[C2] What aluminum intake to run?
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
What aluminum intake to run?
I have a 64 250 hp 327 that I'm looking to beef up a little. I already have the double hump 194 heads on the car but still have the original intake ,cam and wcfb carb. Note: car still has the small block hood. Im thinking of changing over to the Holley sniper efi , crane vintage muscle 350 hp cam ( hydraulic ) and moving to a aluminum intake. The main question is what options do I have in terms of a after market intake due to the limited space I have with hood clearance? I want to retain the original oil fill tube at the front of the intake. Edelbrock performer was the only one I found that could work for me but the intake would have to be machined to except the oil fill tube... Any better options? 2nd question. What do you all think of the combo I listed? Just looking for alittle more power I can feel in the seat of the pants. The 250 hp set up is extremely mild and not to my taste.
#2
Le Mans Master
There are many ways to go but the proven L79 350 HP 327 cam is hard to beat.
The Perfomer is also a very nice and proven part.
Without the L79 pistons you give up a little but I bet with your pistons you could see 320 HP and these parts are cheap to add 70 HP.
The Perfomer is also a very nice and proven part.
Without the L79 pistons you give up a little but I bet with your pistons you could see 320 HP and these parts are cheap to add 70 HP.
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Basic64 (01-05-2017)
#3
Team Owner
I have a 64 250 hp 327 that I'm looking to beef up a little. I already have the double hump 194 heads on the car but still have the original intake ,cam and wcfb carb. Note: car still has the small block hood. Im thinking of changing over to the Holley sniper efi , crane vintage muscle 350 hp cam ( hydraulic ) and moving to a aluminum intake. The main question is what options do I have in terms of a after market intake due to the limited space I have with hood clearance? I want to retain the original oil fill tube at the front of the intake. Edelbrock performer was the only one I found that could work for me but the intake would have to be machined to except the oil fill tube... Any better options? 2nd question. What do you all think of the combo I listed? Just looking for alittle more power I can feel in the seat of the pants. The 250 hp set up is extremely mild and not to my taste.
All of these EDELBROCKS at Summit Racing have the Oil fill hole drilled in them...
EDL-2703, Satin Finish...
EDL-27033, Black Finish...
EDL-27034, Endura Shine...
Last edited by 66jack; 01-05-2017 at 12:45 AM.
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Basic64 (01-05-2017)
#4
Team Owner
An old school Edelbrock C3BX is a good choice, dual plane and proper hood clearance, I ran one for years and sold it two years ago....they are Z-28 clone design and still around.. Correct thermostat and oil fill tube mounting.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/EDELBROCK-VINTAGE-C3BX-SBC-283-327-350-CHEVY-ALUMINUM-4-BBL-INTAKE-MANIFOLD-2245-/322365470447?hash=item4b0e7ab6ef
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-283-305-350-307-383-400-SMALL-BLOCK-CHEVY-EDELBROCK-C3BX-INTAKE-MANIFOLD-/122266578157?hash=item1c77a7eced
You may just want to consider a GM crate motor instead of cobbling together a bunch of disparate mods. That EFI alone will cost you several thousand, more, if you run into problems with it... My C3BX shown below.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/EDELBROCK-VINTAGE-C3BX-SBC-283-327-350-CHEVY-ALUMINUM-4-BBL-INTAKE-MANIFOLD-2245-/322365470447?hash=item4b0e7ab6ef
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-283-305-350-307-383-400-SMALL-BLOCK-CHEVY-EDELBROCK-C3BX-INTAKE-MANIFOLD-/122266578157?hash=item1c77a7eced
You may just want to consider a GM crate motor instead of cobbling together a bunch of disparate mods. That EFI alone will cost you several thousand, more, if you run into problems with it... My C3BX shown below.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 01-05-2017 at 07:53 AM.
#5
Safety Car
Aftermarket EFI systems are problematic. The companies don't have a history of sticking around. Holley might be around in five years but who knows. At any rate the employees who understand your system may well have left the company.
