Daren Schneider

As a firm believer of If it is not broke dont fix it, I have pulled out my 67 dash cluster and sent out for service. All the current 36 yr old bulbs work and I have lubed the speedo and tach cables (and they look fine). The tach and speedo stopped working 5 years ago, I lubed up cables but it did not help. What are the musts that I should do as I await for the dash cluster to come back. Am I nuts not to replace the speedo and tach cables as everything is open. How do I test the bulbs without the cluster ground. Should I replace the original condensors back behind the cluster?


[Modified by Daren Schneider, 9:18 AM 10/29/2003]

ctjackster

as for testing the dangling bulbs, just put the headlight switch back on the harness, pull it out one stop (for park/dash lights) and touch each metal base of the bulb holder (the whole thing is metal) to the nearest exposed frame metal, or run a wire from frame ground and brush it up against each bulb socket.

JohnZ

Don't worry about the radio capacitors; if yours are there, you're miles ahead of most guys. They aren't reproduced, and even used originals cost a fortune. :thumbs:

toddalin

Just replace the bulbs with a new set. Sure they may work now, but they are old. What are you going to do in 6 months when one fails?

Tom Piper

I agree with JohnZ on the non-electrolytic capacitors that are used in several places (voltage regulator, flasher, coil, blower motor, etc.) to eliminate generated noise in the radio.

But, if you have your radio out for service, it is a wise idea to replace the internal electrolytic capacitors in the radio. Electrolytic capacitors frequently go bad with age -- even if never used.
Unfortunately, this is not a do-it-yourself project for most people. The disassemby of most midyear radios to change these capacitors is not trivial -- I had to make a drawing of where each wire went so I could make sure it went back together correctly. There is no multiple pin connector on the circuit board that simply plugs in.

As far as testing the bulbs go, I pull the bulbs and test them with a bench power supply. However, you should be able to use a 9 volt battery and a couple of wires to see if they work.

Tom Piper


[Modified by Tom Piper, 8:34 AM 10/30/2003]

Vette66AirCoupe

I'm anticipating pulling my cluster out for restoration as well. I assume you removed your steering wheel but did you have to do anything else with the steering column? And what about replacing the tach and speedo cables? I've been wondering the same thing. Does anybody have any comments?

Kid_Again

...i wouldn't know for sure, but from what i rad here, if you did not use a special cable lubricant for the tach and speedo, you have probably just made it worse for yourself as the chassis lube you may have used gets hard over time

...now that the guage cluster is out, check the quality of the dash wiring harness - ANY indication of brittle insulation or bare wires is cause enought ot drop $350 for a new wiring harness...also check to see if you have any holes in the firewall that need plugging, check the parking brake light switch, etc, etc

Tom Piper

I pull the entire steering column.

Even though it would be easier to change the speed and tach cables with the cluster out, it isn't that hard to do it with the cluster in place. I can unscrew the speedo cable from the back of my cluster and drop it down to work on it -- and, I could pull the entire speedo cable housing out and replace it with the cluster in place.

Tom Piper

Daren Schneider

In pulling my dash cluster out. I dropped the steering column 2 inches. Ran the long bolts to hold the dash and one by one (with 4 inches of clearance) labeled each bulb I took out. I know I could of made it easier, but it took me 2 hours - 1 hour fiquring out how to drop the steering column - 1 hour to remove dash cluster. (I did hit my head about 6 times on the turn signal).
:cheers:

Vette66AirCoupe

Perhaps you can save me some "figuring time"? Do you have any tips for expediting the process? :confused:

Daren Schneider

Remove 4 inverted bolts under steering column. In the engine bay remove 2 bolts around the steering column that attach to the firewall. Loosen 2 bolts that act like hose clamps on the column. No need to loosen any bolts near the rag.

Hang 10. Go for it. I put this off for 5 years. :cheers:


[Modified by Daren Schneider, 3:30 PM 10/30/2003]

JOliver

The two capacitors on the back of the cluster are being reproduced.
and I know where


Jason
VetteInstruments@aol.com

ctjackster

well that sounds so very CIA-ish! You can also source any one of these capacitors from LIC - could you get them cheaper somewhere else? Maybe, I haven't compared prices. But LIC seems to have all of this stuff, correct (and if not they say so) in one place.