how to wire up ballast resistor
12-22-2016, 01:21 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
how to wire up ballast resistor
67 roadster...have a new lectric limited harness...installed and wired up for a Stock GM mechanical tach drive distributor converted to Pertronix 3
set up..with a msd coil...currently has the red wire from Dist to the coil+ positive side and blk wire- from Dist to neg side of coil.
Lars is rebuilding Dist after cross shaft failed .....and is converting back to point type set up....
so Im going to need the BALLAST resistor re installed.....been some time since I did the wiring and need some HELP figuring out how to wire up the Ballast resistor ..any FORUM members have the solution in easy to understand terms?
set up..with a msd coil...currently has the red wire from Dist to the coil+ positive side and blk wire- from Dist to neg side of coil.
Lars is rebuilding Dist after cross shaft failed .....and is converting back to point type set up....
so Im going to need the BALLAST resistor re installed.....been some time since I did the wiring and need some HELP figuring out how to wire up the Ballast resistor ..any FORUM members have the solution in easy to understand terms?
12-22-2016, 03:07 PM
#2
Team Owner
Lars will not rebuild and map distributors with anything but points - which use the ballast resistor; you must bypass it with the Pertronix III. You can use a simple jumper wire on the back of the ballast resistor to do that versus removing it.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 12-22-2016 at 03:08 PM.
12-22-2016, 03:09 PM
#3
Drifting
Thread Starter
ballast
I understand that about Lars and points...said he would take ignitor 3 out and send it back...and the point conversion would remain..I suppose If I wanted could reinstall the Ignitor,,,
is that going to affect the set up he installed in your opinion? if I changed it back?...he did state his hi performance points will out perform any electronic set up....your thought's on that pls
is that going to affect the set up he installed in your opinion? if I changed it back?...he did state his hi performance points will out perform any electronic set up....your thought's on that pls
12-22-2016, 03:13 PM
#4
Team Owner
I won't begin to contest any allegation Lars makes - he is the distributor "guy". In the ranges we run street-driven engines you'll prob never notice any difference with points vs pertronix. If you aren't turning up 7K RPM you do not have to worry about point bounce....I don't.
When he rebuilt my distributor I ran with his points for a year or so, and, after judging reinstalled my electronic conversion out of boredom one afternoon.
No difference....just less maintenance...
When he rebuilt my distributor I ran with his points for a year or so, and, after judging reinstalled my electronic conversion out of boredom one afternoon.
No difference....just less maintenance...
12-22-2016, 03:20 PM
#5
Drifting
Thread Starter
points v/s electronic
Frankie...thats just what I wanted to hear...i dont rev mine over 6K and glad Lars can get mine fixed w/ new cross shaft and main gear and set up the advance limiter...tx for the advice and diagram
I won't begin to contest any allegation Lars makes - he is the distributor "guy". In the ranges we run street-driven engines you'll prob never notice any difference with points vs pertronix. If you aren't turning up 7K RPM you do not have to worry about point bounce....I don't.
When he rebuilt my distributor I ran with his points for a year or so, and, after judging reinstalled my electronic conversion out of boredom one afternoon.
No difference....just less maintenance...
When he rebuilt my distributor I ran with his points for a year or so, and, after judging reinstalled my electronic conversion out of boredom one afternoon.
No difference....just less maintenance...
12-22-2016, 03:25 PM
#6
Drifting
Thread Starter
wire diagram you sent
Frankie...pls re send diagram with the 3 sets of instructions pls...seems it was replaced with the current one..or was deleted...