You're not going to get any more power with EFI, and you're going to get a lot of complications.
Richard Newton
You're not going to get any more power with EFI, and you're going to get a lot of complications.
Richard Newton
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#6
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St. Jude Donor '07
Aftermarket EFI systems are problematic. The companies don't have a history of sticking around. Holley might be around in five years but who knows. At any rate the employees who understand your system may well have left the company.
You're not going to get any more power with EFI, and you're going to get a lot of complications.
Richard Newton
You're not going to get any more power with EFI, and you're going to get a lot of complications.
Richard Newton
:will y:
Bill
lol... just like the emoticon above...
Last edited by wmf62; 01-05-2017 at 07:51 AM.
#7
Team Owner
There have been a few success stories, but more often horror stories. And I'm not too certain about the voracity of the success stories. Once you are many thousands of dollars down the road on a gizmo, spent hours diddling with it and passed the point of no return; its almost obligatory to brag on it even if its a kludgey setup to salve your ego and justify all the pain.
The nice Youtube videos of the swap to EFI usually are under pristine, optimal circumstances not requiring complicated workarounds or more, expensive parts. I looked into this area heavily when I got PO'ed at the Holley on the Chevelle. My cheapest estimate to FULLY take advantage of an EFI system - including modifying the shallow Chevelle gas tank to prevent pump cavitation wash heading north of $4K with no guarantee of complete success. There was a not too long ago thread on here about one of the systems where the tech support sucked out loud and the owner never did get things optimized...
If you want F/I and are going to mod a ton of other things on the side...get an LS3 mill.
The nice Youtube videos of the swap to EFI usually are under pristine, optimal circumstances not requiring complicated workarounds or more, expensive parts. I looked into this area heavily when I got PO'ed at the Holley on the Chevelle. My cheapest estimate to FULLY take advantage of an EFI system - including modifying the shallow Chevelle gas tank to prevent pump cavitation wash heading north of $4K with no guarantee of complete success. There was a not too long ago thread on here about one of the systems where the tech support sucked out loud and the owner never did get things optimized...
If you want F/I and are going to mod a ton of other things on the side...get an LS3 mill.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 01-05-2017 at 08:01 AM.
#8
Drifting
You should check out the factory 327 350hp intake with a Holley carb.
#9
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St. Jude Donor '07
There have been a few success stories, but more often horror stories. And I'm not too certain about the voracity of the success stories. Once you are many thousands of dollars down the road on a gizmo, spent hours diddling with it and passed the point of no return; its almost obligatory to brag on it even if its a kludgey setup to salve your ego and justify all the pain.
The nice Youtube videos of the swap to EFI usually are under pristine, optimal circumstances not requiring complicated workarounds or more, expensive parts. I looked into this area heavily when I got PO'ed at the Holley on the Chevelle. My cheapest estimate to FULLY take advantage of an EFI system - including modifying the shallow Chevelle gas tank to prevent pump cavitation wash heading north of $4K with no guarantee of complete success. There was a not too long ago thread on here about one of the systems where the tech support sucked out loud and the owner never did get things optimized...
If you want F/I and are going to mod a ton of other things on the side...get an LS3 mill.
The nice Youtube videos of the swap to EFI usually are under pristine, optimal circumstances not requiring complicated workarounds or more, expensive parts. I looked into this area heavily when I got PO'ed at the Holley on the Chevelle. My cheapest estimate to FULLY take advantage of an EFI system - including modifying the shallow Chevelle gas tank to prevent pump cavitation wash heading north of $4K with no guarantee of complete success. There was a not too long ago thread on here about one of the systems where the tech support sucked out loud and the owner never did get things optimized...
If you want F/I and are going to mod a ton of other things on the side...get an LS3 mill.
would I do it again, yes... technology has probably evolved... but it is the support (or lack of it that worries me); that makes any adaptable OEM system attractive nowadays...
