Rust in the master cylinder bowls.
#1
Drifting
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Member Since: Apr 2004
Location: North Central Wisconsin & Shitcago
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Rust in the master cylinder bowls.
I am in the middle of the rebuild of my calipers and master cylinder for my 67 SB coupe. I rebuilt the master and re-installed it. I used a Motive Products power bleeder with alcohol to test the system. Since this was my first foray into any of this stuff, the alcohol just ran out several spots around the wheels. I removed the plate over the master and found a trace of alcohol in the bowls.
The northern winter in Wisconsin took over and the project went on hiatus until this weekend. I looked into the master and find bright red surface rust in both bowls. What is the best way to remove this rust so I don't contaminate the system?
Second question: When re-installing the master cylinder (No Power brakes) I pushed the "rod" from inside the firewall into the rubber sleeve and pushed the master on and bolted it. Was this correct? Should I have done something else to fit the rod????
Thanks again!!!!!! Joe
The northern winter in Wisconsin took over and the project went on hiatus until this weekend. I looked into the master and find bright red surface rust in both bowls. What is the best way to remove this rust so I don't contaminate the system?
Second question: When re-installing the master cylinder (No Power brakes) I pushed the "rod" from inside the firewall into the rubber sleeve and pushed the master on and bolted it. Was this correct? Should I have done something else to fit the rod????
Thanks again!!!!!! Joe
#2
Drifting
I think I would be going for a new master cylinder. I am not sure that you can get rid of the rust with out rebuilding the master cylinder.
Last edited by DSR; 02-19-2017 at 04:09 PM.
#3
Intermediate
Before you decide on replacing the master cylinder give this a try. I found rust in my single master cylinder when I got the car home after purchase. I siphoned out the old brake fluid with a turkey baster and scrubbed the interior of the cylinder with a pad and used new brake fluid to extract the contaminated fluid. Did that about three times and refilled with DOT3. No more rust.
#4
Drifting
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I hooked up the bleeder pump with 15lbs of air pressure and it held for an hour.
#5
Race Director
I think you wrote you already rebuilt the master cylinder...and the reservoirs should have been thoroughly washed out....which as stated above...usually wipes out. But sometimes it is actually rust scale. And a more aggressive action might need to be taken.
Not knowing if you want to spend more time on the master cylinder and possibly another kit...BUT...with the master cylinder completely disassembled...you can wash it out very well and either media blast it in the reservoirs...which will require a VERY THOROUGH washing, blowing out and cleaning NUMEROUS times to make sure every speck of medal has been removed.
OR...soaking it in Evaporust or CLR or a de-rusting solution that may paint and body supply stores have on had to prep steel.
It may then require s light hone on the cylinder in the master cylinder when done to get it cleaned out.
AS for how you attached the master cylinder....I do it the same way. I leave the rod attached to the brake pedal and install the new master cylinder as you described.
DUB
Not knowing if you want to spend more time on the master cylinder and possibly another kit...BUT...with the master cylinder completely disassembled...you can wash it out very well and either media blast it in the reservoirs...which will require a VERY THOROUGH washing, blowing out and cleaning NUMEROUS times to make sure every speck of medal has been removed.
OR...soaking it in Evaporust or CLR or a de-rusting solution that may paint and body supply stores have on had to prep steel.
It may then require s light hone on the cylinder in the master cylinder when done to get it cleaned out.
AS for how you attached the master cylinder....I do it the same way. I leave the rod attached to the brake pedal and install the new master cylinder as you described.
DUB
Last edited by DUB; 02-19-2017 at 06:58 PM.
#6
Team Owner
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Tear down the MC and soak the MC in white vinegar for a half day or so. Rinse with water and re-assemble with a little brake fluid coating.
#7
Melting Slicks
Wash out with alcohol and disassemble the MC and soak it in a mixture of Molasses and water, (1 Molasses and 9 water) for a week.
Wash with hot water and blow dry with air pressure.
IT WILL COME OUT SPOTLESS!
Wash with hot water and blow dry with air pressure.
IT WILL COME OUT SPOTLESS!
Last edited by Roger Walling; 02-20-2017 at 09:42 AM.
#10
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This was my first thought when I read the original post. Non-intrusive and easy to do. What I would personally do if it were mine.....
#12
Race Director
DUB
#13
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I have used it, but usually it takes overnight or longer, depending on the degree of rust. In my engine block, I left it in for about 10 days, IIRC. Then neutralized with washing soda.