Thanks for your time and input
Bluzrocker
Thanks for your time and input
Bluzrocker
12-22-2016, 03:28 PM
#7
Team Owner
OK, you want to wire things up as in Figure #2 if you install the Pertronix 3; that version REQUIRES the full 12V to be happy
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bluzrocker (12-22-2016)
12-22-2016, 07:44 PM
#8
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I understand that about Lars and points...said he would take ignitor 3 out and send it back...and the point conversion would remain..I suppose If I wanted could reinstall the Ignitor,,,
is that going to affect the set up he installed in your opinion? if I changed it back?...he did state his hi performance points will out perform any electronic set up....your thought's on that pls
is that going to affect the set up he installed in your opinion? if I changed it back?...he did state his hi performance points will out perform any electronic set up....your thought's on that pls
12-22-2016, 07:54 PM
#9
Drifting
Thread Starter
Lars response and statement
Distributors: Base fee on the distributors is $130 including return shipping. I only do the rebuilding on the stock GM points-style distributors (including Corvette tach drive) - not HEI or TI. If your points-style distributor has been converted with an aftermarket electronic conversion “kit,” I will remove the conversion and install a set of high performance points: The aftermarket conversions are the source of a multitude of distributor problems, so I will not use them. My points will outperform any aftermarket e-conversion. I will return your e-conversion parts to you in a bag. I cannot test distributors with the e-conversions in them, so I cannot verify operation or curve unless the distributor has a good set of points. The base fee includes a complete teardown & inspection, hot tank, cleanup, paint, detail, a precision assembly with my KwikCurve kit (includes new vacuum advance control unit, hardened shims, custom calibrated springs and a custom advance stop bushing), new high performance points, new condenser, and actual running of the distributor on my Sun distributor machine to verify advance curve and performance through 6,000 rpm. If the distributor needs other parts, such as shaft bushings, cross gear, main shaft, crossgear thrust surface repair, etc., this is in addition to the base fee, and I charge my cost on these items. I also charge a nominal fee if the tach-drive distributor housing needs to be machined due to cross gear damage and if a custom thrust button needs to be fabricated. The distributor is supplied to you with complete installation instructions. Do not ship the distributor with the cap or rotor, as these will get broken in shipment. Note that I do not “restore” distributors to their original, “spec” curve: I custom build them with a performance curve to provide a best-level-of-performance, and I modify the curve to provide better drivability using modern pump gas.
12-22-2016, 08:29 PM
#10
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Jun 2004
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Distributors: Base fee on the distributors is $130 including return shipping. I only do the rebuilding on the stock GM points-style distributors (including Corvette tach drive) - not HEI or TI. If your points-style distributor has been converted with an aftermarket electronic conversion “kit,” I will remove the conversion and install a set of high performance points: The aftermarket conversions are the source of a multitude of distributor problems, so I will not use them. My points will outperform any aftermarket e-conversion. I will return your e-conversion parts to you in a bag. I cannot test distributors with the e-conversions in them, so I cannot verify operation or curve unless the distributor has a good set of points. The base fee includes a complete teardown & inspection, hot tank, cleanup, paint, detail, a precision assembly with my KwikCurve kit (includes new vacuum advance control unit, hardened shims, custom calibrated springs and a custom advance stop bushing), new high performance points, new condenser, and actual running of the distributor on my Sun distributor machine to verify advance curve and performance through 6,000 rpm. If the distributor needs other parts, such as shaft bushings, cross gear, main shaft, crossgear thrust surface repair, etc., this is in addition to the base fee, and I charge my cost on these items. I also charge a nominal fee if the tach-drive distributor housing needs to be machined due to cross gear damage and if a custom thrust button needs to be fabricated. The distributor is supplied to you with complete installation instructions. Do not ship the distributor with the cap or rotor, as these will get broken in shipment. Note that I do not “restore” distributors to their original, “spec” curve: I custom build them with a performance curve to provide a best-level-of-performance, and I modify the curve to provide better drivability using modern pump gas.
12-22-2016, 08:48 PM
#11
Drifting
Thread Starter
ignitions
Love the interaction and views...and yes you are correct and your point is well taken...all the members have wonderful input ...and yours is well founded...what would you say is the best for our application? would be interested in you experiences and thought's
12-23-2016, 12:54 AM
#12
how to wire up ballast resistor
In case you are considering keeping the points, pink wire from the ignition switch that comes through the firewall with the wiper motor wires goes to one side of the ballast resistor. Other side goes to coil positive terminal, which should have another pink wire that originates at the starter motor to give you full voltage when cranking the engine.