Bill
Frank
PS:
Veracity vs. voracity
Veracity means truthfulness or honesty. Its corresponding adjective is veracious, which is synonymous with true or truthful.
Voracity is the noun corresponding to the adjective voracious, which means (1) eager to consume a great amount of food, or (2) marked by an insatiable appetite.
Veracity is far more common than the rare voracity, so the latter is sometimes used in place of the former. But voracious is far more common than veracious, so the confusion of the adjectives tends to go in the other direction.
Last edited by wmf62; 01-05-2017 at 09:42 AM.
#10
Safety Car
I went with the Edelbrock 2703 with oil fill tube. Edelbrock product description states this intake manifold won't fit under stock Corvette hood. Yes and no. .. This intake manifold will work under a non BB style hood, but a drop base air cleaner and a 2 inch tall air filter element is what I used to make the combination work. A 3 inch filter element would have been too tall. Using a 2 inch filter and drop base air cleaner, the air flow gap between carb air inlet and air cleaner top is 1/2 inch. Fine for normal running around but a choke point of sorts when the secondaries kick in. The problem was overcome by modifying the air cleaner top lid to accept additional air filter media.
The Edelbrock supplied oil fill tube and breather were not used. A factory style chrome oil fill tube with locking cap top feature and nipple was ordered from Paragon as a replacement so the stock PCV system could continue to be used.
Overall, best performance with this aluminum intake manifold seems to kick in going past 3K rpm. .. The previous intake manifold before changing out to the aluminum 2703 was the factory cast iron 300hp '459' manifold. Between these two intake manifolds, it's hard to say a whole lot was gained, performance wise, going with the 2703. .. Maybe that speaks to the good design of the 459 intake manifold.
As well as gaining a few extra ponies, the 2703 was also installed for better heat dissipation to help a address fuel perc condition.
John
The Edelbrock supplied oil fill tube and breather were not used. A factory style chrome oil fill tube with locking cap top feature and nipple was ordered from Paragon as a replacement so the stock PCV system could continue to be used.
Overall, best performance with this aluminum intake manifold seems to kick in going past 3K rpm. .. The previous intake manifold before changing out to the aluminum 2703 was the factory cast iron 300hp '459' manifold. Between these two intake manifolds, it's hard to say a whole lot was gained, performance wise, going with the 2703. .. Maybe that speaks to the good design of the 459 intake manifold.
As well as gaining a few extra ponies, the 2703 was also installed for better heat dissipation to help a address fuel perc condition.
John
Last edited by mrg; 01-05-2017 at 06:42 PM.
#11
Intermediate
Thread Starter
I went with the Edelbrock 2703 with oil fill tube. Edelbrock product description states this intake manifold won't fit under stock Corvette hood. Yes and no. .. This intake manifold will work under a non BB style hood, but a drop base air cleaner and a 2 inch tall air filter element is what I used to make the combination work. A 3 inch filter element would have been too tall. Using a 2 inch filter and drop base air cleaner, the air flow gap between carb air inlet and air cleaner top is 1/2 inch. Fine for normal running around but a choke point of sorts when the secondaries kick in. The problem was overcome by modifying the air cleaner top lid to accept additional air filter media.
The Edelbrock supplied oil fill tube and breather were not used. A factory style chrome oil fill tube with locking cap top feature and nipple was ordered from Paragon as a replacement so the stock PCV system could continue to be used.
Overall, best performance with this aluminum intake manifold seems to kick in going past 3K rpm. .. The previous intake manifold before changing out to the aluminum 2703 was the factory cast iron 300hp '459' manifold. Between these two intake manifolds, it's hard to say a whole lot was gained, performance wise, going with the 2703. .. Maybe that speaks to the good design of the 459 intake manifold.
As well as gaining a few extra ponies, the 2703 was also installed for better heat dissipation to help a address fuel perc condition.
John
The Edelbrock supplied oil fill tube and breather were not used. A factory style chrome oil fill tube with locking cap top feature and nipple was ordered from Paragon as a replacement so the stock PCV system could continue to be used.
