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Hi I'm ordering a driveshaft for my '67 w/ a Richmond 5 Speed trans and found that I need to have the slip yoke to be 3/8" or less off of the tail housing for it to clear the transmission tunnel but was told by the shop that at least 1/2" is needed for the install. Has anyone install 1350 sized slip yokes in the car with less than 1/2" clearance?
I would think it would be ok in our application since we do not have a floating rear end. However it may make it impossible to get the driveshaft into the yokes without moving the engine forward or the rear end back.
I am slightly behind you. I am putting a Richmond with the Moser 1350 yoke in my 69. Am wondering if it will fit.
Which RG 5spd are you installing? The non-OD RG uses a stock driveshaft with a Corvette T400 yoke. Have one in my 65. Then use a combination u-joint to the stock shaft. The u-joint for the yoke is 1330 and the shaft is a 1310. Half shafts are 1350.
I would think it would be ok in our application since we do not have a floating rear end. However it may make it impossible to get the driveshaft into the yokes without moving the engine forward or the rear end back.
I am slightly behind you. I am putting a Richmond with the Moser 1350 yoke in my 69. Am wondering if it will fit.
1350 joints fit however on my car (66) of which I did a full body off frame on. I had to do some fiberglass work on the trans tunnel at the transmission yoke end. This is a 3" Denny's driveshaft 1350 joints each side with a new Moser yoke with the split caps on the transmission side. On the rear end side there was clearance around the 1350 yoke. Now just make sure everyone understands my car had all new body mounts and had between 2 and 3 shims at each body mount location. If your body mount bushings are shot then all bets are off. And you need a removable trans cross member to fit this in. See photos below.
At trans yoke before fiberglass work
Fiberglass area at trans tunnel
Not a great photo I showing how hot the curing fiberglass got.
I would think it would be ok in our application since we do not have a floating rear end. However it may make it impossible to get the driveshaft into the yokes without moving the engine forward or the rear end back.
I am slightly behind you. I am putting a Richmond with the Moser 1350 yoke in my 69. Am wondering if it will fit.
Moving the rear end back for the install could be the option so options could be:
1. have more than 1/2 inch clearance between end seal and yoke and modify tunnel.
2. have 3/8 inch clearance and take chances on the install, and could it be possible to find enough clearance by rotating the DS so it would lear the flange from the diff? If nothing works then move rear end out of the way, install DS, then put rear end back.
That is a good point on which Richmond it is. Mine is the 4+1. It seems like the guys with yokes not fitting the tunnel, are the Overdrives that stick farther back into the tunnel. I assume yours is a Muncie Dave? What made you need the removable Crossmember? I definitely want to run 1350 yokes on both tranny and rear end. Thanks for the pics. Wonder if the 66 and 69 tunnel are the same.
To the op, don't know which to do. It might be a real pain in the *** to move that differential but maybe since it won't have to be done very often. Is yours running into the parking brake stuff? And which 5 speed do you have?
That is a good point on which Richmond it is. Mine is the 4+1. It seems like the guys with yokes not fitting the tunnel, are the Overdrives that stick farther back into the tunnel. I assume yours is a Muncie Dave? I definitely want to run 1350 yokes on both tranny and rear end.
Bruce, don't know which to do. It might be a real pain in the *** to move that differential but maybe since it won't have to be done very often. Is yours running into the parking brake stuff? And which 5 speed do you have?
Won't you have to replace the diff yoke or use a combination joint on that end? I thought C2 diffs used 1310 and C3 used 1330 on the diff yokes?
Tom, yes you are right. 69 4 speeds are 1310. Turbo 400's are 1330. My diff is currently with Tracdogg and he is building me a heavy duty 10 bolt with the 1350 yoke. So with the 1350 trans yoke I will order a driveshaft after getting it all in the car. Sorry for the confusion.
To the op, don't know which to do. It might be a real pain in the *** to move that differential but maybe since it won't have to be done very often. Is yours running into the parking brake stuff? And which 5 speed do you have?
My trans is the 1:1 Road Race version. And as to moving the diff, maybe the bolts will only have to be loosened and allow some play for the DS to drop into place? It may not be that bad, I just need to gather up enough courage before ordering that DS.
Tom, yes you are right. 69 4 speeds are 1310. Turbo 400's are 1330. My diff is currently with Tracdogg and he is building me a heavy duty 10 bolt with the 1350 yoke. So with the 1350 trans yoke I will order a driveshaft after getting it all in the car. Sorry for the confusion.
