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Help with 64 Clock needed ( PICTURES)

Old 01-09-2017, 10:33 AM
  #21  
ry57pont
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im convinced that when you see burned up midyears the clock was the cause.
Old 01-15-2017, 09:13 PM
  #22  
Oaker57
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Ok, latest update on my clock repair:

Thanks to the generosity of fellow forum member and all around good guy "Zeeker" who was kind enough to send me his old clock parts so I could selvedge what I needed.

You can see my old relay on the left was really burnt out compared to the one from Zeekers old clock, which looks brand new.



After swapping parts, my clock is up and running on the bench, but it seems like it wants to rewind in intervals that are timed to close together. about 50 seconds. Does anyone know how far apart the tell-tale clicks of the winding sequence are supposed to be?

In other words, it just seems to me that the contacts aren't opening as far as they could or should. But it does run smooth, so maybe it is the way it's supposed to be.

My other question is, how do you get the glass lens out to replace it??
It appears that it's riveted to the outer bezel, with six small rivets, I have tried to gently pry it apart, but I don't want to break anything.


Old 01-16-2017, 12:36 AM
  #23  
zeeker
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Young Fella, I am tickled you found some parts in that clock that could help you out. Always glad to help out a member when I can............zeeker
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Oaker57 (01-16-2017)
Old 01-16-2017, 07:54 AM
  #24  
Vettegeezer
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Originally Posted by Oaker57
Ok, latest update on my clock repair:

Thanks to the generosity of fellow forum member and all around good guy "Zeeker" who was kind enough to send me his old clock parts so I could selvedge what I needed.

You can see my old relay on the left was really burnt out compared to the one from Zeekers old clock, which looks brand new.



After swapping parts, my clock is up and running on the bench, but it seems like it wants to rewind in intervals that are timed to close together. about 50 seconds. Does anyone know how far apart the tell-tale clicks of the winding sequence are supposed to be?

In other words, it just seems to me that the contacts aren't opening as far as they could or should. But it does run smooth, so maybe it is the way it's supposed to be.

My other question is, how do you get the glass lens out to replace it??
It appears that it's riveted to the outer bezel, with six small rivets, I have tried to gently pry it apart, but I don't want to break anything.


I can't comment on the glass lens, but the solenoid reset interval, as measured on two Borg movements that I have, is 95 seconds.
Phil M.
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Oaker57 (01-16-2017)
Old 01-16-2017, 12:44 PM
  #25  
miked16
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The timing interval that what is happening is the clock is winding down far enough to trigger the contacts. So either

1) when it winds itself, it is not winding far enough up becasue of lack of lubrication, worn out part or some adjustment or
2) The re-wind is getting triggered too soon.

Since you have a spare, look around at the levers near the solenoid , my money is you adjust the timing by bending a lever.

I read you post last night and was thinking that the 50 seconds was the reason you old coil failed but if the factory setting is 95 seconds then not likely, my 6v VW is 3 minutes. I am liking the idea of hooking the clock into switched power, every 95 seconds, no wonder why the clocks didn't last long!
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Oaker57 (01-16-2017)
Old 01-16-2017, 08:24 PM
  #26  
Oaker57
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Originally Posted by miked16
The timing interval that what is happening is the clock is winding down far enough to trigger the contacts. So either

1) when it winds itself, it is not winding far enough up becasue of lack of lubrication, worn out part or some adjustment or
2) The re-wind is getting triggered too soon.

Since you have a spare, look around at the levers near the solenoid , my money is you adjust the timing by bending a lever.

I read you post last night and was thinking that the 50 seconds was the reason you old coil failed but if the factory setting is 95 seconds then not likely, my 6v VW is 3 minutes. I am liking the idea of hooking the clock into switched power, every 95 seconds, no wonder why the clocks didn't last long!
I believe reason number 1 is most correct here, because I can indeed wind it further manually than what happens under power by itself. And obviously when wound manually it times out closer to the 95 seconds that Vettegeezer reported as the proper time interval.

So I will keep at it, and apply all tips and advice you guys offer up.
It's just fun trying to get it back to life, always keeping in mind there is always the quartz alternative if all else fails.

Thanks so much guys
Old 01-16-2017, 08:38 PM
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mjdart
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Oaker57 this is the clock pulled from my '64 I mentioned in a reply above. If could help you out send me a message, It was kind-of working I would wiggle the plug on the back and it would start running then stop a few minutes latter.






Old 01-16-2017, 08:53 PM
  #28  
mjdart
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Oaker57, This is the clock I mentioned in reply


1964 from mjdart's Sting Ray
Old 01-16-2017, 08:54 PM
  #29  
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Oaker57 this is the clock I mentioned in above reply
Old 01-16-2017, 08:56 PM
  #30  
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pm me if it will help you
Old 01-16-2017, 08:57 PM
  #31  
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multiple reply sorry
Old 01-16-2017, 09:21 PM
  #32  
Oaker57
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Originally Posted by mjdart
multiple reply sorry
PM Sent.
Old 01-17-2017, 08:03 AM
  #33  
Vettegeezer
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Originally Posted by miked16
The timing interval that what is happening is the clock is winding down far enough to trigger the contacts. So either

1) when it winds itself, it is not winding far enough up becasue of lack of lubrication, worn out part or some adjustment or
2) The re-wind is getting triggered too soon.

Since you have a spare, look around at the levers near the solenoid , my money is you adjust the timing by bending a lever.

I read you post last night and was thinking that the 50 seconds was the reason you old coil failed but if the factory setting is 95 seconds then not likely, my 6v VW is 3 minutes. I am liking the idea of hooking the clock into switched power, every 95 seconds, no wonder why the clocks didn't last long!
I believe you're onto it with reason #1. If you operate the solenoid contact clapper by hand you quickly find that there is a lot of over-travel available for the contact. When the solenoid is energized, it pulls in the contact clapper at a sufficiently high enough velocity such that the clapper's momentum will carry it further dependent on the friction of the moving parts, return spring force on the system and voltage to the solenoid. So, some light lubrication of the mechanism parts may be beneficial.
Phil M.
Old 01-17-2017, 10:39 PM
  #34  
Oaker57
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Originally Posted by Vettegeezer
I believe you're onto it with reason #1. If you operate the solenoid contact clapper by hand you quickly find that there is a lot of over-travel available for the contact. When the solenoid is energized, it pulls in the contact clapper at a sufficiently high enough velocity such that the clapper's momentum will carry it further dependent on the friction of the moving parts, return spring force on the system and voltage to the solenoid. So, some light lubrication of the mechanism parts may be beneficial.
Phil M.
Thanks Phil, that's the area I will concentrate on. I appreciate all your help..

Still looking for help with how to remove the lens from the outer bezel......I don't want to force anything that probably comes apart easy when you know how......???

Last edited by Oaker57; 01-17-2017 at 10:48 PM.


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