Originally Posted by vettsplit 63
This was from another thread about a month ago I think. Using a Dart SHP block. Makes a completely stealth appearance. I like it.
I like the oil separator in the lifter valley. Do you have details of the tomato can construction?
I drilled and tapped a 1/4" pipe hole in the rear china wall similar to your penetration, but used a modified valve cover baffle. The lifter valley is just too turbulent for the single baffle, and I was sucking too much oil.
I switched to a breather in the valve cover riser as mentioned above, a similar but simple 1/4" pipe nipple tapped into the spacer with no baffle. It works better that the single baffle in the lifter valley. The open valve cover pipe was better than the single lifter valley baffle, but the engine still pulled oil at sustained high rpm (like thirty minutes at 80 mph-plus with 4.11 gears to lose a pint).
Since I had the lifter valley plumbed, I made an oil separator that fits in the factory coil mount under the ignition shielding tin (I use an E-Coil on the firewall/fender).
Crankcase pressure is vacuumed off of the valve cover at the riser into the separator, oil is separated and drained to the lifter valley off the bottom of the separator, and relatively clean crankcase vapor is piped from the side of the separator to the PCV and carb base.
My son was kidding me that the separator is version 5.1, as it took a few trials to get the separator baffles to work, but it works.
It would have been much easier to plumb a tomato can like your design.