[C2] C2 327 300HP Carburetor Advice
#1
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C2 327 300HP Carburetor Advice
Hi. I purchased my 1966 327 300HP last September and it has some serious carburetor issues. I'm looking to buy a new one and need some help to make sure I get a decent one. Here's what I'd like to end up with:
1) Electric choke
2) Won't stall when hot at a stop light
3) Plenty of power
4) Will fit under my stock hood on top of my Edelbrock Performer EPS 27011 intake manifold
Thanks in advance for the help.
1) Electric choke
2) Won't stall when hot at a stop light
3) Plenty of power
4) Will fit under my stock hood on top of my Edelbrock Performer EPS 27011 intake manifold
Thanks in advance for the help.
#2
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Get the Edelbrock 625 CFM carb that matches with the manifold. It's so easy. Dennis
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Reeseb (02-22-2017)
#3
No 625 CFM that I can see, 650 CFM number 1806 with electric choke.
How about telling us what you have now and why you dont want to correct the issues you are having now which may or may not be related to the carburetor.
How about telling us what you have now and why you dont want to correct the issues you are having now which may or may not be related to the carburetor.
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Reeseb (02-22-2017)
#4
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Here are some pics. It currently has a Holly of 4bbl but I don't know which one. There is no choke and that's a huge issue. A mechanic said someone cut off part of the carb to get it to fit under the hood and that's how the choke got ruined. I don't know what's up.
Another problem it has is it spits oil out of the valve cover. I'd love to solve that problem, too. I have the original intake manifold and valve covers and would go that route, if it made sense to.
Thanks for the input. I appreciate it. It's a beautiful car and it would be nice nice be able to enjoy driving it. Currently, it's not much fun to drive - especially around town when it stalls at every stoplight.
Another problem it has is it spits oil out of the valve cover. I'd love to solve that problem, too. I have the original intake manifold and valve covers and would go that route, if it made sense to.
Thanks for the input. I appreciate it. It's a beautiful car and it would be nice nice be able to enjoy driving it. Currently, it's not much fun to drive - especially around town when it stalls at every stoplight.
#5
Typically the airhorn which contains the choke blade is cut off for racing purposes. In addition the airhorn had the list # on it which would have told us what carburetor you currently have. What is the height of the aircleaner from where it sits on the carburetor to the top of the lid?. Assuming there is no clearance issue the easiest thing to do is install another Holly 650 CFM vacuum secondary with electric choke. The Edelbrock web site says your manifold will not fit under a stock Corvette hood so the prior owner may have cut the airhorn to force the carburetor to fit.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/h...783c/overview/
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/h...783c/overview/
Last edited by MelWff; 02-22-2017 at 03:02 PM.
#6
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Typically the airhorn which contains the choke blade is cut off for racing purposes. In addition the airhorn had the list # on it which would have told us what carburetor you currently have. What is the height of the aircleaner from where it sits on the carburetor to the top of the lid?. Assuming there is no clearance issue the easiest thing to do is install another Holly 650 CFM vacuum secondary with electric choke. The Edelbrock web site says your manifold will not fit under a stock Corvette hood so the prior owner may have cut the airhorn to force the carburetor to fit.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/h...783c/overview/
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/h...783c/overview/
So, it sounds like I need and new intake manifold and carburetor. Any suggestions there? Should I go stock since I have the intake and valve covers? That would solve the blow by problem, but I hear the modern carbs are better. If I went with a modern carb, how do I solve the blow by problem?
#7
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You can search this forum on how to go about it. Lot's of info here.
#8
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Thanks, Mike. So what I have now doesn't work. I need to decide which route to go: modern or stock. I have the stock valve cover and intake manifold. Does it make more sense to go stock or are the modern parts much better, making it worth it to go that route?
#9
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It looks to be a original carb that has been butchered up. I would get anther 600 CFM Holley re-use those front and rear fuel bowls to reuse the factory hard line
#10
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Are sure the engine is a 327 and not a 350. If you don't have the rear crankcase breather, it's a good chance it's a 350 and that will effect your choice of manifolds. What is the stamp pad numbers and the casting number at the back of the block? I may be headed down the wrong road, but clarification is necessary I believe. Dennis
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I have have always liked the edelbrock carbs patterned after Carter's I believe. I have a edelbrock carb (not sure of cfm) on a stock aluminum 340 intake. I would think you can run a edelbrock 600 cfm on your edelbrock intake and have a good running easy to set up system. Your air cleaner seems pretty thick, you should be able to find a basic chrome base and top and then run a 2" thick (max) air cleaner and clear your hood. Or find one with a drop base.
Hi. I purchased my 1966 327 300HP last September and it has some serious carburetor issues. I'm looking to buy a new one and need some help to make sure I get a decent one. Here's what I'd like to end up with:
1) Electric choke
2) Won't stall when hot at a stop light
3) Plenty of power
4) Will fit under my stock hood on top of my Edelbrock Performer EPS 27011 intake manifold
Thanks in advance for the help.
1) Electric choke
2) Won't stall when hot at a stop light
3) Plenty of power
4) Will fit under my stock hood on top of my Edelbrock Performer EPS 27011 intake manifold
Thanks in advance for the help.
