64Corvette

Can the trailing arms be left on a 64 and the bearing housing and rear spindle removed and serviced? Looking at trying to get the trailing arm bolt out and back in looks to be nearly impossible unless maybe the body was jacked up, and I really don't want to do that. Getting lazy in my old age!!
The busingings I believe are alright, I am not sure the trailing arms were set up right! I just had the rear end rebuilt and would like the bearings checked and spindle checked before having it aligned.

Suggestions are appreciated.

65 Pro Vette

They can be done with the trailing arm still in place. But it is a lot easier to remove it and rebuild the arm and the bushing upfront. You don't have to lift the body to get those bolts out.

64Corvette

After asking the question I went to You Tube and watched a vedio where he started the trailing arm bolt into the hole with dental floss. It did not show how the bolt was pulled through the trailing arm. Do you continue to pull the bolt through the trailing arm and frame with the dental floss? I guess I am concerned with getting the TR bolt back in place. I can handle the rest of it. Thanks!

Tmichaelson

Dental floss works and thin strong wire works also. I used anti seize in the bushing hole and on the bolt shaft which eased the bolt to slide. I found however I had to push/and nudge the bolt through from the inside frame hole for the TA with a forceps or long needle nose plyers as you pull floss or wire from the outside. You are working in extremely tight space on the inside of the TA . If you can get the frame hole perfectly aligned with the bushing hole things can go smoothly. Dental floss can and will break by pulling to hard without said alignment. Time, patience and a good light source are required.

Basic64

I just installed my offset trailing arms last night. The old arms came off surprisingly easy. I also used the dental floss method to insert the bolts and it worked well. I would agree it's much easier to rebuild the arms off the car then reinstall.

Avispa

Remove the axle half shaft, disconnect the lower link from the bearing support, disconnect the spring and you can remove the entire trailing arm just by twisting the TA assembly so the pivot bolt slides right out (after you clear the hole on the outer side of the frame). No dental floss required.

TCracingCA

Before you start taking this car apart, let us know if the bolt heads are on the outer side or the inner side, as a whole batch of 1964 cars had their bolts installed backwards, where you either have to cut the body fiberglass or lift the body.

64Corvette

The bolts heads are on the inside. Thanks

Critter1

On 63 and 64, because of drum brakes, it's not absolutely necessary to remove the entire trailing arm.
Unlike 65 and later with disc brakes, you can remove the nuts that attach the support to the trailing arm on 63-64.

If the trailing arm bushings look good, I would not remove the trailing arms unless you want to replace the bushings.

TCracingCA

That is good! They are in, in the right direction. Go ahead and proceed.

Watch out that you don't crack the rear brake caliper mounts. Also if trying to use the knocker on the spindle, get full thread engagement! On a press I put the big nut or a used one on backed by something threaded to support the pressure or force on the spindle full threads.

Paint your shims with a quick spray one color for the right set inside, another for the right set outside, and the opposite side. so you know what goes where and how many.

Mark your bearing shims also! Don't throw the race and old bearing away yet, till you measure those, to compare to the new.

When you get the arm off, check the bushing square cage to make sure it hasn't been pried on and bent in the past. A good time to straighten it all out.

Don't buy budget local auto parts store foreign job bearings.

Trying to think of tips, all of the other guys won't think of!