Overall, best performance with this aluminum intake manifold seems to kick in going past 3K rpm. .. The previous intake manifold before changing out to the aluminum 2703 was the factory cast iron 300hp '459' manifold. Between these two intake manifolds, it's hard to say a whole lot was gained, performance wise, going with the 2703. .. Maybe that speaks to the good design of the 459 intake manifold.
As well as gaining a few extra ponies, the 2703 was also installed for better heat dissipation to help a address fuel perc condition.
John
#12
Safety Car
Member Since: Nov 2000
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Cruise-In III Veteran
GM's '70 LT1 intake is a good inch taller in those intake runners and is an ideal intake improvement over the stock 350 HP intake. I've been running the service replacement version (GM #14044836) of this LT1/Z28 intake on my 327 for 10 years. I also mated this intake with the flat tappet solid lifter '70 LT1 camshaft. Good drivability and definitely will be a big power improvement over the 300 hydraulic setup.
Here's some EBAY links to this intake:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1969-197...1X3pu5&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-1970-LT...xYAqG7&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1968-70-Corv...RXqdDY&vxp=mtr
Basic64, good luck in your decision.
Regards,
Jim
In God We Trust!
Here's some EBAY links to this intake:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1969-197...1X3pu5&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-1970-LT...xYAqG7&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1968-70-Corv...RXqdDY&vxp=mtr
Basic64, good luck in your decision.
Regards,
Jim
In God We Trust!
#13
Drifting
I have a 64 250 hp 327 that I'm looking to beef up a little. I already have the double hump 194 heads on the car but still have the original intake ,cam and wcfb carb. Note: car still has the small block hood. Im thinking of changing over to the Holley sniper efi , crane vintage muscle 350 hp cam ( hydraulic ) and moving to a aluminum intake. The main question is what options do I have in terms of a after market intake due to the limited space I have with hood clearance? I want to retain the original oil fill tube at the front of the intake. Edelbrock performer was the only one I found that could work for me but the intake would have to be machined to except the oil fill tube... Any better options? 2nd question. What do you all think of the combo I listed? Just looking for alittle more power I can feel in the seat of the pants. The 250 hp set up is extremely mild and not to my taste.
These aluminum intakes don't flow as well as the later Z28 and LT1 intakes, but they are better than the cast iron intakes and they fit just fine using all the factory parts. The 67-72 Z28 and LT1 intakes are generally considered to be the best small block intake GM ever made for production use, but they are a tight fit under the midyear smallblock hood. On some cars they fit, and on others they interfere with the hood just a bit.
If you are willing to work at it, you can create some additional clearance by adding a few shims to every body mount. This raises the body with respect to the engine.
In my view, the Z28/LT1 intake is probably overkill for your application unless you are using aftermarket heads or ported originals. The aluminum C2 intakes are probably just fine for your application, and are guaranteed to fit with no issues.
#15
Melting Slicks
I installed an edelbrock 2101 manifold, reputably know to be low profile.
I have a big 1/2 inch clearance with an edelbrock 1406 car and an edelbrock 'deep' air filter. All that on a 350ci/290HP GM Goodwrench Crate. Can not compare how well that manifold does to others, but my engine is running great. Note that not all aftermarket manifolds have 100% compatible openings to the original SBC. The 2101 does not have the 'hot slot' (I mistakenly named it a heat cross over, those are there) for example, nor does it have provision for an oil fill tube.
I have a big 1/2 inch clearance with an edelbrock 1406 car and an edelbrock 'deep' air filter. All that on a 350ci/290HP GM Goodwrench Crate. Can not compare how well that manifold does to others, but my engine is running great. Note that not all aftermarket manifolds have 100% compatible openings to the original SBC. The 2101 does not have the 'hot slot' (I mistakenly named it a heat cross over, those are there) for example, nor does it have provision for an oil fill tube.
Last edited by alexandervdr; 01-08-2017 at 05:41 AM.
