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I started up my blue 63 Fuelie just now. It started just fine, then quit abruptly, now it just turns over and won't fire at all. It had been running well last time I started it, but it had been sitting for two weeks or so.
I thought maybe the fuel injection cable broke, but it looks fine. Before I start checking everything, anybody got an idea what else might cause such a sudden failure?
if you have spark, then my best guess is the pump drive...
if you haven't already, disconnect the cable and casing from the distributor and remove them. then slip the cable alone back in place (yes, it will work... ) and have someone crank the engine while you watch to see if the cable turns. this will let you know that the distributor cross shaft is not stripped.
beyond that, the only other thing that i can think of that could go bad suddenly is the linkage connecting the main metering diaphragm to the spill valve, or the diaphragm itself.
if you have spark, then my best guess is the pump drive...
if you haven't already, disconnect the cable and casing from the distributor and remove them. then slip the cable alone back in place (yes, it will work... ) and have someone crank the engine while you watch to see if the cable turns. this will let you know that the distributor cross shaft is not stripped.
beyond that, the only other thing that i can think of that could go bad suddenly is the linkage connecting the main metering diaphragm to the spill valve, or the diaphragm itself.
lol... got to be cap/rotor problem then... but, try your new distributor, it must be nice to have a spare....
Bill
Forgot about the oil line, tach cable, tooth matching, and all that other stuff. Pain in the...to change the distributor... First I'll swap the points and rotor. If that doesn't work, I'll borrow a cap from another car...
The cap on this car is an original I had on for Duntov judging and PV. At 54 years old, it could well be nearing the end of its days...I should also keep a spare cap, those are what's really hard to find...
The "spare" distributor was one I got with the junk Rochester fuel-unit that I converted to EFI. It was a mess and I had it rebuilt as a spare.
If you find that you do NOT have an ignition problem, my money is on the little anti-siphon check valve in the fuel meter. They have been known to lose the check ball, in which case the engine won't run. And they have been know to blow completely out, in which case the engine won't run.
If you find that you do NOT have an ignition problem, my money is on the little anti-siphon check valve in the fuel meter. They have been known to lose the check ball, in which case the engine won't run. And they have been know to blow completely out, in which case the engine won't run.
Jim
Thanks Jim, tomorrow I'll change out the distributor parts and if there's still problem I'll give that some consideration. This unit only has about 1,500 miles since Jerry Bramlett restored it, so I'm not expecting that there'll be an injection issue.
Thanks Jim, tomorrow I'll change out the distributor parts and if there's still problem I'll give that some consideration. This unit only has about 1,500 miles since Jerry Bramlett restored it, so I'm not expecting that there'll be an injection issue.
Mike
Now that I know a little more, I don't expect an FI issue either.
I would disconnect one spider leg at a nozzle and hook up a timing light. I'd then have someone turn the ignition key to start while I pointed the light at the open spider leg.
If you see gas trickling out of the spider leg after a few seconds of cranking, then the problem isn't likely in the injection system. If you see the timing light flashing at regular intervals, then the problem isn't likely to be ignition related.
Regardless of the outcome of this test, you're certainly welcome to phone me for further advice.
I re-checked using the timing light, per Jerry's suggestion. Didn't get spark or fuel out of spider...What the heck?
Then I noticed that the bare fuel cable had popped out of the distributor. Placed it back in the distributor and cranked the motor - got fuel out of the spider...
Put in new distributor cap, points, rotor, condenser and kitchen sink. I don't know which was bad, but don't care, all is good now. It started right up and runs like new.
I re-checked using the timing light, per Jerry's suggestion. Didn't get spark or fuel out of spider...What the heck?
Then I noticed that the bare fuel cable had popped out of the distributor. Placed it back in the distributor and cranked the motor - got fuel out of the spider...
Put in new distributor cap, points, rotor, condenser and kitchen sink. I don't know which was bad, but don't care, all is good now. It started right up and runs like new.
I re-checked using the timing light, per Jerry's suggestion. Didn't get spark or fuel out of spider...What the heck?
Then I noticed that the bare fuel cable had popped out of the distributor. Placed it back in the distributor and cranked the motor - got fuel out of the spider...
Put in new distributor cap, points, rotor, condenser and kitchen sink. I don't know which was bad, but don't care, all is good now. It started right up and runs like new.
03-19-2017, 07:28 PM
63 L84 quit running...
) and have someone crank the engine while you watch to see if the cable turns. this will let you know that the distributor cross shaft is not stripped.