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Reeseb (02-22-2017)
#12
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Are sure the engine is a 327 and not a 350. If you don't have the rear crankcase breather, it's a good chance it's a 350 and that will effect your choice of manifolds. What is the stamp pad numbers and the casting number at the back of the block? I may be headed down the wrong road, but clarification is necessary I believe. Dennis
Thanks.
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That looks good to me. How correct do you want the car to be? If real correct, then put the factory parts on, (manifold, crankcase breather, PCV, oil fill tube) get a replacement carb, and drive on. Dennis
Last edited by Bluestripe67; 02-22-2017 at 04:44 PM.
#14
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Is the stock choke electric or vacuum?
Last edited by Reeseb; 02-22-2017 at 04:57 PM.
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I'd really like to have it stock. Maybe I should go that route. the original carbs sure are expensive, however. I wonder if the one I have is original. If so, maybe I can buy the missing parts or send it in to get repaired and rebuilt.\
Is the stock choke electric or vacuum?
Is the stock choke electric or vacuum?
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Reeseb (02-22-2017)
#16
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So I learned a lot today. Thanks everyone for your help!
I think there is a good chance that the carburetor on the car is the original since the engine and transmission are numbers matching. Someone cut off the air horn, so there is no way to tell if it is period correct. Can anyone tell me if a carb shop can repair the carb by adding the air horn and missing choke parts? Any suggestions about who to send it to?
I think there is a good chance that the carburetor on the car is the original since the engine and transmission are numbers matching. Someone cut off the air horn, so there is no way to tell if it is period correct. Can anyone tell me if a carb shop can repair the carb by adding the air horn and missing choke parts? Any suggestions about who to send it to?
#17
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I wonder if the one I have is original. If so, maybe I can buy the missing parts or send it in to get repaired and rebuilt.\
Is the stock choke electric or vacuum?[/QUOTE]
I'll bet the carb you have is not stock/original, but above and beyond that, it's been butchered to the point of no return with part of the air horn cut off that supports the choke valve. If you want to see what the original choke system is like, do a Google search or hit some Vette parts seller's web catalog. Dennis
Is the stock choke electric or vacuum?[/QUOTE]
I'll bet the carb you have is not stock/original, but above and beyond that, it's been butchered to the point of no return with part of the air horn cut off that supports the choke valve. If you want to see what the original choke system is like, do a Google search or hit some Vette parts seller's web catalog. Dennis
#18
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I'll bet its a correct 3810 maybe not original to the car but a real one. if he doesn't care about numbers and wants a electric choke I would buy a off the self Holley 600 CFM carb add the original front and rear fuel bowls to reuse the factory hard steel line. wire in the choke and drive on. I don't think there is no way to attach a air horn. and whats the point. your going to have to cut up anther holley to do so.
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I'd really like to have it stock. Maybe I should go that route. the original carbs sure are expensive, however. I wonder if the one I have is original. If so, maybe I can buy the missing parts or send it in to get repaired and rebuilt.\
Is the stock choke electric or vacuum?
Is the stock choke electric or vacuum?
So I learned a lot today. Thanks everyone for your help!
I think there is a good chance that the carburetor on the car is the original since the engine and transmission are numbers matching. Someone cut off the air horn, so there is no way to tell if it is period correct. Can anyone tell me if a carb shop can repair the carb by adding the air horn and missing choke parts? Any suggestions about who to send it to?
I think there is a good chance that the carburetor on the car is the original since the engine and transmission are numbers matching. Someone cut off the air horn, so there is no way to tell if it is period correct. Can anyone tell me if a carb shop can repair the carb by adding the air horn and missing choke parts? Any suggestions about who to send it to?
First, that's a real nice looking C2 you have there.
Second, as you probably know, the folks here are sup[er helpful and knowledgeable. In my case alone, I have been saved a ton of wasted effort, money, and frustration by just asking.
Last, your carb. Yours has obviously been messed with and to who knows what level. If it's dying at every stop (even when warmed up) and you're not a carb guy (who is anymore?), I would get a replacement and have it gone through by one the pros. You can get a recommendation here.
If you're going for original appearance, they are not that expensive. I bought one (a Holley 2818-1 - correct for my '65) off of the parts for sale forum here for a tad over $200 and it's a great unit. Note that it is not correctly date-coded for my car, so if I'm going for judging then I need to keep looking.
Also, if going for original appearance you'll be needing the whole air cleaner thing, but if you have a high-rise (non-original) intake manifold, it won't fit, so you gotta work your way through that, too.
As far as the oil coming out of your breathers, you do not have the correct crankcase ventilation as OEM for your car, as your car did not come with breather caps on the valve covers originally. So you gotta figure out what kind of breather setup you have there. If you have an aftermarket intake, you may have dead-ended your oil breather can in the lifter valley.
Getting back to basics - what engine block do you have? Look on the driver's side just past the valve covers and read off the 7 digit number there. It might end in "870", or "174" if it's a 327.
#20
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I'll bet the carb you have is not stock/original, but above and beyond that, it's been butchered to the point of no return with part of the air horn cut off that supports the choke valve. If you want to see what the original choke system is like, do a Google search or hit some Vette parts seller's web catalog. Dennis
Thanks, Nowhere Man. Everything else has been shown to be original on the car, so I'm thinking the carb is too. It's a shame it was destroyed. The car was passed down to the owner's son, who didn't take very good care of it.
I like your plan. I'll have to either use the original intake manifold or buy a new one because the one I have 'won't fit under a stock hood'. What do you suggest?