#16
Drifting
I installed an edelbrock 2101 manifold, reputably know to be low profile.
I have a big 1/2 inch clearance with an edelbrock 1406 car and an edelbrock 'deep' air filter. All that on a 350ci/290HP GM Goodwrench Crate. Can not compare how well that manifold does to others, but my engine is running great. Note that not all aftermarket manifolds have 100% compatible openings to the original SBC. The 2101 does not have a heat cross over for example, nor does it have provision for an oil fill tube.
I have a big 1/2 inch clearance with an edelbrock 1406 car and an edelbrock 'deep' air filter. All that on a 350ci/290HP GM Goodwrench Crate. Can not compare how well that manifold does to others, but my engine is running great. Note that not all aftermarket manifolds have 100% compatible openings to the original SBC. The 2101 does not have a heat cross over for example, nor does it have provision for an oil fill tube.
On the other hand, the oil filler tube is essential if you want to run the stock un-vented valve covers.
Regarding the height of the manifold, I recall that Edelbrock publishes a diagram on how they measure this parameter, and they also provide those measurements for every manifold they sell.
A few years ago I made those same measurements on a stock 327/300 intake, a stock L79 intake, and a stock Z28 intake. I'm away from home right now, but when I get back I will look those numbers up and post them.
Knowing the measurements for the stock manifolds will help with identifying the Edelbrock candidates, especially since it has already been determined that the height of the Z28 intake is marginal for the midyear small block hood.
#17
Melting Slicks
In my post #15 I originally wrote that the cross-overs are missing, they are NOT. It's the 'hot slot' that is not there (the channel shown in picture below). Mix up of terminology
#18
Race Director
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2023 C1 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2015 C1 of the Year Finalist
Personally (FOR A SB CHEVROLET ENGINE), I am a big time lover of the original style Z28/LT1 manifold (67-72 variety). There are two (actually 3) distinct versions: 67-68, 69, 70-72. The 67-69 versions have the hole for the oil tube. On the 70-72 versions, the boss is there, but is is cast over. These manifolds have the Winters snowflake symbol cast into them which of course is a common trade mark on alum engine parts for Chevrolet engines. I do not like the big gaudy symbols/names cast into aftermarket manifolds, such as the Edlebrock manifolds. Another good choice is the 64-67 style 350 and 365hp manifolds-----------------but they are not as good as the original Z28-LT1 manifolds. One particular advantage of the earlier alum manifolds (64-67) is that they are a lower profile than the later Z28-LT1 manifolds-------------which may or may not cause a hood clearance issue.
I have 3 cars with the 67-69 style manifolds and a Q-jet carb, and I could not be happier with an all around setup.
This is now in my 51 Chevy with a 383 (69 Z28 manifold).
This is on a SB400 in my 70 Chevelle (69 Z28 manifold).
This is my son's 68 Chevelle with a 350 (67-68 style Z28 manifold).
Earlier I mentioned there are distinct differences in the 67-68 Z28 intakes from the 69-72 intakes. The MAJOR SIGNIFICANT differences are at the front of the manifolds in the water passage area.
The 67-68 is on the left, the 69-72 is on the right (the one below is a 69 because is still has the hole for the oil fill tube).
As can be seen from the side, they all have the same height/profile (67-68 is on bottom, with a Mr Gasket adapter plate to allow using a Q-jet).
And as can be seen, there are some VERY minor differences between the bottom of the 67-68(right) and 69-72(left) versions.
One last comment on Chev alum 4bl manifolds. The 62-63 340hp engines used an alum manifold which is VERY similar to the 64-67 manifolds, but it has a bolt pattern for an AFB carb, whereas all the 64-72 manifolds had a Holley bolt pattern.
I've never cared much for the 70-72 Z28-LT1 versions because they don't have the hole for an oil fill tube (although the hole CAN be machined for the tube).
One final comment on 4bl manifolds.
