Fuse points for 55-57s.
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Fuse points for 55-57s.
I've researched the forum for advice on adding additional fuses to the wiring of my 55. The problem is most articles relate to 58-62 cars, and the wiring for 55-57s is slightly different. Specifically, on my 55 there are two black wires (instead of just one on 58-62s) leading from the ammeter. On mine, one black wire goes to the starter solenoid and the other to the ignition switch. After my research, here is what I have in mind:
1. Place a 30amp fuse on the black wire at the ignition switch. Should I also place a fusible link (two gauges smaller) at the starter solenoid? Is one location/fuse type better than the other?
2. Place a 20amp fuse on the brown wire at the IGN 1 post on the ignition switch that leads to the ballast resistor.
3. Place a 10amp fuse at the cigarette lighter. I have a quartz clock so don't plan on adding a fuse there.
Are some of these fuse locations redundant and do they make sense?
Here are quick links to two pertinent posts I found:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-a...se-safety.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-a...se-points.html
Thanks for your advice.
1. Place a 30amp fuse on the black wire at the ignition switch. Should I also place a fusible link (two gauges smaller) at the starter solenoid? Is one location/fuse type better than the other?
2. Place a 20amp fuse on the brown wire at the IGN 1 post on the ignition switch that leads to the ballast resistor.
3. Place a 10amp fuse at the cigarette lighter. I have a quartz clock so don't plan on adding a fuse there.
Are some of these fuse locations redundant and do they make sense?
Here are quick links to two pertinent posts I found:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-a...se-safety.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-a...se-points.html
Thanks for your advice.
Last edited by Ktholin; 01-23-2017 at 04:39 PM.
#2
Team Owner
You will never go wrong following rich5962's advise (your first link)...it full protects everything. If you do nothing but place the 30 amp fuse in the ammeter circuit (as shown in the second thread) you will protect about 95% of your circuitry. These are 'full flow' ammeters and carry the car's entire electrical load through that dash gauge.
Also check your cigarette lighter and see if its one of the defective repros...these are DANGEROUS in a lightly fused car.....they were just a horrible design. The center spade lug could short to the grounded side of the housing...I put shrink wrap around it, but still fused the power lead.
Finally, I use that plastichrome door edge guard, self adhesive trim on the bottom of the ignition shielding to prevent the sharp lower edge from cutting ignition wires.
Also check your cigarette lighter and see if its one of the defective repros...these are DANGEROUS in a lightly fused car.....they were just a horrible design. The center spade lug could short to the grounded side of the housing...I put shrink wrap around it, but still fused the power lead.
Finally, I use that plastichrome door edge guard, self adhesive trim on the bottom of the ignition shielding to prevent the sharp lower edge from cutting ignition wires.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 01-24-2017 at 06:48 AM.
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Ktholin (01-24-2017)
#3
Pro
Thread Starter
Thanks, Frankie. Just to clarify, Rich5962 is suggesting only to place a 20amp fuse at the brown ignition switch wire leading to the ballast resistor. This will protect everything outbound in the engine compartment. What about under the dash wiring? Should I also place a 30 amp fuse on the black ammeter wire or a fusible link at the starter?
Great suggestions on the lighter and ignition shielding.
Great suggestions on the lighter and ignition shielding.
#4
Team Owner
There are parts of the starting/ignition circuit that the 30 amp ammeter fuse doesn't cover... That's what the starter fusible link takes care off. Not sure on the ignition 20 amp fuse but you can PM 'rich5962' member here and ask him directly.