In case you are considering keeping the points, pink wire from the ignition switch that comes through the firewall with the wiper motor wires goes to one side of the ballast resistor. Other side goes to coil positive terminal, which should have another pink wire that originates at the starter motor to give you full voltage when cranking the engine.
12-23-2016, 01:45 AM
#13
Drifting
Thread Starter
ballast resistor
Tx for the reply....I will go check out the wires coming through the firewall...and confirm whats there...do have a new lectric limited engine and dash harness installed and working ok @ this point
how to wire up ballast resistor
In case you are considering keeping the points, pink wire from the ignition switch that comes through the firewall with the wiper motor wires goes to one side of the ballast resistor. Other side goes to coil positive terminal, which should have another pink wire that originates at the starter motor to give you full voltage when cranking the engine.
In case you are considering keeping the points, pink wire from the ignition switch that comes through the firewall with the wiper motor wires goes to one side of the ballast resistor. Other side goes to coil positive terminal, which should have another pink wire that originates at the starter motor to give you full voltage when cranking the engine.
12-23-2016, 07:05 AM
#14
Team Owner
I don't have all the theory at my fingertips but the ignition systems are not that hard for the layman to understand IMO. I've used Petronix for years (all three versions), a Mallory Unilite, and, Lectric Limited's Breakerless Stealth Edition. I now use and recommend the Breakerless SE exclusively.
The Pertronix works great when properly installed and with a proper coil and withOUT spiral wound plug wires. The different versions, with different coil and ballast resistor requirements cloud the installation process for novices and many failures are due to this factor IMO (along with a spate of badly manufactured Flamethrower coils). Just leaving the key in the "ON" position with the engine not running could burn up the early versions.
The MSD is a bit strange looking with its low-riding distributor top and is subject to voltage spike damage requiring special protection. The wiring and extra circuit protection box are pretty glaring on an original car.
The Breakerless SE is really invisible (no extra wire), works with ALL the original, stock components including coil, ballast resistor and plug wires and is a shutter vane system that doesn't depend on optics that can get dirty for its operation. Beyond installing the shutter vanes, its nearly impossible to screw up in an original car. Its a magnetically-operated Hall cell and you prob already have 8-10 in your modern car already, e.g. ABS brakes, etc..
I've driven cars with CD (Capacitive Discharge) ignition but the in-your-face boxes and wires are not my bag and prob not needed for a street-driven car even with spirited driving on occasion. I even assembled a HeathKit CD 'back in the day' for a pal and it worked fine..(if anybody remembers those).
If you bring spark, air and fuel in the right ratio, together, under pressure, at the right time - you'll have combustion.
Doesn't get much simpler, if a car is not running right - then one of those things is screwed up....
The Pertronix works great when properly installed and with a proper coil and withOUT spiral wound plug wires. The different versions, with different coil and ballast resistor requirements cloud the installation process for novices and many failures are due to this factor IMO (along with a spate of badly manufactured Flamethrower coils). Just leaving the key in the "ON" position with the engine not running could burn up the early versions.
The MSD is a bit strange looking with its low-riding distributor top and is subject to voltage spike damage requiring special protection. The wiring and extra circuit protection box are pretty glaring on an original car.
The Breakerless SE is really invisible (no extra wire), works with ALL the original, stock components including coil, ballast resistor and plug wires and is a shutter vane system that doesn't depend on optics that can get dirty for its operation. Beyond installing the shutter vanes, its nearly impossible to screw up in an original car. Its a magnetically-operated Hall cell and you prob already have 8-10 in your modern car already, e.g. ABS brakes, etc..
I've driven cars with CD (Capacitive Discharge) ignition but the in-your-face boxes and wires are not my bag and prob not needed for a street-driven car even with spirited driving on occasion. I even assembled a HeathKit CD 'back in the day' for a pal and it worked fine..(if anybody remembers those).
If you bring spark, air and fuel in the right ratio, together, under pressure, at the right time - you'll have combustion.
Doesn't get much simpler, if a car is not running right - then one of those things is screwed up....
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 12-23-2016 at 07:32 AM.