My trans is the 1:1 Road Race version. And as to moving the diff, maybe the bolts will only have to be loosened and allow some play for the DS to drop into place? It may not be that bad, I just need to gather up enough courage before ordering that DS.
Why are you ordering a driveshaft? Are you also using a special diff as well?
I bought a project car that didn't come w/ a DS but a very nicely built motor 427 so I thought maybe I'll get a beefier DS than OEM. OEM DS is also 27 spline I believe but the Richmond is 32.
Ah. Again I was off base. Sorry. But....As stated in the other posts you are creating clearance issues and additional expense. If you have stock or near stock tires you won't find enough traction to need larger than stock driveshaft or yokes. JMO
That is a good point on which Richmond it is. Mine is the 4+1. It seems like the guys with yokes not fitting the tunnel, are the Overdrives that stick farther back into the tunnel. I assume yours is a Muncie Dave? What made you need the removable Crossmember? I definitely want to run 1350 yokes on both tranny and rear end. Thanks for the pics. Wonder if the 66 and 69 tunnel are the same.
To the op, don't know which to do. It might be a real pain in the *** to move that differential but maybe since it won't have to be done very often. Is yours running into the parking brake stuff? And which 5 speed do you have?
It is a Autogear M22, so yes just like a regular Muncie my trans tunnel is pretty straight back so another 1" or 2" farther back I would still need to do the fiberglass work. I have no idea if your car is similar as my C2. In order to get the driveshaft past the rear cross member and the studs for the seat belt reinforcements you need to angle it back. The angle in which you need puts the driveshaft in conflict with the trans cross member. If I had to do it over I'd do a 2 1/2" or 2 3/4" O.D. driveshaft. That extra little room is very helpful. Obviously the 1350 joints are the same regardless of what O.D. driveshaft you use.
Ah gotcha, thanks Dave. I don't know if you remember me Dave, but I bought a 62 340hp intake from you. You had just pulled the body on the 66 when I was there. Glad to hear you got it done!
Ah gotcha, thanks Dave. I don't know if you remember me Dave, but I bought a 62 340hp intake from you. You had just pulled the body on the 66 when I was there. Glad to hear you got it done!
Bill
Yes I remember. The car is totally done and came out really nice. Did everything, body work, paint, interior I mean everything in my garage. Go to my photo album page on here you can see for yourself.
Last edited by 4 Speed Dave; 02-16-2017 at 08:06 PM.
Ah. Again I was off base. Sorry. But....As stated in the other posts you are creating clearance issues and additional expense. If you have stock or near stock tires you won't find enough traction to need larger than stock driveshaft or yokes. JMO
Tom
Hi Sky,
With close to 600 HP/Ft-LB, I was told by a couple places regular C2 DS's they sell won't be able to handle the power. Here's a picture of the BEAST on the left w/ 275's in the front and 315's on back....
I'm ordering a 2.5" DS w/ .12" thick wall steel shaft for the car, just want to triple measure before ordering.
Oh and what about shifting the trans a little to the driver's side as the yoke is only rubbing on the passenger side of the tunnel? After shifting, would the DS still within alignment angles allowed?
Hi Sky,
With close to 600 HP/Ft-LB, I was told by a couple places regular C2 DS's they sell won't be able to handle the power. Here's a picture of the BEAST on the left w/ 275's in the front and 315's on back....
I'm ordering a 2.5" DS w/ .12" thick wall steel shaft for the car, just want to triple measure before ordering.
Nice car!!! 315s are pretty wide. I just have a mildly built SB about 430 HP/TQ max. But it will smoke my 275/17 Nittos on a roll just by hammering it. It spins the tires to the 6200 rev limiter. As long as the tires brake loose I'm thinking the driveshaft never see the full 430 TQ. I was using a stock 2" DS and 1330/1310 u-joints. A friend donated a C3 2.5 driveshaft so I use that now with 1330 both ends. The 1330 was tight at the diff.
02-16-2017, 12:29 AM
Richmond 5 speed and slip yoke advise please
315s are pretty wide. I just have a mildly built SB about 430 HP/TQ max. But it will smoke my 275/17 Nittos on a roll just by hammering it. It spins the tires to the 6200 rev limiter. As long as the tires brake loose I'm thinking the driveshaft never see the full 430 TQ. I was using a stock 2" DS and 1330/1310 u-joints. A friend donated a C3 2.5 driveshaft so I use that now with 1330 both ends. The 1330 was tight at the diff.