Temporary Delete of Power Steering - '66 L79 4Spd
01-17-2017, 11:56 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Temporary Delete of Power Steering - '66 L79 4Spd
My power steering is leaking big time. It's the second rebuilt system for the car. Until I find a competent rebuilder or figure out how to do it myself, I'm considering converting to non-power so I can enjoy the upcoming spring/summer driving season.
What would be required to change the factory power to non-power steering.
No air, no air pump.
Thanks,
Ralph
What would be required to change the factory power to non-power steering.
No air, no air pump.
Thanks,
Ralph
01-18-2017, 05:17 AM
#2
Take the belt off the pump and remove the slave cylinder so you are not pushing/pulling fluid and install the outer tie rod ends in the rearward hole for easy steering.
You will soon appreciate the P/S, can you tell where the leaks are located.
You will soon appreciate the P/S, can you tell where the leaks are located.
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After38Years (01-18-2017)
01-18-2017, 08:57 AM
#3
Race Director
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Drain the fluid and remove the PS drive belt. The steering effort will be no greater than for manual, quick steering.
Been there. Done that.
This is what I did when the PS on my '63 sprang a leak and I was waiting on repair parts to arrive. Worked fine.
Jim
Been there. Done that.
This is what I did when the PS on my '63 sprang a leak and I was waiting on repair parts to arrive. Worked fine.
Jim
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After38Years (01-18-2017)
01-18-2017, 09:03 AM
#4
Instructor
Phil M.
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After38Years (01-18-2017)
01-18-2017, 11:56 AM
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
01-18-2017, 12:28 PM
#6
Race Director
If you decide to eliminate the power steering, you'll need to replace the center link and pitman arm, but everything else remains the same.
Hydraulic cam, small block 63-68 Corvettes, used a steering damper, but it really isn't necessary. Big blocks, solid lifter 327's, and 69 and later Corvettes, didn't use the damper.
Hydraulic cam, small block 63-68 Corvettes, used a steering damper, but it really isn't necessary. Big blocks, solid lifter 327's, and 69 and later Corvettes, didn't use the damper.
01-18-2017, 12:39 PM
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
If you decide to eliminate the power steering, you'll need to replace the center link and pitman arm, but everything else remains the same.
Hydraulic cam, small block 63-68 Corvettes, used a steering damper, but it really isn't necessary. Big blocks, solid lifter 327's, and 69 and later Corvettes, didn't use the damper.
Hydraulic cam, small block 63-68 Corvettes, used a steering damper, but it really isn't necessary. Big blocks, solid lifter 327's, and 69 and later Corvettes, didn't use the damper.
I understand that many small blocks had steering dampers. My car never had one (had it since new...).
01-18-2017, 01:13 PM
#8
Team Owner
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Or just crack the lines open on the cylinder and remove the belt. Go around a few corners and the system will self purge of oil.
01-18-2017, 02:52 PM
#9
Race Director
01-18-2017, 03:29 PM
#10
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I would simply spend a weekend and repair the power steering. I rebuilt the pump on my '67 GTO (same pump) with a seal kit off of the internet for less than $20. It took me longer to r&r the pump than it did to rebuild it! If the box is leaking, buy a new one from NAPA and keep your original to have it rebuilt at your leisure. Cheap, and your car will be back in top form with minimal fuss and no jury-rigging.
01-18-2017, 04:40 PM
#11
I would simply spend a weekend and repair the power steering. I rebuilt the pump on my '67 GTO (same pump) with a seal kit off of the internet for less than $20. It took me longer to r&r the pump than it did to rebuild it! If the box is leaking, buy a new one from NAPA and keep your original to have it rebuilt at your leisure. Cheap, and your car will be back in top form with minimal fuss and no jury-rigging.
01-18-2017, 05:08 PM
#12
Burning Brakes
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01-18-2017, 06:44 PM
#13
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So, you knew what you had to do all along. You just wanted to let everyone know you were working or your car? Or wanted to boost your post count?
You've been driving the thing with it leaking for some time, obviously from your post. What's a few more drips on the pavement?
You've been driving the thing with it leaking for some time, obviously from your post. What's a few more drips on the pavement?
Last edited by MikeM; 01-18-2017 at 06:46 PM.
01-18-2017, 09:07 PM
#15
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
So, you knew what you had to do all along. You just wanted to let everyone know you were working or your car? Or wanted to boost your post count?
You've been driving the thing with it leaking for some time, obviously from your post. What's a few more drips on the pavement?
You've been driving the thing with it leaking for some time, obviously from your post. What's a few more drips on the pavement?
Cranky we are today?
12-16-2018, 08:40 AM
#16
Has anyone tried this on a 67 L36 (427/390hp) with A/C? It's a complicated pulley system, but it looks like I can take the center pulley (2 grooves) that drives the A/C compressor, and run it to the alternator (38" belt?). In the current configuration, the center pulley drives the PS pump (2 grooves) and the 2nd groove from the PS pump runs the alternator. I can do w/o A/C and PS this week, and rebuild the PS pump over the Christmas break. If so, what length belt? I measured ~38" (inside diameter) with my wife's sewing tape measure. (Hard to do with belts on the pulleys).
12-16-2018, 10:28 AM
#17
Race Director
12-16-2018, 10:36 AM
#18
Team Owner
It's a hell of a lot easier to change the pump than it is to add Borgeson. Borgeson still uses the pump and if that's where the leak is there's no help there.
12-16-2018, 11:23 AM
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12-16-2018, 12:32 PM
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Problem? Hmm...unless complete originality is your goal which I respect, why fix old technology when you can make it better?
Of course this doesn’t answer the OP’s question. BTW, the center link is the same. It is the control valve on the pitman end of the center link that is different with manual steering.
Now we have a new poster in the old thread wanting to know about the belt. Frankly, you should take some time and fix your leak if it is that significant, rather than try to rearrange the belts.
Of course this doesn’t answer the OP’s question. BTW, the center link is the same. It is the control valve on the pitman end of the center link that is different with manual steering.
Now we have a new poster in the old thread wanting to know about the belt. Frankly, you should take some time and fix your leak if it is that significant, rather than try to rearrange the belts.