and I think the possible point deduct is worth the added cooling.

92GTA

That and it would be missing the date code tag on it, so don't forget to have that reproduced for whichever radiator you go with. I'd think any judge would notice that right away.

gowenfast

Thanks for the quick reply. Other than being made of aluminum, the tank, inlets/exits are the same as an original? What would the date coded black ice finish radiator cost me? Thanks, David

gowenfast

I forgot to ask, does the radiator have the metal overflow tube, as the original does? Thanks, David

0Tom@Dewitt

Yes it does have the long overflow tube.

Model 1239055M (Radiator/Black/Man) $689.99

You have a couple options on the tag. If your radiator has one, just heat it up and it will slide off. Mail us a tag and we'll glue it on no charge. If we supply it, add $40. Most of the major catalog places sell it, so if you want to buy it somewhere else that's fine.

Webpage here

treh1

I replaced my old Harrison with a Dewitts radiator several months ago. I used a propane torch to melt the solder on the Harrison tag and removed it. I used JBWeld high temp epoxy to attach it to my new radiator and it has held up very well. My car is not an NCRS specimen but I like to to have the authentic details when I can.

scopeli

15 points for originality is a pretty good hit. Wish you still had the replacement core. There is a good chance of loosing over half the points allowed for the radiator.

0Tom@Dewitt

I understand that and a decision has to be made on whether you want all those points or want to enjoy the car. For me, having a robust cooling system far exceeds getting a higher NCRS score.

I remember restoring my 63 and I painted the frame in black epoxy for the added rust protection instead the original asphalt base stuff. I took the full hit at every show and still scored above 97 final score in three shows. That's because 30 raw points is something like 0.001 final score. It doesn't really matter in the end. If the car is done well enough to gain top flight you could have a chinese plastic radiator in there.

0Tom@Dewitt

BTW, you can still get them from

Here