1957 corvette might be matching#s
#21
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just got back from work . you guys know your stuff. that picture is it. the guy who owned it never said original and i didn't buy it thinking it was i bought it because i loved the looks and wanted it . they just delivered it the other day that's when i started looking at numbers he did tell me it was a fuelie to begin with he owned it 17 years and said when he bought it the fuel injection system was in the trunk if i can figure out how to post pictures i'll post block numbers and linkage and any thing else . by the way what do you mean by no block vin derivative. thanks zano
#22
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actually he said it was an original 4 speed and the shifter is the original shifter. he told me these things after i purchased it . so he had no reason to lie but i never ask if it was original block but he did say it was originally 283/283 horse 4 speed fuelie radio/heater delete and said that all after i purchased it.
#24
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i have no idea how to post pictures if someone has a # i can text pictures to and they can post i have block numbers linkage pictures and fuel injection #. and anything else that may help. thanks zano
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Mint 66 (02-21-2017)
#26
Drifting
If the car indeed has a bona fide 1957 T10, the "veracity meter" gets a big kick on the PLUS side - that transmission is a $7500+ piece and is often removed from auction cars in favor of later T10s.
#27
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actually he said shifter is original never said about tranny . do you happen to know where #s are i'll go take a picture of them. just got title today he had titled in Arizona previously California
#29
Melting Slicks
I saw the car at Barrett but didn't really pay any attention to it, it was on display over in the dark area along the side of the tent, couldn't really see much in the poor lighting. I would guess the price pretty much indicates that it is not an original FI car. Can you post a picture of the accelerator lever that is attached to the firewall? FI cars used a different lever than the carb cars, and those FI levers are hard to source.
#33
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2023 C1 of the Year Finalist - Modified
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Zano, the case for your T10 should be cast iron with an aluminum tailshaft housing.
On the rear face of the cast iron case, upper right hand corner there should be a stamp starting with a W followed by a letter indicating month of manufacture, and a 1, 2, or 3 indicting work shift. Since your car was built on or about July 9, 1957, the letter should be Probably D, E, or F. G (July) would most likely be too late.
On the rear face of the cast iron case, upper right hand corner there should be a stamp starting with a W followed by a letter indicating month of manufacture, and a 1, 2, or 3 indicting work shift. Since your car was built on or about July 9, 1957, the letter should be Probably D, E, or F. G (July) would most likely be too late.
#37
I saw the car at Barrett but didn't really pay any attention to it, it was on display over in the dark area along the side of the tent, couldn't really see much in the poor lighting. I would guess the price pretty much indicates that it is not an original FI car. Can you post a picture of the accelerator lever that is attached to the firewall? FI cars used a different lever than the carb cars, and those FI levers are hard to source.
Interesting detail about the accelerator lever. Sounds like a valid clue to original status probably only known to a very knowledgable few. Impressive !!
#38
Melting Slicks
The OP owner needs to look up inside the trunk at the left rear fender to see if the radio antenna hole has been filled. There are many radio delete cars that have been made that way to avoid the expense of sourcing a restored wonderbar radio and the very rare and pricey power pack for the radio. Simply fill the hole in the fender prior to paint, and put a radio delete plate in the dash, and presto, you just saved a couple grand!!
I have sold many original radio delete plates and still have a few left, along with the heater delete plates. Heaters are not as expensive as radio's but with correct cables and defrost box, probably talking well over $500 for correct heater settup.
I have sold many original radio delete plates and still have a few left, along with the heater delete plates. Heaters are not as expensive as radio's but with correct cables and defrost box, probably talking well over $500 for correct heater settup.
#40
Drifting