Daren67

my video is attached. But it comes up about 1/2 inch. Everything is disconnected. I also removed vacuum advance and coil to give me room.outer shaft spins around. Do I rotate rotor to get it out. Basically it comes up little but then gets stuck. need to mail to Lars who has my carb.

thanks

Daren

MikeM

It's been a long time since I've seen it happen but it used to be common for a bit of hard sludge on the distributor body to hang it up on the block. Try jiggling it back and forth as you come up. If that doesn't work, use a little pry bar for leverage.

Pilot Dan

Darren, I'd say you have some old sludge holding it if you have everything disconnected (tach cable, hold down, wires). Grab it with two hands and work it counter clockwise at the rotor and it will come out. Pilot Dan

hope2

Yes, sludge, hold it up and back and forth, some might shoot WD40 to help.

phil2302

Spray some PB down into it and let it sit awhile.
(ps dont forget to mark rotor position)

Easy Rhino

Should be simple, right?

Use something that doesn't damage the flanges, and pry the crap out of it.

Daren67

Worked on it intermittently throughout the day. PB , gum out and then more PB. No luck although it feels better when I lift it 1/2 inch up. Did not pry yet. PB soaking overnight. Should I remove aluminum intake to get out dizzy. I don't mind doing it??

409/409

My opinion would be ABSOLUTLY not!!!

MikeM

You can't get the manifold off if the distributor is hung on the block. You don't need to do that anyway. All you need to do is get mad at it and put your shoulder into it.

phil2302

No, taking off manifold isnt happening with the dis still in.
Try clamping the distributor down again in its proper position and then turn the engine over a few cycles then try removing it again.
If that doesnt work try Kroil instead of PB.
Soak the **** out of it let it work for at least a few hours.
I think possibly you arent pulling firm enough?
I have never used something to pry these. I worry about breaking the gear.

Frankie the Fink

I've encountered this more than once; a combination of sludge, gear wear and the helical nature of the dizzy gear. Generally putting more azz-end into snatching it out works.

Try this first...get in a good spot where you can lean over the car and place both palms on the intake manifold on either side of the distributor, use your fingers/thummbs under the housing to leverage and push straight up on both sides of that base while grunting heavily - that usually does it...

Otherwise I have used a brake adjustment spoon with friction tape around the prying end to get in there and pop the thing out... One of those small mini-crowbar tack/nail pullers (about 6" long) would work the same...

Just steady the distributor with one hand as when it pops up it'll plunk back down and that's prob not good for the gear...

Daren67

At it again this morning. No dice . I have not tried to pry yet. But putting my 200lb frame into it. Any other options. Should I tap engine over? Spray PB down points shaft... instead of dist shaft? Have not butchered it yet and I may give up and not send out as afraid I will break something

Frankie the Fink

As long as you've marked the distributor body and location for re-installation you could certainly slide the distributor back down and bump engine but I'm not sure that'll do it...

If you use a straight edge off the end of the vac advance nipple to put some blue painter's tape on the valve cover and some more tape showing the rotor tip position and do NOT bump the engine after that you'll never go wrong on re-installation using those two guides.

As said...I would get a small lever wrapped in cloth/tape and lever it against the distributor hold down bolt flange to pry up on the distributor base...you could put some busted up wooden paint sticks on the leverage spots if it makes you more comfortable...try to get the distributor up straight as you pry but don't hold the rotor button...it has to turn.

MikeM

If you have it up a 1/2", the rotor will spin at will, the tach cable is unhooked, the wire to the points is unhooked and the distributor cap is laying aside, there is nothing there to break. Nothing to do with gears. No need to spin the engine. Just lean in to it.

Daren67

I can feel the gears come up and down smoothly when I lift it 1/2 inch ...so I think the gears are not binded. I will try a straight smooth pry and get back to you all. Spinning the advance flange does nothing as I pull correct?

AZDoug

That is correct.

Your binding is down in the hole where the dizzy housing passes thru the oil gallery boss in the lifter valley

Doug

Westlotorn

You have had several offer the advice you need. Grab the pry bar, sometimes your muscle is just not enough. I find with each year that goes by I am using pry bars and an extension on my ratchets to add more muscle. Never did that years ago but do it all the time now. Pop that sucker out! Just be careful what you pry against so you don't cause any damage. It will be out in 30 seconds with the right pry bar. Good Luck

409/409

I know the manifold can't come off with the distributor still in. I was thinking he meant taking all of the manifold bolts out and breaking the manifold loose.

MikeM

I was addressing the OP.

Daren67

Appreciate every ones help. Did not get it out. And if one more person tells me to put some muscle in it I will send you a picture of my biceps. I put two 1x2 pieces of wood 10 inches long and tried to pry on both sides evenly. Did not budge. All I can think of is The cans of gumout and PB were almost empty when I started so I will quit today and pick up some kroil and gumout Tomorrow after work and give it a whirl.