If it is desired to use a CAST IRON manifold and a Q-jet, I feel the ideal manifold is the 66-68 cast iron version with a Q-jet bolt pattern. It is a VERY, VERY clean manifold, no emissions nor EGR ports, it has the well for a divorced choke and still has the hole for an oil fill tube. THIS SAME DESIGN MANIFOLD WAS USED ON THE LATER 350hp/350 ENGINES, and flowed quite well!!! These manifolds can be picked up at swap meets for dirt cheap prices.
I have 3 cars with the 67-69 style manifolds and a Q-jet carb, and I could not be happier with an all around setup.
This is now in my 51 Chevy with a 383 (69 Z28 manifold).
This is on a SB400 in my 70 Chevelle (69 Z28 manifold).
This is my son's 68 Chevelle with a 350 (67-68 style Z28 manifold).
Earlier I mentioned there are distinct differences in the 67-68 Z28 intakes from the 69-72 intakes. The MAJOR SIGNIFICANT differences are at the front of the manifolds in the water passage area.
The 67-68 is on the left, the 69-72 is on the right (the one below is a 69 because is still has the hole for the oil fill tube).
As can be seen from the side, they all have the same height/profile (67-68 is on bottom, with a Mr Gasket adapter plate to allow using a Q-jet).
And as can be seen, there are some VERY minor differences between the bottom of the 67-68(right) and 69-72(left) versions.
One last comment on Chev alum 4bl manifolds. The 62-63 340hp engines used an alum manifold which is VERY similar to the 64-67 manifolds, but it has a bolt pattern for an AFB carb, whereas all the 64-72 manifolds had a Holley bolt pattern.
I've never cared much for the 70-72 Z28-LT1 versions because they don't have the hole for an oil fill tube (although the hole CAN be machined for the tube).
One final comment on 4bl manifolds.
If it is desired to use a CAST IRON manifold and a Q-jet, I feel the ideal manifold is the 66-68 cast iron version with a Q-jet bolt pattern. It is a VERY, VERY clean manifold, no emissions nor EGR ports, it has the well for a divorced choke and still has the hole for an oil fill tube. THIS SAME DESIGN MANIFOLD WAS USED ON THE LATER 350hp/350 ENGINES, and flowed quite well!!! These manifolds can be picked up at swap meets for dirt cheap prices.
An old school Edelbrock C3BX is a good choice, dual plane and proper hood clearance, I ran one for years and sold it two years ago....they are Z-28 clone design and still around.. Correct thermostat and oil fill tube mounting.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/EDELBROCK-VI...item4b0e7ab6ef
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-283-...item1c77a7eced
You may just want to consider a GM crate motor instead of cobbling together a bunch of disparate mods. That EFI alone will cost you several thousand, more, if you run into problems with it... My C3BX shown below.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/EDELBROCK-VI...item4b0e7ab6ef
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-283-...item1c77a7eced
You may just want to consider a GM crate motor instead of cobbling together a bunch of disparate mods. That EFI alone will cost you several thousand, more, if you run into problems with it... My C3BX shown below.
Last edited by DZAUTO; 01-08-2017 at 10:26 AM.
#19
Burning Brakes
An old school Edelbrock C3BX is a good choice, dual plane and proper hood clearance, I ran one for years and sold it two years ago....they are Z-28 clone design and still around.. Correct thermostat and oil fill tube mounting.
You may just want to consider a GM crate motor instead of cobbling together a bunch of disparate mods. That EFI alone will cost you several thousand, more, if you run into problems with it... My C3BX shown below.
You may just want to consider a GM crate motor instead of cobbling together a bunch of disparate mods. That EFI alone will cost you several thousand, more, if you run into problems with it... My C3BX shown below.
#20
Melting Slicks
According to Edelbrock's web site and pictures it DOES have provision for an oil filler tube. There's a flat spot where a hole can be drilled.
As for the hot slot, I don't think any of the factory aluminum manifolds had them. Higher heat conductivity rendered it unnecessary with aluminum manifolds.